rocky_joe

When the piece blew, I was caught by the anchor, not thomas...although the fall should have been much shorter. I did fuck up and only made it so the anchor was equalized at three pieces...the blue nut held the fall and the cam was pretty useless. Reason...I didn't twist the left hand loop, and didn't tie in a shelf since the 8' sling would have created unacceptable angles...should have had longer sling or simply "x'd" the loop between the blue nut and cam. About the soundtrack...would have included it, but I was pretty sure that Ivan holds some sort of TR licensing for that...I'm not a big fan of those sort of lawsuits. (the song was "We fly high" by Jim Jones...ballin!

Trip: The Columns - Ski Tracks--Aid Date: 4/28/2009 Trip Report: So I know what you're thinking, "Why the fuck is this kid writing about some lame fucking day at the columns?" Am I right? Well, normally that is exactly what I would say in response to a TR that boasts the location of the columns' caliber just before clicking the link out of morbid curiosity. Well, trust me there's a story, and besides you've already clicked the link so might as well sit back and relax while I spin you a mid-week aiding yarn. (and besides, how many times have you read one of those Ivan aid TRs from beacon?) 6:09--"hey thomas, just got out of the library, fuck my life man...this 3 midterms and 2 papers in 3 days is killing me." --"tell me about it. what's say we go aid the columns?" --"... fuck yeah, but how bout we make it the shortest two pitch in the world and get some big wall practice...some of those guys on CC.com talked about doing that back in the day." Less than 30 mins later Thomas and I arrived at the columns, unaware of the miniature epic that awaited a mere 20' over head. Etriers tied and gear racked I took the lead for the first pitch. "nice dude, you're on." I started "climbing" and within maybe 20 minutes had completed my fantastically uneventful aid pitch of the same crack I've free'd at least a dozen times. I built an anchor (blue stopper, orange metolius, purple stopper *important details*) and set thomas up on his new fangled reverso^3 and began belaying him up. Being the kid he is, thomas didn't bring his jumars, so a free attempt (in tennis shoes)it was. His climb went quite smoothly and seemed that the cruxes were getting out the gear my fat ass had weighted. a few more minutes (and takes) and thomas was up to me. *NOTE: hanging belay, anchor has now held body weight x2 for over 20 mins* Thomas cloved in and we racked him up for his lead. Thomas being a bit greener than I when it comes to aid (although he schools me in real climbing, especially that crack shit) required a few bits of beta. The first few pieces involved me giving him pointers on what I've found to be most efficient and he carried them out quite nicely. He placed his first piece, a beautifully placed blue stopper, stepped up and then came a yellow metolius. good placement, good test tugs, good step. Thomas was moving quite smoothly albeit slowly and then "pop." My mind didn't register the sensation of falling until a few moments after my fall had been arrested. Sitting at my anchor I was talking Thomas through some, now unimportant, minutia of aid technique, when all of a sudden I was 4' lower. The purple stopper, #4, had popped and I had fallen. How the fuck it happened I don't know...it had held body weight x2 for over 40 mins now, why the fuck did it just go like that? (I can only assume we were unknowingly filming the sequel to Vertical Limit) I didn't really have much time to care, because I was not 4' below the one piece that was holding my weight. I had thomas send me down some gear and quickly built a new, even more bomb proof anchor. in the meanwhile Thomas fixed the rope to his highest piece as a backup for the one piece holding me up. As soon as my new anchor was built I was in it, and Thomas could once again begin climbing. Fuck that was scary, and for all the tension of the past few moments the next bit of Thomas' lead was just as horrifying. I now didn't trust any of my pieces, but I didn't have a choice, because unlike David Blaine I cannot levitate. Thomas' last piece before the lip took him all of forever to figure out (it was now well past dark o'clock...I have now been hanging for over an hour and my legs are asleep, I am impatient and feeling light headed. Thomas finally finagles a black metolius (my largest piece, God a green would have been fantastic) into a good high point, steps up and crests the lip. With the rope fixed I begin to jug it (which takes be all of forever to figure out in my shaken, light headed state). A couple moments later I've cleared my mind with one exception, getting off this goddamn rock. In a matter of (what felt like) a few moments I am up top and untied. I spend a good few minutes getting the shock loaded clove out of the rope and the make sure that I have all the gear that we took up. I toss the rope and Thomas (who had been talking to some train bum the whole time I've been jugging) catches it and begins to flake. The climb is over...thank god. So what did tonight prove? Why did I write this? maybe mostly for my own enjoyment...but really I guess I felt there was a little epic worth telling. I guess I have finally realized that it is IMPOSSIBLE for me to head out of doors with Thomas and not have a routine adventure like a normal person; shit always seems to hit the fan with this kid. I mean, fuck, we can't even spend an evening at the columns without a scare. Well, what am I gonna do...not like anyone else will put up with me and my shit. So for now looks like I'll just keep climbing and expecting the unexpected. Gear Notes: yellow-black metolius (x2 orange) 1.5 rack of BD stoppers 5-7 hexcentrics (I know it's a huge rack, right?) Approach Notes: cheese burger on a bagel, and the 5 block walk to Thomas' apt

third for Climbing: Self Rescue. But don't just read it...set that shit up. it gives you more than enough tools to get out of many hairy situations. also, read Accidents in North American Mountaineering...learn from other's fuck ups. but most of all (this is what I'm learning) get on shit that is inspiring and well within your ability. be safe and have fun!

woohoo...and OR route, finally. I wanna get that one done asap. all my buddies say its the best thing in the park.

its a great tour or xc ski. unless you hike up Mt. Scott there's not a ton of downhill to be had. Better head to thielsen...the ski from the ledge looks fantastic...might be in th/fr this week since it's supposed to get some fresh pow...

