rocky_joe

Paul- The gates are no longer a viable option for an easy trip up Hood. From the both the photos and what I saw they appeared to be WI3. The Chute is pretty much the standard these days, esp since the Hogsback forms a lot further left than in past years. Good advice about traversing low. I've been up the SS 2x this year both times traversing about half way between the schrund and hot rocks...I like to get some uphill on the traverse and save myself from a couple hundred extra feet of straight uphill. But definitely don't traverse above the schrund, no point in crossing it these days.

Can I file a police report saying an REI employee took all my BRAND NEW gear with tags still on it? I'm sure I could have that returned pretty easily.

oh and boxer briefs...when i decide to ditch the nanner hammock

Mom says "helmet on," and then I can take the bus to my job.

bump...let's hear that beta, I know you've got it...

It's that time of year again. Snow is melting rapidly and masochists across the PNW are beginning to ponder 'the Marathon.' Having "completed" it last year (as well as swearing I would never do it again) I am now looking to remove those quotation marks and clear my conscience of the whole event... I've learned a lot and read even more. But, I have a few questions to which I have yet to receive any definitive answer. So, here it goes, a last ditch effort to rally the troops and get the answers I want. N. Sister, Bowling Alley: What is the earliest it has been entirely snow free? With such a low snowpack this year is it unreasonable to aim for the first weekend in August? S. Sister, N. Ridge: Which line is the best for the traverse? Red Line: This is the most direct, but having taken it last year, is also very very very sketchy. The red line is pretty true to the route I climbed...any easier line that I missed in the blue box? Green Line: Anyone taken this line for the traverse? About the yellow box, I have never been at the right place to say what is there? Is it just a transition to scree or does the glacier hang there? Finally, what is the one item you forgot that you would never do the traverse again without? No Spray please, I don't care how fast you've done the traverse...or how the N. Ridge isn't 4th class (that means you Wimsey)...just answers and honest beta from anyone who has done the Marathon.

oh yeah, i suppose you did mean a book as opposed to a service...oops. here's my recoommendation for Oregon High if you can get a copy ($50+ on eBay)

Check out Timberline Mountain Guides. http://www.timberlinemtguides.com/

I was up there Sunday am when the guy fell. I was with a few new (the brand spankin variety) climbers; not the best thing to watch when you're that new. The guy was downclimbing, slowly. I can't say exactly why he fell...that was the only part I didn't see of the fall. His tumble started about 100' below the summit ridge and continued til 20' or so before the hot rocks. He pinwheeled for the first 100' and then started rag dolling (apparently unconscious). There are three things about the fall i can't explain, how he's alive, how he managed to cross two ropes and not take anyone with him, and how he didn't break anything (from what I heard). When he fell I was right at the top, so I didn't head down to him, but he was quickly attended to by someone who seemed to have the qualifications (WEMT or higher is what I heard yelled...I think). He was quickly cleared of head/spine and they had a team help him down to the base of Devil's Kitchen, from there I understand they arranged a snocat to meet them at palmer to take him down. Hope he's healing well.

all this talk of falcons, but nothing of the needs of those falcons have. I think a falconer may have a few solutions for y'all.

is the pinnacle better (easier) with or without snow, assuming good snow.

cuz softball sucks.

go rent one from a stihl shop they'll prob get 50 big ones of you, but better than throwing down 600 for a decent saw. and no you can't use mine (cuz I don't have one).

thanks for the links...interesting...perhaps depressing.

this guy's jealous. way to get after it.

give him his stuff back...dan, hope you see your gear soon.

Mountains do not get bolted (exception MAY BE sketchy belays or rap anchors). If you want bolts, go to Smith. Bolts are for featureless face climbs, not beautiful crack systems. Can you imagine a sunset in the Enchantments with the sun's last rays glistening off all the bolted lines on Dragontail? Sounds gorgeous huh? *reeks of sarcasm* To add another voice to the glacier saftey choir...learn crevasse rescue ie. 2:1 & 3:1 pulley systems, snow anchors, prusik belays and how to travel in rope teams over heavily crevassed glaciers. Again, this will most likely be the crux of the climb...you shouldn't have any problem on the class 3 stuff. Also, let's see a link about the Everest bolting...

If you have to ask if a MOUNTAIN is bolted you need to consider what you're getting into. Also, if you need beta more specific than gear to 4", class 3/4 and "go up." you really need to second guess your skill level. The beta you have been given should be more than sufficient to get you up the hill. I haven't been on the hill, but from the photos/topos I have seen it is pretty straight forward. Anything more specific would be running beta (and thank god we're not sport rats.) here's a good reference to help sort out what we mean by class 2, 3, 4, 5... * Class 1 is walking with a low chance of injury and a fall unlikely to be fatal. * Classes 2 and 3 are steeper scrambling with increased exposure and a greater chance of severe injury, but falls are not always fatal. * Class 4 can involve short steep sections where the use of a rope is recommended, and un-roped falls could be fatal. * Class 5 is considered true rock climbing, predominantly on vertical or near vertical rock, and requires skill and a rope to proceed safely. Un-roped falls would result in severe injury or death.

oh man, i love buildering...was just "climbing" on campus at UO today. I have one proud send...goes at like V6 or so. fun shit.

camp at the hogsback? why? but there's not...probably best to camp climber's R. of crater rock...or even better, Illumination Saddle.

Canuckistani bacon...is there any other sort? kinda like geese, huh? great trip report (esp considering it was a marginally intelligible shit fest). way to "send." P.S. muenter mule overhand? you should use the muenter slippery overhand...way more reliable (and takes a little less rope.)

cool climb and fantastic photos. thanks for posting.

i think Rock & Ice had an article on people like this guy...called something like "Top-Ropers unite." sounds like you found one of these TR only climbers.

kimmo, I don't think, and Aric correct me if I'm wrong, that the direct objective of this small sample size testing is to make the consumer feel safe. Rather I think that Aric is trying to stage an indirect protest to the manufacturer through a retailer of considerable size. It would seem the most effective way to get CCH to change their process. I mean if they do this at a few stores who sell a lot for CCH and at every store see below rating failures I'm sure CCH will have a few angry shop owners knocking on their door demanding money for the shit they were sold. To me that sounds like the most effective way to deal with CCH, who obviously couldn't give a damn if you or I deck(die) because their gear is assembled under piss poor standards.

still have these?