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Alex- You are right about it being about 20 years, I remember when you came out from the East Coast - and got me stoked about Waterfall Ice. Probably global warming, Alaska is in a melt down. Now you know why I delayed my entry into this aspect of climbing, with the Washington Ice being only a few days per season, and the investment in seasonal gear. Thanks again for your work on the book - good job! At this point in the season, you are correct - maybe they can get an update from local ice guru, Monty Piton. Otherwise, it's head to the Issaquah SR 900 cliff to scratch and claw.

https://nwfootankle.com/foot-health/drill/3-problems/34-sesamoiditis

If you need to get out of the Park completely, the drive into Palm Springs is only about 45minutes. The Air Museum, or Patton Tank museum may not be interesting to a six yr old, but the Tram to San Jacinto is cool. I also remember a water park in PS - if it's still there, that had a rock climb TR wall. There are some cool hikes in JT Park to gold mines, but again may be boring - the drive up to Keys View is ok, but may not show much of the Fault. I've driven up to several hundred feet of it down in the valley near the town of Desert Hot Springs.

Rafael: Great info - I second all of it!

Jens - You really nailed it, good climbing. And a great write-up, you should send in to R&I!

OK Kids - anyone game? Check out Snoqualmie Falls! Nice stoke. I'm actually laid up with a severe groin pull (bummer). This is your Westside Ice climbing season (3 days) - go for it! I'm sure Franklin Falls is in if Snoqualmie Falls is Fat - Google for "Snoqualmie Falls Frozen" for some cool images, or watch www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahSdi5Age88 Do I dare even mention Static Point or God Forbid " Infinite Bliss". Enjoy, Comrades!

Check out Amazon.com - search books, type in, "Washington Scramble Hikes" to see the following: 1. Washington Scrambles 2. 75 Scrambles in Washington 3. Falcon Guide on Washington Scrambles & Summits.

Parking at the school has worked for me the last couple times I was there - but you are right parking is limited and it was midweek.

They probably follow this website like the dude up at Static Point in the Monroe area (and enjoy the publicity), not much helps - even police reports. Maybe we could hire a pair of guys to stand guard with shotguns, pretending to be backwoods hunters ( notice I said pair - need a witness with camera). The notion of breaking all the windows when the train passes is probably correct - and then go through as many as you can. F---ing Dirt Bags. That sucks.

Hello Nick: Welcome to the Seattle area - your resume is pretty awesome and probably overkill for the Washington Cascades, although there is some good alpine climbing here. The reason you have only talked with a few regarding our "ice" availability is because it is very elusive and tentative here in Washington (It's one of those here today, gone tomorrow scenarios). Most of the good ice climbing is in British Columbia 5-16 hours drive from here, or Montana and Idaho. I'm not trying to disillusion you - maybe check out the books "Washington Ice" and "West Coast Ice", and you'll see what I'm saying. I'm actually very envious of your time spent in the Alaska Range - nice job! Bon Jour,

I agree with Pete_H and sprocket, the Methow area is a pretty neat place for Mtn Biking, Trails and Winter events with the best XC ski trail system in the lower 48. Not much in a Down Hill ski area - but there is a small bush league ski park at Loup Loup Pass, about 30 minute drive from Winthrop - the main tourist town. Fifteen minutes from Winthrop is Mazama - the closest thing to a small Mtn Village, and very close to The North Cascades. Try www.mvsta.com for all the local trail systems, or Google for websites at Sun Mountain or Winthrop, WA. If the Mt.Baker ski area looks close on the map - it is NOT in the Winter as HWY 20 is closed.

Two places come to mind that meet your need to be 30 minutes to a ski area, cheap to moderate rent and close to the back country are Cle Elum and Enumclaw (Snoqualmie Pass and Crystal Mtn/Rainier). Although, I don't see these as a "small mountain town" as you know them in Colorado. Your move would also need to be based on employment if needed - these towns are scarce on employment opportunities, depends what you are into.

I agree - " Last rays of light" is an incredible photo! And I like the gps track you overlaid on the route, very nice trip report. Thanks!

(UPDATE): Here is a rough translation of the final part of my conversation with the group leader - "The marking chalk was a mistake. We didn't think it through. The plan was to clean it up the same day but we postponed it to the weekend. Even though the paint has been partially cleaned off, we will return this weekend to see if we can clean up anything else and make sure everything is in order. Once again, we apologize for the mistake and we will work to avoid repeating it in the future". Here's a another rough translation: Spasibo za ponimaniye nashey ozabochennosti dlya otkrytom vozdukhe. I've probably had to much vodka. Cheers! p.s. For speed climbing - try the Marymoor Rock Spire in Redmond, near the Velodrome. No chalk paint please - just tape!

Thanks to SVM for signing in, and getting the word out to maybe those involved. Thanks also to JBP & Don for doing the new route work and cleaning up the rock. Maybe ACE has some non-toxic cleaner to make it easier. And thanks to the assholes for not spraying the name of each route and grade on rocks all over the Icicle. Oops, now I'm giving copy cats an idea.

Unbelievable! And I thought 'chalk' was bad. I've mentioned before that I've not been to Icicle Creek for a while - and I may need to go over and kick some ass.

The closest crag is the one Alex mentioned above on SR 900 toward Renton about 2 1/2 mi from I-90. A few good full rope length routes with TR chains. Good for endurance training, and not as boring as the plywood at home.

It's really to bad that this had to happen - the mentor/instructor or someone a bit more experienced should have been in charge and checked all the gear. Youngsters climbing assume that everything is a go. God Bless.

I'm back. "Where are you going? Your pack looks too big for a day hike..." This is amazing! I remember the same speech in the early nineties - what is going on? De-ja-vu. It's kinda like the Border questions - answer where and why simply, with the smallest of detail, as to not open another issue. Duh! My double rack (day pack) weighs over 30 lbs. I just awoke from my slumber and just wanted to lighten this up a bit, sorry. I'll be bailing also from the blog.

Sol: Thanks for the time and effort, and excellent/informative write-up. We need a few level heads to continue on with this process, and it is appreciated. So stay cool, hang in there and hopefully I can go over it with a few biers and you guys when I make it to Leavenworth. But, please pay attention to AlpineMonkey's input. (wow - 6 pages) Bonjour, James

Save the rent dinero and buy some used ones at Second Ascent in Ballard.

I haven't been climbing much in the last few years in The Icicle (healing and rehab), and have not realized that it has gotten this bad. It's to bad the masses discovered such an inspiring place - it almost sounds as bad as Vantage has gotten, in the late 80's and early 90's it was a heavily wooded area, and it took a lot of bushwhacking to find the good stuff. But that fire of several years back really opened the craigs and produced some more bouldering areas. Bummer!

You are right - May/June is possible, but unreliable. Goes to show you the Local's have an advantage to cherry pick the weather window for the right break. But it's important to not add to the risk when coming from afar and spending big bucks. True enough the trade routes get pretty busy by July and it becomes a cess pool like Everest - but it is truly an inspirational and even to some a spiritual mountain.

It sounds like we are re-arranging your whole trip - but MedicSandy has a good point, don't waste your time in the rat race of the Sea-Tac area. Google - 'Ashford, WA Lodging' for the whole thing. And it's only a 75 mile drive 1 1/2 hr. You may even be able to buy fuel or last minute supplies; if not you can stop at the Tacoma REI on the way as you head south on I-5, east on 516 to Parkland, and just a few miles to Hwy 7, then it's a direct shot into Ashford. Have a great trip!

Jake; PMI makes a nice dry half/twin (the best multiple use rope I've found) - it's the Verglas 8.1mm X 60M; at REI for $160 each.