rocky_joe

I've had it >4 times now and can get it healed in ~3 weeks if i do every thing right. go to PT, it helps a ton as there is only so much good you can do for yourself (in regards to deep tissue massage). top 5 things to do. 1.stretch your hip...patellar tendonitis tends to stem from tightness in the hips. 2. strength exercises that isolate the affected quad...this can help counteract the tightness in the IT band and hip. 3. rest, nothing worse for it than a run, or hike, well actually just don't have fun for a few weeks. 4. get a knee band asap...the strip one that goes over the patella. they're like 15-20 and help a ton. 5. if you can get your hands on some liquid (pure) DMSO...its fantastic. It is usually reserved for race horses, but I have a friend who works in a lab on campus and has access to it. what it does is penetrate the cellular membranes through your knee (or other place) and remove the free radicals that cause inflammation...tons better than any NSAID. apply topically. good luck.

Huck the Fuskies.

Exactly. Why even use a rope if its truly A6? Maybe we need a new grading system for stupidity. . Use a rope so you can get to the A4 pitches where it matters.

no such thing as A6. closed scale A5 = death of whole team.

Surprised King wasn't along for this go. Would think Thompson could go even faster with King along. For those who don't know, Max King is a world-class steepler out of Eugene...doesn't have another meet for a month or so...wonder how fast the two of them could go.

Ethics on an aid pitch are about as far from present as they are on a sport pitch.

Why the hell were you up there in August?

that must have been an awkward night...honey, you wait here...i'm gonna remover the adhesive residue from my tits, err...I mean slip into something more comfortable. that's it.

Watch "The Purist" funny stuff that. looks like this rising treeline business is good for some of us.

second the camp alpax recommendation. two buddies have them, great tool, climbs most AI stuff really well. Def has more clearance than either the venom or grivel tool for the steeper stuff.

nah man, you pretty much accused. there was one sentence in your original post that said "if it wasn't you." the rest was lecturing two guys who clearly know what they're doing and i'm assuming would never do anything in the alpine to endanger anyone. also, Sol and Jens, you guys are badass. that route looks stellar, thanks for the rock stoke!

god that hill is ugly this time of year. yuck.

lived in the area my whole life...never heard of em. does anyone else even climb in salem?

where's that second photo taken?

I am thinking of giving the route a go this weekend...would you say the route is still climbable? Or would I be best served to put my time into another peak? Also bikes=necessary?

At that point you're looking for a partner...not a follower

fantastic shots. some of the best climbing photos I've seen from Prusik.

Mark, you have more options, and better ones at that, than Nate described. Go learn to lead at a crag. Practice a bunch and get your lead confidence about you, then go out and enjoy ticking off your goals. It will be a lot more rewarding to learn and lead the climbs yourself than to find a random guy (or girl) online to do all the work for you. And you're right, guides are way too expensive. Also, don't solo what you're not comfortable leading. (Bad advice nate!) -Joe

dude, sport and trad are different things...get over it. neither is really more bad ass than the other. You're probably just mad cuz you can't face climb.

BBQ Pope is way harder than 10b. But SYZ is was easier than 10b, also 9 Gallon is easy.

since the headache started before the 8000' mark, it might be possible that your partner wasn't experiencing just AMS. Usually, and someone correct me if I'm wrong, AMS doesn't occur on its own until one is over 8k. The early headache may have just been made worse by the elevation gains. And what were you carrying that weighed 60lbs?

When did your friend start complaining of the headache?

hoff is dreamy. boner- I thought you had gone on a never ending adventure of pole riding and "classic cascade scrambling." Dammit.

nice photos...you should make em bigger tho.

great TR. Thanks for the beta update as well.