dougd

Nice to see a TR of any kind finally... Thanks for posting up. It was good to see that you learned a lot on this attempt. I always felt that was the most important thing, the learning part... Surviving, getting better, smarter... Many ways to calculate success in the mountains. Always beginning with survival. d

The first axe I bought back in the '70s had a lash up like that. I retired it a long time ago but still have it, it's one of those long ash handled ones and its too heavy to carry around now... I liked it back then because I'm tall, and I didn't really know any better. I leash my (short, hollow metal handled) axe to my harness now using some 3/8 webbing. I find it's easier to manage overall. The leash is long enough so that I can extend my arm over my head when needed. I've looped slack around my wrist when traversing or switchbacking on easier slopes and it works ok. I definitely want the axe to be able to drag clear if I happen to fall and it comes out of my hand. Thankfully, that hasn't happened. This is mostly a matter of experience and personal preference. Good luck on your future in climbing, another dinosaur

I've got a cousin or three that have reoccurring wet dreams of going out in a blaze of glory should the man show up at their collective doors to take their guns away. They've got lots of friends and even more guns. I'm not so concerned with the Nancy Lanzas of the world having these kinds of guns but my relatives back n the Midwest scare the shit out of me with their military/police/eagle worship. They shouldn't even be allowed to own pointy objects they're so fucking nuts. This is a hill I think a lot of the gun nuts are willing to die on. Especially given their feelings towards the re election of that black dude and their very justifiable concerns that the country seems to be turning against their bullshit in general. And...they are breeding like nymphomaniac rabbits. I don't think we can legislate our way out of this one. I do wonder just how many of these heroes will be willing to die for such a cause when the fecal matter actually hits the fan... I can agree that legislation alone will not cure this societal ill... Many, including me believe we have to do something. It's a start in the correct direction and something that seems at least possible after the most recent slaughter of innocents... The nra thinks we should arm teachers now? Now that's insane. Ivan feel free to weigh in here...

"So now what?" Good question Kirk. I wish I had the answer... I think realistically we start with legislation banning military style assault weapons, high capacity magazines, closing loopholes like gun show sales, tighten up background check systems, look at requirements for gun owners with kids living at home, and better treatment of our mentally ill in this country. How realistic this short list is given political realities these days? I don't think I'd be betting any of my hard earned dollars on any of it getting done... The guns that are already out there? I guess they just stay out there, rounding them up would be pretty tough. d

I was not looking forward to the crowds for our trip but as it turned out, interacting with people from all over the world ended up being a large part of the fun. There was a group of Swiss I think that when we summited Gokyo Ri they were singing and clapping for us upon our arrival. Very cool... The weather was mostly shitty on our trip but this day was pretty nice for us. Everest from the summit of Gokyo Ri in '04. W Ridge... As I enjoyed this view, I thought about Unseld and Hornbein on that first ascent in '63...

Jason, thanks for the advice. We'll keep it in mind when the time comes to get back to Asia. I agree with Tyson, for the near future, we'll stay in the US... d

That is a very cool pic Scott. I highly recommend the Everest trek for the over 50 crowd. I did it in '04 with a friend. We did a big loop up from Lukla through Gokyo, hiked up Gokyo Ri, then over Cho La pass to Labuche to Gorakshep, hiked up Kala Pattar then headed down through Tengboche, Pheriche etc... I used to think it would be cool to climb Everest, but as things are now not so much. The trek was a great experience all round though and not as expensive as one would think. We used Airline points to get us to Bankok and back which reduced the out of pocket costs significantly. Just to see those mountains was enough for me. I'd like to go back someday and do the Annapurna trek with the wife... d

Context, in this part of the gun debate is important I think. In 1791 the second amendment was ratified. America was not far removed from the revolutionary war. Britain was a belligerent world power, not to mention still pissed off about losing said war. The war of 1812 was a ways off in the future but it happened, and is helpful in a contextual sense as an indication of the times this young republic was experiencing. The tyranny referred to in proper context is not rationally applicable to contemporary American Government. It's used as an excuse by "gun rights advocates" to justify and perpetuate unnecessary possession of weaponry primarily used in war. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_Amendment_to_the_United_States_Constitution#Ratification_debates I don't think another constitutional amendment is necessary to "fix" the second amendment, nor is "repeal" appropriate. Proper interpretation is all that is needed. To my knowledge, a case for or against "military style assault weapons" has not reached the courts. The Supreme court has fairly recently struck down a DC law banning handguns, allowing possession in an individual's home for personal protection, but that's as close to we've gotten to a real interpretation of the second amendment. I'm willing to leave this interpretation where it was meant to be, in the courts, not some joe posting on a BB on the web... d

