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obwan

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Everything posted by obwan

  1. I'm not sure if it was on hands and knees, but just knowing of this troubled adventure dates us all. Maybe 25 years ago.
  2. You're correct - but Raynauds can lead to frostbite. Yep.
  3. Not mine - but a guy I knew crawled out from Stuart on hands and knees, and lost the tips of his fingers and toes - as they went from white to blue to black.
  4. Maybe when they see their fingers go from white to black?? Whatever.
  5. Glassgowkiss - I tend to agree with you, it seems that everyone has found someway to cope with it and other medical issues. And forgive me if I piss-off any doctors on this site: but unless you have something broke or bleeding, they have trouble diagnosing it ( especially in the ER). But there has been times the ER has helped me - only after I've twisted their arm into going down the right path; (hopefully I can continue seeing them while still conscious). I have been struggling with many health issues over the years and told to stay off the Internet. But it is a good way to hear how others deal with various problems, and some times stumble into the right answer - and I understand no one wants to be sued for giving out the wrong diagnosis until sure.
  6. I have had Raynauds for years - and it makes Puget Sound diving difficult as well as Ice climbing. A buddy also has it and uses Procardia w/prescription. It's pretty much explained on the web, say WebMD or Mayo Clinic. I like to use hand warmers in my mitts or belay gloves, and use a thin polypro liner inside climbing gloves or mitts - then when I need some better dexterity and pull off a glove or mitt, then having a skin layer not exposed to ice with the liner it helps. I haven't been frost bitten yet - but it is always a concern. Those white fingers are also called "dead man hands". They have a product called FIR Therapy gloves (Far Infrared Therapy) for those with arthritis/raynauds - not to expensive (on web). I have not tried them - but I hear they work for a construction guy I know that wears them under work gloves.
  7. So, it appears that there is no defined "expiration date". Kinda like current discussion I see on the news about "food" end date, sell by, etc. Hah,some of us always have a good pub story about using sketchy ropes.
  8. I think a lot of it depends on its use and history, and how comfortable you are with that. Also, consider some type of semi-retirement, limited or future use. Jason is about right if it's well taken care of, and is to be used for some serious lead climbing, then 10 years may be about right, or less. I actually had to retire a rope after 2-3 years after some heavy use.You can also see this discussion on the rope makers, ie; BD and Pretzel sites. But if you were to give it some low use on low commitment climbs - in my honest opinion, no big deal. If that bothers one knowing it's history - then chop it or tow the car with it. UV or long term desert climbing would obviously be harsh compared to being in the closet a few years here in the PNW. So - there is IMHO no absolute good answer, and in surfing this site and the web, you will get a lot of opinions. So, IMHO there is not an "age" only retirement determination. One of my favorite answers is like the one on "anchors" - when asked " do you think that will hold? ". And my answer is usually - "Looks OK to me , just don't fall on it!".
  9. If anyone runs into Tony - let him know about my inquiry, thanks.
  10. Tony Bentley - are you out there somewhere in The Land of Confusion? Send me a pm.
  11. obwan

    Why

    Excuse me sir. Have you been drinking?
  12. obwan

    Why

    WTF - I climb, therefore I am.
  13. Maybe we should head to the East Coast, as it looks like another Ice Age is beginning.
  14. Alex (and glassgowkiss) - I'm in, if there are any more winters this mild - my ice gear will last forever.
  15. Check out the great photos and TR of Alex Leone's 12/14/14 climb on the Gib Ledges - you all won't be seeing any conditions in Jan-March like this, only IF all the planets and stars are in alignment. Trust the judgement and feedback from others on this.
  16. Sounds like you have good Back Country skills. On Solo adventures, I use a PLB Satellite Beacon.
  17. bobinc - Oops! My error, all credits to Dan. genespires - you are correct on all counts - Snowshoeing is just winter hiking, but with the need for good nav skills and the added danger of avalanche.
  18. Your best bet would be to get a copy of Dan A. Nelson's book 2nd edition on "Snowshoe Routes in Washington" at Amazon or REI, (for a nominal cash outlay), the information that he provides is invaluable. He's done a major amount of research, and covers the best areas - including North Cascades and Alpine Lakes. His longest routes are maybe 2-3 days - the highest elevations may last until April, he calls them best with some fresh snow Dec - March. Which brings up the backcountry issues of avalanche, navigation and able to haul in enough gear, food and dry clothes - a sled helps in the longer treks. I'm not sure what your level of experience is in these issues - but generally speaking, I've encountered severe temps in the 0-10 degree range and the fun trip becomes an epic survival adventure, as these areas are the most rugged in the Northwest - but also the most beautiful. Have fun, be safe and good luck.
  19. If conditions are cold - The Rambles is your best bet. But I believe there is a warming trend on the way.
  20. Depends on which direction you came from - but I'll give you some help, from Lillooet travel sw on hwy 99 about 17 miles , maybe 30 minutes (it's actually about 2hrs from Whistler) - but you'd know that much already being there. You'll see a bunch of cars parked in a small area next to the hwy, just on the 'left side' - across from the foot bridge. I mean this place is like the "Exit 38" of I-90, you should see a line up. Then the approach heads straight up the hill from the car - hiking varies depending on if you do Rambles Left, right or center. It's about 150-300 meteres up from the hwy (look way up)- it's not one of those 'jump out of the car and belay', it's a ways up off the road. Almost sounds to vague, like Beckey - but that's all you do, hike straight up. I'm sure the Canuck's on this site have a more defined approach or photos. You can get some photos on-line; just Google Rambles Ice.
  21. Glacier Peak 10,541ft.
  22. Little Tahoma Peak 11,138 ft.
  23. You could probably even Google some websites, and I also find useful data on the UW and NWAC sometimes. Maybe you'd have to contact them for historical data - I'm always able to get a few days forecast with altitudes,wind and temps; being a local helps. Check these links: www.atmos.washington.edu/data/rainier_report.html www.nwac.us/weatherdata/paradise/now/
  24. I have not checked any wind records - but from personal experience, March is one of the windiest. Then add the ability of Rainier to make it's own wind - which will kick your ass!
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