rocky_joe

Except that you are wrong again. Just because you crux out on one move in a route or problem does not mean that all climbing (as your language suggests) boils down to one move. Gaining muscle memory for one move does not encapsulate climbing. Typically it goes like this: try a climb crux out work crux repeat send try a new route crux out (new move) work new route repeat send for weightlifters (say a benchpresser) benchpress benchpress benchpress benchpress benchpress benchpress benchpress see the difference?

kimmo, you're an idiot. Not one person has even suggested they thought you were telling climbers to begin power lifting. READING COMPREHENSION KIMMO!!! But, really you ought to re-read what I originally wrote. You also ought to consult PT and ask about how long it can take tendons to gain strength, it's longer than you think. You want to know why? It is, like I said earlier, because tendons are non-vascular (they don't get blood.) Muscles are able to heal (read: strengthen) faster because they receive blood flow; since tendons do not strengthening them is a much more tenuous, precise and longer process. So I say again. If ANY climber simply climbs as hard as they can all the time (follows the idea of the belgian power-lifters) they WILL destroy their tendons because the tendons can simply NOT handle the constant stress. There is a reason that all literature about training to climb hard suggests some form of periodization. *note: kimmo, read this post and my last post at least 3x aloud each so that you understand what I wrote.

So I stopped reading after the first 3/4 page, but am hoping I can contribute something new to the conversation. Kimmo, you're wrong for all the reasons listed above: climbing works more systems, climbing works more muscles, climbing is higher stress, but there is one reason (that I think is the most important) that hasn't been pointed out. Climbing stresses tendons. Yes, weight lifting stresses tendons, but does not even come close to matching the stress placed on them by climbing, especially in the fingers. Tendons are fragile. Tendons are non-vascular. Tendons take up to 4 years (see Rock Prodigy) to begin to strengthen (respond to the stress of climbing.) After 4 years, tendons continue to strengthen, but the pace in which they gain strength is still much slower than muscle. For this reason we need to use at least some form of periodization in our training routines. Periodization focuses on strengthening different systems. Endurance training improves the repetitive strength of your muscles. Power Endurance attempts to increase one's lactate threshold. Hypertrophy strengthens the all important tendons by isolating muscle training immediately proximal to them. Finally rest (the most difficult to observe) allows all the systems to recover fully, thus becoming stronger. If climbers were to observe the same idea your weightlifting example eludes to, we would surely all be aid climbers within two months. That is a world I don't want to live in.

photos? i may be interested...

Seeing as I will be out until mid to late March I am wondering if the North Face is usually climbable that late in the season. The majority of TRs here and around the web are from Nov-Jan but given that I am just hoping that there are a bunch of shy climbers getting up it in march who have abstained from spraying about their awesomeness. Please feel free to share your early spring NF experiences/info here.

thanks for the well wishes. I'll probably won't be climbing again til the end of march. so i'm really stoked for the spring season.

south side is in. go for it, just watch out for avi conditions and temps.

Here is the only photo I have of the N. Side of I-Rock...sorry about the finger in the top corner. There was still a fair bit of bare rock and most of the rime (in other places) was quite thin and awful.

well of the two of us, Neal has his set of vipers, just chose to go with the viper vemon set up. my poor ass on the other hand only has the one aztarex. the aztar is a buddy's.

