rocky_joe

get on ropes and climb bunches of 5.8s & 5.9s. climb until you're so pumped you can't make a fist. do this a few days and go back to that last V1 that gave you grief. It'll go. the ropes will give you slightly easier, but more sustained movement (power endurance). But since routes take longer to climb you will also learn to be efficient on the "rock." At the V1-V3 level climbing is not so much about single move power but technique, movement and (?) endurance. good luck and have fun.

what is that third photo? it is AMAZING!

not in the military. and yeah he is using an the body builder in an illustrative manner...i'll break it down for you. --body builder isolate muscles to work specific muscles. --climbers need to isolate certain muscles that are specific to climbing. --hangboards isolate those muscles. --climbers should use hangboards. work now? (before you ask, that one didn't come from my rigorous elitist military past).

Everyone else, thanks for the links. I've used the articles you guys gave, advice from a friend who climbs 13d, and 8a. hopefully i've got a good healthy routine worked. this is what i've come up w/ to do 2-3x/week. jug-pulls-5 2finger pocket-pulls-5 medium edge-pulls-5 sloper-pulls-5 jug-hang-20sec 2 finger pocket-hang-15sec jug-negs-3-5 med edge-hang-15sec sloper-hang-15 sec med edge-lock offs-20sec 2 finger pocket-negs-3 small edge-hang 10 sec jug-pulls-5 takes about 15 mins when done in a 3 person rotation. i may end up changing some stuff as i go along and get some feed back from my fingers.

Kimmo, you should probably not make ridiculous claims like that military one. Pretty far-out and baseless. And about that body builder thing, the author used body builders as an illustrative point. Hangboards are not high on the list of things body builders do.

So I have a pretty decent routine right now on the hangboard. Looking to maximize my time in the gym (3-4x/week for 2-3hrs) and wondering if anyone has any advice as far as hang routines go?

Or maybe you're just buying a sterling rope cuz they're the shit. i mean, just cuz i see sharma sending in evolvs doesn't mean i'm ever gonna climb outdoors in them. (although i will admit they are my gym shoes cuz they're comfy and always like $25 at scratch and dent.) But on topic: i think sponsorship is of net benefit to the sport. I mean it makes getting gear for top climbers a lot simpler, lets them climb more. letting them climb more means more new routes, which means more movies, which provide more than ample stoke. Also, I'm definitely more likely to look into (not necessarily buy) and product used by someone like House, Trotter, Gadd, Papert, etc.

I do 40-70 a day (in sets of 5-10) but still suck. Oh to live in spain.

great write up!

Wimsey, awesome write up. I would like to apologize for any grief I've given you in the past about the traverse (I thought, originally, that you were some stuck up bend-based california migrant). please forgive. And congrats on the record.

yes. the SNL guy sucks. need a new one.

yeah, except neither of those quotes have a thing to do with Obama being awarded the prize. He hasn't done anything. [video:youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mMR9Ztva58

oh, ha, i suppose i should learn to differentiate 6's and 9's. well, good for potter, very very impressive mark. I'd personally be happy to get it under 15hrs.

how much you want ppl to pitch in?

so, if Potter went 6:39 and Thompson also went 6:39, how does Potter's time break the record?

awesome stuff and great photos.

yes please! can't wait.

if i had money, I'd be there. also, water ice tools...need those for this season.

wait for a few more storm cycles and the hill should be nice and solid. and those crumbly choss piles are definitely on this guys list too. good luck, have fun and climb safe. (also post photos!!)

how many "hard mixed lines dude" have you done? and how many of those have you given yourself a "self lobotomy."

hey kenny, I know you're not looking to buy two tools, (and mods don't kill me for doing this) but I was on ebay today and saw a pair of shrikes (adze and hammer) for sale...seemed to be reasonably pirced as well. came up when i searched ice axe. hope it helps your shirke's quest for a mate.

poster says rental gear sale may include ice tools...what sort will be up for grabs?

mods...please ban the boy. until then, jdj...you're an ass. don't know many "rich" climbers who enjoy being "fleeced.' in fact I know very few, if any who are stoked to have to pay retail, so they find ways not to. and to those who do pay retail, thank you for keeping the companies who make great gear afloat...also I'll be looking to swipe you're old gear for a steal at the next big gear swap (or from the yard sale). one more thing...john, you're an ass.

The final photo is taken from the base of the last rappel. super clean granite with some interesting cracks...wonder if any of it has been attempted.