obwan

I'll pass on my similar first trip report to Skaha in the early 90's. We were looking for the climber's bivy area on Crown Land, and ended up on the local Tribal Reservation.

This advice has been addressed before on this site - maybe surf around a bit. But the short version is to get a copy of "Freedom of the Hills", and a good buddy - and go for it. A lot of self-taught climbers on this site are still alive.

I second that!

I agree - most hoses freeze as well as the mouth piece. I've used Hot Gatorade in a thermos or Nalgene hard liter. The guides on Rainier won't even allow bladders or hoses even in the summer due to various failures . Someday I'll go into the story about waking up at 2am for my Rainier assault and having a couple quarts of Gatorade soaking my tent, pack and parka. duh.

As mentioned, there's some threads on this site that have come up with some trad favorites. There is also some good cracks at Tieton in the 5.7/8 range- and may be a bit drier (until it gets to cold). Also check into Mt.Erie - I haven't been up there since the new guide has been out, but usually has some good practice areas (sometimes has a good weather window). Ditto on Great Northern Slab.

Pretty wet of course this time of year. For a few cracks closer to Seattle, pretty short and not that great - try Chain Saw Wall at Exit 38 (Crack one with me 5.7). Also at Exit 32 (Lil' Si) is a short crack/arête on Repo I - First Things First 5.6 - not much on the West Side. There is a dirty crack on the left side of the SR 900 Rock near Issaquah, probably 5.6, also TR.

Great Photos!!

Thanks for doing the look-see. Welcome to the elusive Washington Ice - maybe go back in January, it has to be friggin' cold for awhile.

You need to see if Monty Piton (Lebenworth Ice Guru) knows anything that's current in the Icicle Canyon.

bullshit. I second that! eyesonice - To answer your original question, go to Mt. Baker.

Yeah - definitely way out of the way. It depends a lot on what/where you'll be working, mode of transportation - traffic and commute times are at their extreme worse in King County. Depending also on social life - most outlying areas don't qualify as any type of climbing community. As mentioned though, the Issaquah area is on the I-90 corridor, and easy access to the Pass for outdoor endeavors - again depends what you want to get done.

I'm with Alex - it is just not cold enough yet for the westside, although some places are coming in a bit sketchy though. Go east young grasshopper. I was just up at Rainier and Narada Falls at 4800ft is forming, but not real solid. Next week I may head up to the northside falls at the Carbon River entrance.

Unfortunately, mistakes are sometimes not to forgiving in rock climbing - I feel bad for those all involved, it's a helpless feeling to watch. RIP Tvash - you are right about the three times rule. I've done it myself when I let my guard down. The first error will usually get you by; the second error is when issues start compounding, and Maybe will get you by - And if not caught, it progresses to a third error; which is when the s--- hits the fan. That's why I call it the "3 strikes and your out rule", and can be very subtle. Sorry for the climber and family.

Explorer - I actually think you have gotten some fun and interesting advice so far. But you really need to contact FS, BLM, USGS and see who's in charge of that area ( especially if you are already involved with the FS) - also chat with some Oregon Mountaineer's that understand the local rules regarding new trails forming in a wilderness area, as well as the NO bolts issue. Others on this site have been down that path before and rather than a hero, you will end up a bum if you don't follow such bureaucracy rules. If you have made a cool discovery in an unknown area, then good for you and good luck.

Layton - now that's funny!

G-spotter, I liked your idea about Google Earth better! Being a newbie - he might not know about getting flamed on this site, not that we're climbing snobs or anything like that. Sorry, no bolts Pal.

Another troll for hidden treasure. I actually know Jack Shit, we together found the Renton Granite - so ve vill find it! Seriously - you'll have to go to the USGS folks, or you'll be prosecuted for putting in a new unauthorized trail system. Maybe it is the last secret.

Stoppers/nuts/slings and biners are obviously no BD; but you all have covered an issue on Cams that maybe should be kicked around in the beginning - full racks can get expensive.

You are correct - that place can fool ya, if you let your guard down.

Overall, I support your efforts and hard work of many on this website - where would be without it, even some of the personalities make it happen (both negative and positive). I have worked with several decades of climbers, and the most important factor is "respect" - the whole idea is let's make it fun and a learning experience. It's the only way we'll survive. Go for it!

Hey There: LittleJohn is correct - I too have had shoulder problems, and Kirby is the man ( he fixes other's mistakes), but both Kirby and Arntz are the best in the NW. I saw Kirby and he had some guy in his office all the way from Anchorage - and he almost laughed when I told him I had a torn rotor cuff. He said, yeah right - I've got my waiting room full of brick layers and sheetrockers that need shoulder surgery. This may be a long story but my diagnosis is that you don't need an expert , but better to follow up and find out. So, to continue my "trip report" to Kirby - I said Doc C'mon, it hurts like hell and I can't sleep at night, and can't even put on a shirt or reach for my wallet - not to mention I'm not able to belay. I told him I even taped my arm to my side with duct tape at night, as I turned around sleeping , the morning was hell - and insisted he take an Xray. Which he did and laughed again saying there was no tear - and I'm wining about it hurts like hell. He was even able to detect a previous "dislocation" and laughed again when I told him that was done 50 years ago in H.S. Gymnastics on the rings. And he says - I know your kind - what ever it was that caused the injury has healed, and by keeping it calm and resting - the shoulder has lost it's range of motion and built up scar tissue. I said, oh yeah - probably that Mtn bike wreck months ago and then I babied it. His diagnosis was, I had a classic "frozen shoulder", now I'm thinking this guy doesn't know Jack Shit - he said I can send you to a P.T. but the once a week stuff isn't the way to go. He sent me home with a couple of "door" stretches and said I needed to be consistent 2-3 times a day for a while - I said, how long - and he said some winers take six months, but if I was consistent and aggressive - maybe 4-6 months. I went home in great pain and called his office twice for pain killers, and he kept saying keep up the good effort. Basically, I knocked it out in 3 months and now don't even remember the pain. You can Google the "frozen shoulder" issue - I basically did two stretches. Reach to the top of door or sill and finger cling, like rock climbing and hold for awhile. And standing between the door with both hands on the door jam, lean inward. This long trip report is no bull - but it worked, he doesn't operate unless he has to. In fact my son, also had a bike accident and took the full force in a downhill crash taking out a Chevy Blazer with his shoulder - now that one was a torn rotator cuff, Kirby had to operate on and with great results. So, I wish you luck and as LittleJohn said, it is probably not requiring surgery or even torn if you are not losing sleep over it . Good Luck! p.s. This scenario will save you a bunch of dinero.

Now you are talking about a great descent - cool!

I have three grades that I use - sketchy, dicey, and heinous. I'm not sure where Scary fits in - but we'll give you the FA, as it was not a gimmee. Glad to see you are alive for the TR. I have lived here my whole life, and only rarely see the right conditions and temps that form ice at exit 38, such as "here today, gone tomorrow". Maybe some dinosaurs older than I can confirm.

It's a great descent on the Mtn Bike except for the oncoming cars. On a nice day, be sure to bring a camera - one of the best northside views of Rainier, as it is right in your face.

Hell - Snoq. Pass will be cold enough this weekend, as we get a few days of another cold snap.