rocky_joe

Definitely better to use a draw (sling). While one biner will do just fine to hold you up, consider the rope drag on the rock and against the hanger itself, not exactly a dream for a sheath. As for two biners together, unless I'm aiding (and even then) I try to avoid it. Especially if you are using d-shaped biners, biner on biner action usually leads to something coming undone. I'd always suggest using a draw whenever possible.

Roped Soloing it's called. It's actually pretty straight forward. Set an anchor at the base of the climb, and fix the line. Using an autolocking belay device (grigri, cinch, yoyo, etc.) attach the line to harness as if to belay a leader, instead the line that would normally go to the climb should now go to the anchor. Climb and clip giving yourself slack as needed. There are devices made for roped soloing, but it can be done with an autolocking device, or even a clove, so why drop the extra penny?

I have a piece of gear (#6 stopper) that I am considering tossing...I'm not sure if I should though. Here's the story, I was cleaning the piece and since I was aiding, it was in there quite well. Somehow I managed to screw up the wire with my nut tool. The wires are separated a bit, but none broken. Is it time for this piece to meet its maker?

steepandcheep.com right now, if your are lucky enough to catch it. Mammut Genesis 50m superdry 8.5 half

Planning a trip to Diamond Peak this April. I am hoping to access via Divide Lake trailhead and "climb" the NE ridge. Anyone know about the road situation? When can one expect to get within a reasonable distance (<4mi) of that Trailhead? Or is there a better point to access that side of the mountain from?

cool, but how the hell does one repel?

That last photo is fantastic!!!

Wow, that might be a ways over my head, A3? F--k that. Maybe I'll think about it after a few more years.

Dane is right. Every time I have dealt with BD they have been absolutely stellar. I'm sure they'll help you out. Send it in.

how about on the matterhorn, is the rock good?

Thinking of spending some time out there this spring/summer. Wondering if there are any moderate multipitch rock lines worth seeking out? Any potential, or is the granite there like the basalt/andecite in the cascade volcanoes?

I dunno about that. Granted I have not been to the WWU gym, but if it is anything like the hunk of shite we have at UO, then I can easily see getting any and all serious college climbers to join your gym. The Crux in Eugene definitely has that going for it. Population of Bellingham WA : 75,000 Population of Eugene OR : 154,000 Population of Whatcom County WA: 166,000 Population of Lane County OR: 322,000 Ya think the deomgraphics are a little different? I don't agree that 75,000 is to small a population to support a gym, much less the 166,00 in the county. In fact I think that Eugene could use another gym, the Crux is stretched to the seams most weeknights. So, yeah I would think 75,000 more than enough to support a gym.

I dunno about that. Granted I have not been to the WWU gym, but if it is anything like the hunk of shite we have at UO, then I can easily see getting any and all serious college climbers to join your gym. The Crux in Eugene definitely has that going for it.

wow, i hope that was sarcastic...

G-Spotter...that is the best beta ever. I use it all the time, and like magic it usually works. Rob... I second that with a resounding, "Climb Harder." About your aider situation though, I had a friend who used webbing to make his and sewed sections of inner tube to make the steps sturdy. Although I am not sure if it is lighter than a manufactured aider. Worth a try though. You could also try a Purcell Prusik as an aider. Very useful and it only takes two 10' lengths of cord.

The last two bolts on Double Trouble at Smith are pretty sketchy. Might as well be plant hangers, esp the last one which spun 180 deg. I didn't even bother clipping it. The anchors are also a little unnerving, there was definitely a significant amount of creaking going on during the lower.

Maine-iac and I were out exploring what we were hoping would be some mines (turned out to be long since collapsed) and we found quite a few piles of what I believe were 70's style Miller cans. It was strange to find trash older than either of us.

I don't even think I was a thought in my parent's minds yet.

I will always stick clip the first bolt on BBQ the Pope, but otherwise nope. Even then I'm not gonna waste 35-40 bucks buying one.

Pros: $20 Koflach Degre at REI scratch and dent. Liners make decent booties around camp.

Blue Water Ropes Accelerator. 10.5x60m Non-Dry; $130 http://www.rei.com/outlet/product/ +extra 20% off if REI member. so really it's $104

Wow, that would be a new world record

Four issues with this post. 1. You gave a shout out to BD...where's the puptent love...I mean come on man $19 and you get a damned sewn floor. That's legit. 2. You have a girlfriend?!?!?! Now I've heard it all. 3. Science has shown that both oranges and the sun carry Giardia, so I probably won't be spending too much time with either. 4. The only hunter who cares about machine guns is a certain ex VP candidate in AK... + = Good Ole Time with Sarah Palin Oh and one final note: “Neither health department surveillance nor the medical literature supports the widely held perception that giardiasis is a significant risk to backpackers in the United States. In some respects, this situation resembles (the threat to beachgoers of a) shark attack: an extraordinarily rare event to which the public and press have seemingly devoted inappropriate attention.” -Yosemite Publication No wonder I stay away from those dang beaches.

Fuck. Again? That is so terribly sad. Really humbling as well. Seems like they were up there too late, especially considering the conditions. I will definitely never be caught up there again in above freezing temps, not this time of year at least. I offer my condolences to Brooke's family and friends.

JDJ-why do you keep talking? I know you think you know everything, But contrary to what you say I'm going to keep purifying my water with iodine, I don't mind the taste and haven't yet to get sick from it. now I know what you're going to say, you won't get sick from the water, because ppl carry it, however I don't care. i'm not inclined to take my chances because there are a few "research" articles that claim you won't get it outdoors, especially when I know people who have experienced otherwise. If one looks hard enough one can always find "facts" to support a preconceived hypothesis. Chances are your cites are done by biased researchers who misinterpreted statistically irrelevant information to make a quick buck publishing the rubbish. I really think either Iodine or other tabs are the best bet for lengthy trips in the backcountry. Even if in places with pure water, better safe than sorry.