rocky_joe

I am thinking of giving the route a go this weekend...would you say the route is still climbable? Or would I be best served to put my time into another peak? Also bikes=necessary?

At that point you're looking for a partner...not a follower

fantastic shots. some of the best climbing photos I've seen from Prusik.

Mark, you have more options, and better ones at that, than Nate described. Go learn to lead at a crag. Practice a bunch and get your lead confidence about you, then go out and enjoy ticking off your goals. It will be a lot more rewarding to learn and lead the climbs yourself than to find a random guy (or girl) online to do all the work for you. And you're right, guides are way too expensive. Also, don't solo what you're not comfortable leading. (Bad advice nate!) -Joe

dude, sport and trad are different things...get over it. neither is really more bad ass than the other. You're probably just mad cuz you can't face climb.

BBQ Pope is way harder than 10b. But SYZ is was easier than 10b, also 9 Gallon is easy.

since the headache started before the 8000' mark, it might be possible that your partner wasn't experiencing just AMS. Usually, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, AMS doesn't occur on its own until one is over 8k. The early headache may have just been made worse by the elevation gains. And what were you carrying that weighed 60lbs?

When did your friend start complaining of the headache?

hoff is dreamy. boner- I thought you had gone on a never ending adventure of pole riding and "classic cascade scrambling." Dammit.

nice photos...you should make em bigger tho.

great TR. Thanks for the beta update as well.

IIB- I don't think anyone 'blindly trusts' any piece of gear. It's not too much for one to expect a piece of gear that in all likelihood will hold their life at some point will perform in the manner in which it was advertised. Aliens, as Aric's work has shown, do not perform at the level at which they are advertised to perform. Also, please quit posting drivel that is unabashedly irreverent of any grammatical adherence. Aric, Thanks again for all your time, money and work. I hope that CCH will either get their act together or be shut down before more climbers become injured or worse.

Great TR, haven't seen that one yet. Looks super fun, and nice photos!

hoping to climb thieslen this weekend again, then Jeff via JPG, Dragontail (hopefully Serpertine arete, and the sisters thing again. but that's if my knee gets better. interest?

So bad judgment on my part. We made a bad choice. I felt at the time that it wasn't such a bad thing and we were doing it "safely" by watching the entire slide and yelling rock, but now I really feel like shit about it. I don't want to be that guy, who everyone thinks is some douchebag and makes exceptions to universal rules for his own purposes. So, I'm sorry I tossed rocks. It was dumb, irresponsible and dangerous. I won't be caught doing it again, and most assuredly won't climb with people looking to toss rocks either. I can't imagine how shitty I'd feel had someone been hurt, or worse.

I've seen, more than once, Mazama rope teams of 5-10 on the chute, not placing pro. Hence my distaste. I didn't mean to suggest that Mazamas cause all the congestion problems. But to say they don't play a role in it is also wrong. You are also right in saying that they do a lot of good teaching new folks the ins and outs. I would rather see newer climbers up there with Mazamas (or Obsidians or Chemeketans) than on their own. Sorry I spoke to generally. I'm aware of the fact that mount hood is the 2nd most climbed glaciated peak in the world...which is why I try to avoid going up the chute most days I'm up on the hill.

you're right, and normally I wouldn't be caught tossing rocks...but the whole runout was visible and there wasn't a soul to be seen.

I totally agree. That shit is fucked and if I got to the Hogsback and saw that I'd have lunch and turn my ass around. No fucking reason people can't climb the gullies climber's right of the main chute. Fucking Mazamas and their goddam rope teams of 80.

Trip: Mt, Washington - North Ridge Date: 6/25/2009 Trip Report: So apparently under all that white wet stuff we call snow there's this thing called rock. I had heard of it before but I never really believed. As it turns out my disbelief was not entirely alleviated by the STELLAR rock quality on this route. Seriously the stuff was great, holds so obvious (and mobile) that one never had to tell your partner where the next foot was, because all to often he had already seen it as it whizzed past his head. And like the old cascade adage goes "the best thing about climbing in the cascades is that when you aren't fond of a handhold, it's okay, just put it back." Leaving Eugene at the ungodly late hour of 6am, my body still hadn't adjusted to the idea of waking up late to climb. Oh the pains of summer, sunshine, warmth, bare rock...just terrible. We got to the TH and quickly realized that the crux of the day's activity would be avoiding something we heard the locals calling a "mosskeeto." Never heard of 'em before but the little tikes sure enjoy sucking (blood). Bug spray may have been an oversight. To the climbing. A quick 4 mile jaunt took us to the ridge, which now bare was only modestly more strenuous than a City Center Mall escalator. Being paced at this point by Tom, Mike and I were unaware of the second crux of today's climb...withstanding the horrid stench coming from just a few metres ahead. Seriously I think Tom took a bit of Devil's Kitchen home with him the last time up Der Hoodie. The Summit Block: a nearly inspiring hunk of choss with the possibility of some rock well below the facade. We roped up, but I'm not sure why, the gear was not much beyond psychological. In fact, Tom only place one piece, a sling. Mike soloed and I was left to prove my guts by toproping the whole affair...yay. Oh well, still up. One super exciting pitch of climbing no harder than 5.4 and the scramble began. The views from the summit were sublime and the weather pristine. We soaked up some rays and even scrawled our names on the register. This was the nicest day I'd been up a peak in quite some time, and the first time I was keen to hang out for more than 5 minutes. A few more minutes of bullshitting and such and we were back on our way down. The scramble to the first pitch was straight forward and from there we set up the lone rappel. Back on the trail and making time. God, scree skiing is just about the 4th best thing ever (right after sex, drunk biking, and exploitation of southeast asian labour forces). Once to tree line we remembered the original crux of the climb. Them damn PI Lawyers (oops I meant bloodsuckers) were everywhere. I think I may have actually spent more energy keeping them at bay than I did walking. All in all, a fun climb and decent workout...too bad my knee is now fucked beyond comfortable. Hope it recovers, cuz I have a few more plans for the summer. Gear Notes: Small rack 60 m rope Dome Protection Approach Notes: Forget Bug Spray. Harbicks for jerky and Trail Mix

because the skull by itself is so much better.

teach a kid on gear? kenny you're an idiot. good to see the kid getting out so early. that's badass. bummer she wasn't wearing a helmet the first lead tho.

WTF are you talking about? Buy a suburban.

petzl ropes suck. I liv my beal. I've a few buddies with petzls, they fray after a year of use.

Y'all haven't seen that yet? Def worth the time to watch it (once if not 4x). Big fan of the part with Johnny and Micah, watching it now, its a damn shame.

I dunno about RumR but I belay 13a off the couch. It's great. When my buddy trains I've been known to catch 13c. I'm pretty impressed with myself.