I wondered what that was called when we were at I-saddle the week before last. That shit looks sick. We were gonna walk over and have a look (not a go) but I think the sledding ended up winning the battle (and I wasn't gunna walk that damn hill again.)

good call turning around. even when i climbed that last weekend with little wind shit was coming down, i wouldn't want to see it on a windy day. definitely a route worth doing.

hell yeah i'm getting out. it's my first full season in the mountains and i'm way stoked to get out every damn weekend, plus i can't stand to waste a weekend like normal college fuckers do. any suggestions? i'm always looking to find a gem of a climb i haven't come across yet.

Trip: Mt Thielsen - West Ridge (Standard) Date: 4/26/2009 Trip Report: Another week of this college stuff gone, and despite a mountain of homework to tackle, both Craig (cemmes) and I decided that an actual mountain may be a little more manageable. I had done Thielsen in the summer once before and Craig once in the spring, conditions looked fantastic so we jumped at the idea of a little excursion to the hills. We arrived at the parking lot right around 1am, having left Eugene around 10:30. Needless to say we got one of those super long nights of sleep us college students are known for. The alarm rudely awoke us at 3:30 and we were "soon" up and readying. All our shit packed, racked, and stowed we began the approach (which turns out is all but the last 200 ft of the climb now. A little temporary confusion as to where the goddamn trail markers were, as well as where the wanker whose bootpack we had some loose loyalty to was headed. In the end we agreed to "fuck it and head up hill that way." It worked more or less, yay. Putting us just climbers right of the ridge. A few more steps (some of the rest ones) and we were at the climb. Didn't bother to put on the 'pons since we seemed to bet getting enough purchase on the bomber snow without, and it was only 100' that would have merited using them. Having decided before the climb that we would pitch out the summit block, we roped and racked up. Craig jumped on the lead (and I was all to eager to let him have it.) The climbing was straight forward, 4th class at the most and Craig made quick work of it. I seconded and did likewise. At the rap station (thanks to whoever slung that this year, it was nice) we unroped, high fived and began the last few steps to the summit. Craig took a few photos of me on my second and stowed the camera. It turns out that much like locking biners needing to be locked to be locking, zippered pockets must also be zipped for the zipper to take effect. One step above the rap station the camera fell out of Craig's pocket and into God only knows where. *explanation for absence of photos* So there are no photos, but there is a Camera somewhere on Thielsen for any who are brave enough to go off route far climbers left. We looked for the camera to no avail. At the base of the pinnacle we put on the crampons for the descent (fantastic choice). The walk down was straight forward and went with ease. We were back in the car within a few hours. Blue bird skies, fast, hard snow and a short fun climb made for a fantastic Sunday, now to conquer that homework mountain. **Powderhound...you asked...there's no ice anywhere on the pinnacle. woulda posted photos but gravity had other plans (see above). Gear Notes: Small Alpine Rack, Axe, Crampons. Approach Notes: 3/4 the climb. Fast snow and some route finding.

nice TR, sweet photos. looks like a fun climb. way to get after it.

Any word on what the Lightning Rod is like this time of year? Cemmes and I are considering a go at it tomorrow. Has the trail been (partly or wholly) cleared? Should we expect snow on the summit block? Thanks.

What routes have you absolutely loved (or hated for that matter)? Best Rock, Best Views, Most Interesting Climbing. Share your favorite NW routes here, maybe you've got one that isn't done commonly. They can be alpine, ice, rock, whatever got you stoked. Also, photos are bonus points (although I'm not sure anyone's keeping track)!!

i guess i should qualify my statements...dammit I knew that WR 122 class would come in handy one of these days...it's fucked to touch draws (other than an obvious bailer) on anything harder than 12a/b. no matter how long its been up. you leave draws on 9 gal. buckets and I'll take em down as soon as you rap off.

why would anyone take a whole line of draws? that's fucked. claiming some booty, ie bail biner/draw/gear is fine, but to strip a whole line? They ought to be lashed or something.

oh man, Three sisters marathon. I remember the last time I said that phrase without a sense of despair, pain or anger...about 5 minutes before we left Pole Creek. Beta...Don't ski it...wait til August and hike. Leave Pole Creek no later than 2am on the day you plan to do the marathon. Hydrate/Eat VERY well. Pack Iodine. Bring a 30m line to rap the bowling alley...it will save you 45 mins. DO NOT take the direct line up S. Sister's N. Ridge (skirt to climbers left, it's a walk up.) Trekking Poles are a must. GAITERS!!! Be in fantastic shape...from Pole Creek to Devil's Lake it is ~10000 gain/loss and 18 miles. Oh and one last piece of advice...don't get lost coming down S. Sister...the emergency bivy at 9000' is really unpleasant. Best of Luck and happy climbing.

