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Lodestone

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Everything posted by Lodestone

  1. I'm confused as to the correlation between learning to climb multi-pitch and climbing "longer sport climb"(?). Not that learning to climb multi-pitch needs any explanation. I'd suggest hooking up with someone that is proficient at multi-pitch and learning what you can. That might be initiated by posting on this forum with a request to do some multi-pitch at Beacon or Gandalph's Grip here in Portland. Today would have been a great day for that one. Kind of regret not seeing this earlier. Chad
  2. This is a nice book of you can find it. Chad
  3. In the winter time I drive 25 minutes (once a week) to my favorite gym. I wouldn't drive any more than that unless I had no other options. Chad
  4. Just looking at the numbers, I don't know why anyone would choose a gray Supercam over a #2 C4. The gray Supercam is heavier (6.5oz versus 5.5oz) and has less range (1.65"-2.5" versus 1.46"-2.55"). Chad
  5. If I were starting from scratch, I'd strongly consider the new Wild Country Helium cams. I have a set of and most frequently use C4's and am quite happy with them. From the sound of it, you prefer U-stem cams. Powercams are top notch and have a long history of happy users. I used the new Wired Bliss cams once and didn't notice that they weren't Metolius until Bill pointed it out to me. Have you read this comparison?: http://cascadeclimbers.com/blog/2010/10/12/small-cams-review-by-bill-coe/ Chad
  6. Yeah, it is a bummer. The Spectre's that I have fit me perfectly. I didn't think much of their rubber but that's easy to fix. Now if I can only find a pair of JB's in my size. Chad
  7. Save for TR-soling with a grigri as part if the system, I can't see a quick and easy way to switch over to a rappel. I use a pair of Petzl ascenders and have the same problem. Chad
  8. It appears that most online vendors of Acopa shoes are either out or only have the unusual sizes. Locally, Next Adventure, OMC, and REI have stopped carrying the brand. I'm getting the impression that Acopa is not producing shoes any longer. Anybody have the full story? Chad
  9. Rider, you might post a similar message on the reader-board at the Portland Rock Gym. I've done that in the past and met a couple long term partners as a result. Chad
  10. That's exactly what I did on the first resole. Nice shoe but I wasn't impressed with the LaSportiva rubber. Chad
  11. Thanks for the input guys. Bill, what's holding you back from lovin' the JB's? Wrong size? I really think I'd like those shoes as my Spectre's fit me so perfectly. Funny about the TC Pro's, my S.O. tried them on at REI and the first thing she mentioned was how uncomfortable the tongue is. Hah! Chad
  12. Thanks for the input OW. I have a pair of TC Pros and like how they perform but got them a little too small. I'm intrigued by the JB's. Like you said, it's a guessing game with the sizing as nobody stocks hightops around Portland (save for the TC Pro's). Chad
  13. It looks like there's two pairs from Five Ten, Grandstone and Anasazi. Acopa JB's, and LaSportiva TC Pro's. Any other currently made hightop out there I should be aware of? Does anyone here have experience with either the of the Five Ten shoes mentioned above? thanks Chad
  14. Yes, I'll say hello if I see you out there. Chad
  15. 1. Elbow. Medial and lateral. 2. See above. 3. It felt like the area was bruised. Doing the PT described in this articled has helped me go from having a bad case of LE to having it be almost gone. http://rockandice.com/articles/how-to-climb/article/951-elbows-and-wrists-tendonitis-and-tendonosis Chad
  16. It's seen sporadic activity over the years but there's more development potential. One thread on the topic is probably sufficient :-) Chad
  17. That's great to hear and was much needed. Is the last leg of the road in the same condition or was that graded too? Chad
  18. What's the deal with the name change? I still call it grasslands but people don't seem to be doing that these days. Chad
  19. I'd suggest doing an eBay search for said ice axe and set it up to get e-mail alerts when any are put up for auction. Chad
  20. 36 foot walls is kind of short for a modern climbing gym. Chad
  21. There was a thread about this gadget a couple weeks ago here on CC. Chad
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