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Everything posted by dougd
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[TR] Lewis Peak - West face(ish) up, down NW ridge 1/27/2014
dougd replied to JasonG's topic in North Cascades
Thanks Jason. I enjoy the thought provoking TR's the most, and this is a good one.Your pictures as always are really beautiful. I can relate to much of what you write about the continual evaluations we should make on our personal involvement in mountaineering. In my case, I discovered there was an alpine climber inside of me in the mid 70's, only after I had a beautiful wife and two kids. Climbing was not just an activity I could discontinue once I got into it. My wife and I have found ways to deal with it. She is not a climber. It helped that I have always been able to return to her. One concession I made was getting a GPS a few years ago. I go back and forth on the technology vs adventure issues… I've certainly had my share of close calls and have had the mountains take friends and acquaintances over the years. And I know I've had my share of luck too. The mountains have given me so much, and at the same time I wonder how much longer I should pursue, what is definitely a young man's (and woman's) game. I am in my 60th year now and continue to train, and plan for the upcoming season. My family includes grandchildren now. Seems like I read stories about good, "experienced" climbers dying on climbs more frequently than I ever have before. Usually guys in their 50's somewhere... The challenge, and the fun, is pushing ourselves to grow as human beings and for me the mountains provide a way to facilitate that. So, for now, I will continue. d -
This is, IMO, one of the most beautiful N Cascade peaks. Nice job on this winter ascent of the N Face so early in your climbing evolution. The pics and write up are really good. I bet you'd enjoy the Cooper Spur on Mt Hood someday. Preferably when it has more snow than this year. Don't be too reticent to submit the gratuitous TR here in the future. Someone, somewhere, will find value in it… d
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East Ridge of Devil's Thumb Presentation -Portland
dougd replied to Avalanche_Lilly's topic in Events Forum
I'm bummed I'll miss this one too! No chance to move it to super bowl weekend probably… d -
A familiar name appears in these prestigious awards this year… Congratulations and good luck Jens and crew! http://www.climbing.com/news/36000-in-mugs-stump-awards-announced/ d
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"burned"? Put the post up there mr archivist. Should be an easy little project for you. You do jump around man, I was lamenting folks calling folks liars without giving them the benefit of doubt for possibly making a mistake and you come up with this… wow Yes, I was one of the many Americans advocating trials for bush, cheney, and anyone else involved in in any way, the torture of prisoners captured in the "war on terror"… Others have been convicted in past for waterboarding people as a war crime. Put them in the justice system and let them defend that. A lot of us were wondering why not these guys? Why not now? That ship has sailed. It ain't gonna happen. Our current president didn't feel that would have been worthwhile somehow. I disagreed with him on that. Still do. dubya's presidency for the most part is difficult to defend IMO but you go ahead on… I didn't agree with much of what he did, or tried to do. He was without a doubt the worst president I have seen in my lifetime. Truth is, none of these guys are gonna be anything close to perfect. It's a tough job for a lot of reasons. I did like his strong push for Immigration Reform toward the end of his second term. That bill should have passed. He fought hard for it too. He also gets credit for fighting the scourge of AIDS in Africa along the way… I try not to pine for the good old days as I age but it's tough sometimes. I will commit to trying harder to heed your request not to read your posts though. I find you often make little sense, and it is a waste of time for me. d
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Too many people too easily call someone a liar these days. Instead of giving someone the benefit of a doubt, or just first off say, well, maybe they misspoke, or simply made an honest mistake in what they said… Whatever happened to a simple assumption that someone might be trying their best in difficult circumstances, being fallible as are the rest of us maybe making a mistake… Of course these cyber hero's never do it to someone's face. Might get their asses kicked doing that. I do miss the old days sometimes, when men would throw down, consequences be damned… d
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YUM! I keep a good knife in my rig always… Just in case… d
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Bummer about the thefts and the wrecked car no doubt, but at least you got some good eating deer parts out of the deal… You DID get the backstraps and liver out of that 5pt didn't you?! d
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Texas Republican Congressman Randy Neugebauer ladies and gentlemen... Saw that vid on NBC nightly news tonight. The stupidity, and arrogance, of these people seem to know no bounds... d
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funny, mine has me on her *blocked* list now i think Mine, (5th district), no longer responds to my entreaties/inquiries... She remains quite comfortable in her position, without my support. She wins out here with about 65% of the 20 or so % of registered voters bothering to send a ballot in... What we are seeing in contemporary American politics, in general, is well earned by an indifferent and/or uninformed constituency... What we are also seeing is a class war between corporate America and the working class. And I still think Ried takes Boener in a fair fight. On this we will disagree my friend d
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no shit? really? Oh yeah, Reid's a tough little bastard. Did you not see the pic above?!
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I say we put Reid and Boener in a room, and let them go at it. Winner take all on the ACA, budget and the debt ceiling. My money would be on Reid... Boener's a pussy. Anyone with half an eye could see it... d
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Good advice above, especially about following the post surgical directions of Doc and Physical Therapist. In 2009 I had shoulder surgery for a labral tear. My tear, and other issues, were extensive, and a reconstruction was necessary. I was 55 yrs old at that time. I got back to climbing and other activities ahead of the timelines the Doc had for me. Hopefully your daughter is able to do the same. Her age is definitely to her advantage. I hope your daughter gets in to see a PT asap after surgery. I did not do this and suffered through complications because of it. I was told in post op not to move the shoulder much. In the intervening 6 weeks I had scar tissue build up in the shoulder. At the 6 week appt with the surgeon, he recommended another procedure to remove this. I declined, and insisted on getting in to the PT to help me break it down... This was very difficult, but we were successful. I should have been doing more initially under the supervision of a PT than I was... One last thing. I don't like to take meds. But some of the best advice I got was not to scrimp on recommended doses initially or quit them too soon. Post op meds are really important and I was glad I did not try to get off of them too soon... d
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Don't forget the all important CYA... d
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We CAN all agree that trad climbers shit don't stink can't we? C'mon now, it's the common ground we're all seeking...
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Yeah, but it doesn't stink, so as not to be offensive...
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Very nice work you two. Thanks for posting the story & pics. d
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+1
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So true. Very sad to hear about this. My sincere sympathy to his friends and family. d
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Thanks for posting this very refreshing TR. d
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Only in Oregon is shist stacked that high... BTW, early spring is good for the spur IMO. Winter's good too but... d
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I remember that 5.8 finish was a bit of a scrap to lead cuz it was dripping wet that day... Fun climb. Sorry for the thread drift. Thanks. d
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first ascent [TR] North Hozomeen Mtn - Zorro Face, IV 5.9 8/31/2013
dougd replied to lunger's topic in North Cascades
Congratulations indeed. I really enjoyed this TR. Enjoy the afterglow fellas! d