sick line...looks way funking rad! Nice work! how big a rack would you recommend? oh and I saw the guy workin the east face...couldn't tell who it was...but he looked strong enough; his belayer looked super excited to have the job. ha.

craig- callahans on friday? or any afternoon...I've been wanting to get out there as well.

fuck yeah!!! that place is gorgeous...i might be a bit jealous.

yeah I kept trying to follow your boot pack, half of is was covered in fallen shit, but it was definitely appreciated on that windblown stuff up top. About Reid HW, how much more involved is that route in good condish?

Trip: Mt. Hood - Leuthold Couloir Date: 4/19/2009 Trip Report: After a failed attempt on Wy'East a few weekends back, and long week of school it took little persuasion to get me signed on for a trip up the hill. Thomas (maineiac) and I have been known to make any and all of our trips interesting (yeah, interesting, that's a good word for it). Whether it be me dislodging breadbox sized boulders, or Thomas navigating after the fact, it seems every time we step out of doors together we're bound for an interesting story or two. All this in mind I threw my gear in the back of the car and we headed out. Having both been up the cattle drive (him a few times), we wanted something a little more interesting, Leuthold seemed the obvious choice; short approach, great view, moderate snow. Our one qualm with the mountain in previous goes has been the damned down climb; Thomas, the skier that he his has remedied this in past summits with two boards and some poles, however on this attempt he's working on breaking in some shiny new boots. So, how on earth can one get down the mountain without skis or walking? Sleds seemed the obvious answer. A short stop in Sandy and were the very proud owners of two toboggan style sleds. We arrived at a very empty Timberline parking lot around 3:45. Thomas quickly signed us in while I readied the gear. Sleds in hand we hit the snow, presented with our first obstacle, we made quick work of rigging our sleds to carry our packs (better than on our backs, right...ha). The hike to Illumination Saddle was quick and (relatively) painless. The viiews of Yocum at sunset were stunning and everything looked to be in, hell we could even see (what we thought was) the bootpack up the couloir. Setting up camp was perhaps the one let down of the trip...no pre-dug pit :'( Out of the wind, we feasted, me on a safeway sammich and Thomas on some grouping of GU, clif bar and whatever else that kid packs around these days. 3am came quickly, but for the first time I was well rested for an alpine day (all 5.5 hrs of sleep!). Started climbing around 3:45...Thomas had to curl his hair, and I kept insisting I had nothing to wear, but other than that we were fairly quick to get to it. The schrund is just starting to open, only a few deep places. Not having traversed high enough, we crossed the schrund and we into the couloir. Thomas taking the Lead Thomas starting the hourglass Reaching the Queen's Chair I took the lead for the first bit, placing a few pickets, but we soon gave up on that; the snow could not have been better and the trough in the middle of the couloir made for a simple ascent. The crux was definitely dogding by all the little shit falling around us, but hey, if you can dodge falling ice you can dodge a ball (life skills 101). Thomas took the lead through the hourglass. The rest of the climb was straight forward and very enjoyable. The views were fantastic, stunning in fact. Once on the summit ridge we were struck with the reality that is a sunny day on hood. A flock of people were pushing for their summit, and all up the old chute. We snapped a few shots, said cheers and then were ready to get the hell off the hill. A brief traffic jam in one of the chutes (see: French Technique--lack thereof) was the singular hold up on the descent. Opting to avoid the crowds and a longer walk, we made our way down the west crater. Once in sight of the tents we knew the climb was over and the real fun could begin. We made quick work of tearing down camp and munching some lunch (breakfast). Wathched some Mazamas (might also have been Chemeketans, or Obisidians, but i don't care to differentiate) roped up just below the saddle doing something fancy (I think the called it "belaying"). A few minutes later the fun had begun...3000 vertical feet of sledding, 35 minutes, and one angry ski patroller later we were at the car celebrating. The sledding was marvelous, it only took three or four gnarly crashes to decide to pack the axes away and a few more to figure out how to link the turns. The ride was bliss...there was even a helicopter filming (a skier). I'm sure we'll be getting a call soon from the sickest sled sponsors. All in all a fantastic trip with a characteristic twist. Gear: 2nd tool (not needed) Pickets (placed 1 or 2) Glacier Line SLEDS!!! Approach: Huh?

fuck yeah. way to get out and shred that shit. sick write up and photos as well.

thanks for the boot pack, it's much appreciated. Thomas (maineiac) and I climbed leuthold this morning. I was astounded that no one else was on the route today, it was in fantastic shape.

So, that's the top then?

yeah i was kinda joking, i'd never waste my money. anyways, BD put out a real stinker with this one.

what do you do with the other rap strand? or do us sport climbers not rap?