rocky_joe

Maine-iac and I were up near and on Diamond Peak this weekend and we very nearly had the smae thing happen to us. I mistepped on a large backpack size rock and it took a b-ine for tom. Luckily he was aware and had room to get out of the way, but man I feel so bad for this climber's family and friends. It really is a tragedy.

Any word on snow, ice, general route conditions? Pics?

oh and 111. there is a 12a...the pinscar R. of hard layback. and a 13c. called Crack-a-no-go (the short one L. of Limpdick).

you need to get on 5 climbs for sure at the columns. in the middle the hand crack is called Fat Crack 5.9 super bomber all the way up. just to climbers right is a 5.10 finger crack named Hard Layback. Total blast just do what the name suggests. All the way to the right is 5.10b Limpdick (minus 7 feet of freshly removed basalt). On the lest side of the main section is the chimey. so fun i think it fetches 5.8. and then two cracks right of that is a fun 10. lots of good finger cracks and you can make any variation you desire. check out the guide book: Rock Climbing Oregon: Willamette. you can get it at REI or stop by the UO outdoor program in the EMU (student union)

that's good to hear. i'd been hearing worse. so it's nice to get some easier reviews of the climb. i'm more of a rock climber starting into alpine so a class 4 shouldn't give me much trouble and i love the exposure...nothing lie the 4th pitch on "Wherever I May Roam" at smith. looking foward to my climb and thanks again guys.

I'm headed to diamond lake for a weekend trip and wanted to summit thielsen (solo) while i'm over there. i've been reading a lot and still haven't a good idea if it's a safe venture alone sans rope. any input?

thanks for all those shiny new bolts, it's greatly appreciated. does anybody know how the bolts are at Hill Creek Spires?

thanks guys for all your advice. definitely some good stuff to consider here. oh and i get the feeling that some people might think i want to solo this...i don't. i'm no where near competent enough to solo anything that is more than a hike. the whole idea of doing this is up in the air, but i figured that i'd make sure i don't get in over my head. thanks for all your responses, i've definitely gained a lot of perspective on what it is gonna take.

yeah i wasn't planning on doing it in one day. two was my goal. and i hadn't really though about broken top. but i'm really just looking for an answer to my questions: 1. what is the best (safest) way to get from the north descent of middle sis to the south ridge on n. sis w/out having to snowshoe down to the timberline? 2. What are the best (safest) ways to attack the n. descent/ascent of n. sister?

yeah, i wasn't planning on crawling. i'm looking for beta. like how technical the climb is, should i rope in, which ridge i should take to get to south ridge from middle sis. etc. sweatin: double traverse is a traverse times two. so start at south sis, climb all three to the far north side of n. sis and then retrace to south sis trailhead.

So I'm really interested in doing a double traverse of the Sisters in a few weeks with a few buddies. I don't have much alpine experrience but am really intrigue by the idea of it. I have read a few guide books and am looking for some beta on how to go about the saddle between middle and north sister. I want to go up the south ridge route on the N. Sister.