there now. but sideways. i turned my laptop on its side...and the photos work fantastic. I need to get over there.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Reid Glacier Headwall Date: 11/26/2009 Trip Report: With knee surgery lined up for the 14th of December I have been on pins and needles waiting for the goddamn snow to let up and get a decent weather window for a shot at the North Face. So, when this window came around I was soo stoked to get one last alpine fix(with hopefully one more to come) before 3 months of dreaming. As soon as I saw the forecast I knew Wendesday would be the day to get it done, however I was wary of jumping on such a committing route first time out for the year so my buddy, Neal, and I decided on giving the Reid a go. Us both being the most studious of students (reeks of sarcasm) we took off from Eugene around 6:30 on Tuesday night after having fulfilled out school commitments. Along the way we stopped for some BBQ off the 12 exit on 205. Goddamn does that town smell awful; the parking lot held an aroma of some amalgamation of baby pooh and vomit, boy were we glad to be out of there with stomachs full and minds set on the hill. The parking lot was empty; I was amazed. We both had some trouble imagining why no one else was up on the hill for the weather window (albeit nice to have the summit to ourselves.) We managed to bag about 3hrs of sleep before taking off from the cave at 2:30ish. I had forgotten, but have now recalled, how much i absolutely hate slogging. I swear to God, that walk to I-saddle is the hardest part of the climb; it feels like the 4th kilometer of a 5k: "why the hell am i doing this?...it hurts, i'm not the best...there is nothing to win...it's not fun!" Once to I-saddle we took a wee break for both food and gear. With our meager rations of pb&j, pop-tarts and granola consumed we lugged our cramponned selves down the west side of the saddle (I swear I cannot stand sidehilling in knee deep snow...best way to need a new pair of gaiters.) i failed to print a topo of the reid hw so we made the decision to take the first gulley, not know what would be around the buttress. Heading up the gulley we crossed the schrund easily as it is nearly entirely closed. Both below and above the schrund the clamboring sucked eggs. If there is one thing I can't stand more than slogging and sidehilling it is wallowing. Yuck. Well thank god that only lasted 2-300 vertical before we found ourselves in a nice little runnel with great cramponing and decently steep slope. Moving up steep terrain is sooo much more fun! the first steep step in the gully Neal coming through it Mountain Shadow Neal heading up some cruiser snow The 2nd steep step...probably about 65 degrees. We took a straight line up the gulley. This sent us over a couple fun 65-70 degree steps. God that stuff was fun. We moved with relatively good pace gaining the west crater rim about 3.5 hrs after entering the gulley. We did have an interesting little bit right at the end when the two options did not originally appear to be feasible. Climber's left was a steep mixed section that had been in the sun for a while, so when the slope got significantly steep and slushy I bailed off it without even getting to see what was beyond the crest. Neal then made his way towards the right side of the gulley to what had appeared to be a knife edge. In the moments between him gaining the top of the ridge and him shouting back that it was all good I was not enjoying the thoughts of retreating a mere 600' from the top. Luckily we turned out to be on course and gained the west crater rim at 10,700. From there we summited via the gullies to climber's right of the old chute. Summit shots After having no issues with wind the entire climb, the summit decided to blow like a cheap hooker. We took a few photos and got the hell out of there. Heading down skier's right of Crater rock we parted ways, briefly, so that I could go and fetch my sled at I-rock for the descent. This trip would end up being momentous in that not only was in Neal's 2nd and my 5th summit of the mountain, but it was also my 3rd (partial) sled descent of the hill (walking downhill destroys my knees). I took one major spill immediately below I-rock and then one more brief run before deciding to walk the remaining distance to the chair lift. From there I sledded the cat track and got face shots the whole way (and it wasn't even a pow day!) I made it to the lodge about 30 mins before neal and signed us out. As soon as he was down we peaced and had victory meal at the Ice Axe...great burgers! All in all a fun route, but I really want to get back and do the standard Reid route as what we did wasn't necessarily the true Reid HW. Oh well, I had a blast and got a little fix before the knife. A Winter well began. Gear Notes: Used: 2 Tools Not Used: Rope Pickets (3) Screws (5) Approach Notes: Slog to I-Rock and the drop down and climb up.

Keep it up man! It's awesome to see how far you've come in just two months! Happy Turkey Day! Also, good luck getting the problem cleared up.

yeah...sure , wait till they get a taste of AMERICAN 5.11 American 5.11 is better than French 8c just like American cheese kicks the shit out of their moldy lard wheels.

Does it really matter if the Euro climbers are sending 14a in their sleep and 14d on their 60th (or 13th) birthday? Their grades are probably soft like buttery croissants anyways.

miss the posts man. it's awesome what you're doing; that kind of motivation isn't around much these days. keep it up.

that's me on Wedding Day in your picture of the crowds. wrong...i was belaying a friend on latin lover in this picture. that's lila on wedding day

no ice? jesus wept.

chill out dude. no reason to chop the bolts. if they really bug you that bad then just don't look at them. Better worry about actually climbing something than about complaining about routes you don't even want to climb being over bolted.

that's it. i'm going next time it's not dumping.

pix and prices please.

With all these recent Baker TRs I'm assuming they've finally opened the road?

shit man, you're not fat, you weigh the same as i do...i mean unless, hey wait are you calling me fat?!?! imma go puke my lunch now.

Any recent photos or word about the road being closed/open?

absolutely fantastic photos. thanks for adding another adventure to my (quickly growing) list.

guesses as to how long before the right is in?