obwan

Next one to do would be Ingalls Peak - a very good detailed TR, I'm sure most of us starting out have had those same issues. My old saying is " a good days climbing is when you go home with all of your toys and most of your hide"

All of the info stated here is right on, June is very sketchy on The Mountain - it's usually off&on monsoon storms. Over a 30year time frame, I've summited 3 out of 3 attempts, all in mid to end of July. Even our best local weathermen (both mountaineers) will state that our summer begins July 12th - so the best advice here is to change your plans, and it will help you achieve your goal. I measured success on 50% conditioning and 50% weather - the best information I have read is in Mike Gauthier's (previous climbing ranger) book on climbing Mount Rainier. Good Luck!

First, I'd like to congratulate you on your survival techniques and sticking with it. Next, a great trip report! This qualifies as a full epic climb - and I agree with most of the after thoughts, you can see that the "locals' have an advantage over visiting climbers. The weather and day-to-day conditions are the most difficult on The Mountain - even for the locals. Anyways- Good Job! LR is not a walk-up.

Great photos! Thanks for taking us there.

Nice trip report - you cheated the Wind Gods, and did a great job sneaking in between with the right window, Awesome, and congratulations! You are the envy of the many.

Good job guys - this qualifies as an epic adventure, good thing you all kept your head on straight. Congratulations!

Jason - you are correct, we probably need to let it go. It was also one of the best Mt. Rainier views.

Talk to Andy Fitz on this site - he's probably spent the most time in the Yakima/Tieton area.

This sounds bad - where/what is the legal stand for Matt P. And can AAC/WCC do anything with this situation, I guess it really is private property of Weyco. Jens is right, this would be a bummer loss to Washington climbing - being such a wet climate. I remember searching for this place in 89/90 and getting scooped by hunters. Weyco is slamming the wrong people. Basically, we're screwed because they don't give a crap.

Matt: You are right, Mclellan can be nasty in early season. One time I went up on a Memorial Day, and it turned into a full winter ascent.

Man - what a disaster, those that have a bee allergy can certainly die from it. Bummer.

I heard on the news that the avy victim has been found and will be recovered today, not sure when the trail will be open. It happened about three weeks ago, bummer for the family - but now, maybe there can be some closure. My condolences and sympathy.

The link just says the trail is closed. Has the body of the recent avalanche victim been recovered yet? Maybe try McClellan Butte trail - you'll hit some snow, no need to summit.

Darren - Thanks for the update, you can tell I haven't been up there in awhile.

Definitley a thumbs up! Nice folks and it's always appropriate to help out the locals - give them some business. Being a destination spot - it's hard to stay in business over there.

I have done the same, camping at Longmire - but the problem is , they don't open the gate to the Paradise Rd. until 9am?? or so. So the next time I camped on the snow field a mile in - no problem, except when it was pissin' rain upon waking and when I drove down to go get a real breakfast and hot coffee, the gate was closed - and got a lecture about staying up there and trying to get down early. So, the car nap may work - and I don't think it's an issue if you are not climbing above 10,000 ft; of course not my call. Give the Park a call and see what is acceptable.

Cool! At least it's better than Ivory soap.

Thanks for the tip - yes, it's $8 but no longer made by McNett ( probably low sales). McNett did pass along two sites that still have some: tenttrails.com and sheepleg.com I hate it when shipping is more than the product as in the case of moosejaw.com

What is the latest trend on washing ropes? I used to see a dry treatment wash in the past, but searching the web - I only find " Nikwax Rope Proof", and spendy $25. It basically is added to a clean rope to restore waterproofing. Has anyone used this product or have a better solution (no pun intended)?

Wow, really? I mean, MSR sells it as a fully featured 4-season expedition tent, and now you've got me looking at my Stardome in the closet (what it was sold as under Moss) and questioning its utility. Really gotta get my other 4-season tent in for repairs then. Sorry - looks like something got left out of my post. I meant to say that "here's a couple of 3/4 season tents that may do well". It's all in the guying down and snow bag anchors as mentioned. Moss tents were bomber.

At 41oz, this is considered a one season tent for light weight trail hiking - even the typical 3 season tent would be better for Rainier in July. If you want to go light- save your money and buy a bivy sack as mentioned above. tvashtarkenta says they blow away while up on the climb - I've seen that happen, when you return from the climb and everything is gone, it's pretty disturbing. I also awoke one night with lots of yelling and screaming going on - a guy got up to go pee and his girl friend in the flimsy tent was blown down the slippery slope toward a crevasse. Luckily someone tackled the tent and girl inside - not a good night, not to mention a ruined trip. In high winds of 50-60 mph, they need to be bomb proof.

Matt is correct. most light wt 3 season tents do not do well - mostly due to high winds, they will be shredded or flatened. Those that survive have been guy lined and anchored down well, with snow wall protection. Basically the main difference in 3 season vs 3-4 is the added pole structure and less mesh. Of course the extra poles add 1-1.5 lbs but may be worth it, as I have seen several tents go on Rainier. Some examples are the 3-4 season REI Arete ASL and MSR Fury. It's when you go to a full 4 season tent the cost is higher and the extra weight.

Dear PeakBeggar: Thanks for the honest and interesting trip report - Banff has been in my future for too long, I am inspired. I know what it's like when going to a new place without being with someone who's been there before. Good Job!

Montypiton - excellent report! Not good conditions - but a good report, thanks for the update.

He's not kidding or sandbaggin' you - see montypiton's latest post in the 'Ice Climbing Forum'. Sometimes Floridians think Washington State is in the frozen north, but alas - climbable ice is very elusive here.