Enjoyed the blog/pics. I work out at Oz here in Spokane with a guy named Ben that looks a lot like you man... d

I think an important part of the discussion nationally is proper treatment of the mentally ill, and the funding for it. My exposure to the mental health system is not limited to the year I volunteered at a large mental health facility answering phones on a first call for help hot line. We triaged/referred patients and helped family members in crisis. It was overwhelming. The calls never stopped and many of them were gut wrenching. Last night on TV, I listened to a mental health professional try to explain the inadequacies of mental health policy nationally. She explained that for at least a couple of decades, treatment has been mostly about drugs and less about other treatment options. I witnessed this during my short time in the system. I hope this discussion continues and that we can improve funding which will enable mental health professionals bring to bear the full range of treatment options for the folks who need them. Think about that if you find yourself on the tax cutting bandwagon, advocating cutting services for folks like these... I have been convinced for a long time that military style assault weapons should be banned for civilians. I believe the 9th circuit court of appeals got it right when they ruled that the framers intended guns were intended for a "well regulated militia". I understand that now, definition of these weapons will be challenging for lawmakers but this has to be part of how we change in hopes of preventing similar incidents. I consider myself a responsible gun owner, but if the definition at the end of the day includes my Glock 17, or my Winchester Model 70, so be it. They can have em. Bottom line is we have to change. As a country we can do better than this. We have to try.

Um, it was your question dude... And just what would be hypocritical about calling it as I see it? BTW I'll save you some trouble here, it's a rhetorical question dimwit, no response necessary...

So do you take personal responsibility for the death of your son? I've managed to avoid posting this thread, until now... Probably one of the most insensitive comments I've ever seen kirkw. Sadly, not real surprising coming from you. EOM

+1

You should check out the Spokane Mountaineers. They have a comprehensive mountain course that I believe starts in March. It's a commitment, but well worth it IMO especially for beginners. Freedom of The Hills is included in price of admission. Great way to get started and meet like minded people. http://www.spokanemountaineers.org/ d

lol

Darn!

A midget ("little person") could just scrunch up in one corner, leaving folks like us the rest of the tent. I'm 6'5" and my partner and I (no, he's not a midget) went in on a Big Agnes, I think it's the Cooper Spur 3 man and it works well, very roomy and light... Midget climbing partners are pretty hard to find, granted... d

Agree w/MtnMatts assessment. Climbed the gully a year ago Sept, it was 4th with a couple 5.easy moves I'd say. I was wearing climbing boots at that time. It might be getting more interesting up there this time of year though, ya know? Get a partner or two & go have a look. It's a fun day trip and a great workout. d

Beautiful image of the N Face John... Granite Peak is definitely worth a look IMHO. This is a wild, tough part of the country. It is a long ways in to this peak and that's part of what makes it special. Places like this are in short supply in the lower 48 anymore. sigh d

Maybe we can get that snow cat to run you guys up there... I hear it's really awesome! d

Scott, I enjoyed the TR & pics. I can tell you from experience that, above shale, the ridge vs the boulder field might be a little better, but I found both to be unpleasant. Last time I was up there I took the ridge up, and boulder field down... I also turned around at the red saddle. The traverse was all iced up at that time and, while I was prepared for that, the rocks clattering down across that traverse at 10am was enough for me. I was alone, and a bit late. Should have been up there at day break or earlier. Good idea to take a bearing at shale. That was smart. I think about going back sometimes. It's a pretty mountain (and a slag heap). If I do go back, it will most probably be early spring, from the North... d

Germany practically gives this stuff away. A great bier, and true value at ,74 Eur/.5 liter... Their Unions successfully negotiate lunchtime beer drinking rights into their contracts... Now THAT'S havin' your shit together... Nothin wrong with PBR but I prefer Kokanee by the case from costco @ $17 as an alternative to some of the great IPA's I enjoy from time to time... d

haha Princess, You're very kind. Truth is, I'll turn 58 later this month. My real strength comes from my ability to accept mediocrity I think. Good luck, d

I uploaded extreme alpinism on my kindle and am about half way through it. I recognized some of the stuff in the book I'd been doing for years but the detail Twight get's into is really deep. I have a few book marks in it already. I had read kiss or kill recently and really enjoyed it so thought I'd try extreme alpinism and have found it really eye opening. I'm getting a lil older and wanting to keep climbing for a few more years... Training this body is a lot different than my 30 yr old body, so this knowledge will help I'm sure... fwiw d

Or... "What is Arizona, for $200, Alex." Too funny, too true...