dougd

'bout the only thing I don't miss out there is that fucking poison oak... Just reading about it makes me itch... Anybody ever get up the N face of Broughton's anymore? d

Scott thanks for the TR. Excellent Images. I have no idea how you do this, I am not a photographer but I really enjoy looking at them. The percid meteor shower at Camp Pan pic, looks as if an apparition visitation is occurring... Very cool. This TR brings to mind a 4 day backpack trip I took many years ago into the Staircase area. The Olympics are really beautiful. I saw the biggest black bear I've ever seen in the wild on that trip. Man, he was a big one. I'm gonna have to look into that Gorilla Tape too. Maybe better than the duct tape I have on the trekking pole I carry now... Thanks again for posting. d

Lots of beta on this route on the web and cc.com... I found this write up useful. http://www.climbingwashington.com/classics/mtstuartwestridge.htm Cairns were easy to find yes, lots of em up there, they're helpful, sometimes... I try not to trust em too much... The E Ridge/Cascadian is the way most folks seem to descend so, with neither of us being all that familiar with this range decided to go that route. As Cecil mentioned above he carried a borrowed GPS with a track installed that we followed down and that I found counterintuitive... The E Ridge descent wasn't bad but once we found the jump off point (cairn there), that first part was steep choss but as we got down further the walking wasn't bad and we cruised along pretty well. About 1/3 - 1/2 of the way down that track took us W across a boulder field (no cairns or signs of fresh track 'cept for goats), I think we left the Cascadian here, and SSW down more steep gullies then finally to another boulder field to a brushy trail (cairn here and plenty of sign of other folks goin thisaway) that dumped us out at the Ingalls Cr Trail at a really nice CG. Wasn't far West then to the Longs Pass trail cutoff... We had one swallow apiece left when we reached the creek and it'd been a while since we had had a real drink... We had 2 liters apiece for the climb. When we decided to head out together from my bivy we knew it was going to be a thirsty day. Three liters per each from Ingalls Lake for a c2c would have been good I think... 1st time climbing the route? I guess I'd recommend the Cascadian but I'm going to be working harder on an alternatives for future climbs, and there will be future climbs, in the area... good luck! d

For the two short sections we pitched out, we used my 8.5mmx30m alpine rope... Worked well...

Here's a few pics for reference... Mt Stuart from Ingalls Lake... The gatekeeper's bivy on route at the base of the beautiful granite gully... We saw nice bivy spots all over this route... Note food bag hanging. Cecil walked through that gap and says hello. Scared the shit out of me... Cecil nearing the top of the gully, comin' on up! Cecil running out the short, low 5th pitch (left side) up long john tower. Me following the upper part of this pitch, huffing and puffing... Nearing the W Ridge notch! Got some climbing left... Summit views, Ingalls Peaks/Lake below. East Ridge behind us, looking down the motherfucking cascadian... After the initial surprise (and re starting my heart that had stopped momentarily) of hearing a voice saying "hello" as I started to wrap up camp, and ensuing discussion that essentially was Cecil motivating me to go for it, we climbed this mountain. Couldn't have asked for a better partner (a bikini clad Avalanche_Lilly notwithstanding). Thanks Cecil!

Nice indeed! This one looks to be right in my wheelhouse! Thanks for sharing. d

Next time try looping a couple stoppers over the trigger if ya can hon. Might work... I like your style, keep em commin' d

After climbing the W Ridge Thursday the 22Aug there's no snow to deal with on route or descent of Cascadian. There is a nice ice patch down off the East Ridge a short way if one wanted to take the time to chop some and melt some water or something, but easy to avoid climbing wise. No crampons or ice axe needed... d

Sigh, tell me about it... Thanks for posting the TR. The pics were umm, very nice! d

AND, you beat that broken down old man's time from a couple years ago! Schweet!

Reading this story, I am reminded of when I first heard of Johannesburg Mountain, through tellings here about Mr Kloke's affinity for it. I did not know him. Nor have I climbed it, yet. I've checked it out and can see it is the real deal. Your story also got me to thinking about one of my favorite quotes... “How to get the best of it all? One must conquer, achieve, get to the top; one must know the end to be convinced that one can win the end - to know there's no dream that mustn't be dared. . . Is this the summit, crowning the day? How cool and quiet! We're not exultant; but delighted, joyful; soberly astonished. . . Have we vanquished an enemy? None but ourselves. Have we gained success? That word means nothing here. Have we won a kingdom? No. . . and yes. We have achieved an ultimate satisfaction. . . fulfilled a destiny. . . To struggle and to understand - never this last without the other; such is the law. . .” George Mallory Thanks for sharing your story. Glad you were able to meet the challenge of this fine mountain, and hope your shoulder isn't hurt too bad and heals well. d

To each his (or her) own of course... Even when soloing, I always carry a rope and some glacier/rescue gear on a climb like this, in case (dog forbid) someone needs help... d

+1 I know a broken down old man that did a car to car on Shuksan a couple years ago in 13 hrs. He thought the mileage was closer to 18 tho... Good luck, d

Nice work Marlin and Chris. Love the view! d

Looks like fun, the pictures are great. Looks like my kind of country. Kind of curious how the E Butt of SEWS thing went too... d

Enjoyed the pics and write up Water. Thanks for posting it. d

I was thinking seriously about going with my 5.10 approach shoes with aluminum crampons, and carry the fire's up with me. Might be a little light for a first time but I think I could do it. Wish I was able to join you on this one Marlin. Good luck. d

Glad to see that old frayed boat rope up that cliff band to the lower saddle on the Grand has been replaced. Last time I was there I slid down that thing in a good rain. It was kinda messed up... d

Overcoming our fears to succeed in the mountains provides a greatly enhanced sense of accomplishment, and the lessons learned are carried forward into life. Success to me is defined as a safe return with lessons learned. Good job team, especially Steve. d

Great TR for sure. Congratulations!

Looks like a great trip, and still good friends at the end. Perfect. Moon over Fury, and Southern Pickets sunset from Swiss pics stand out from the other really nice images. Spectacular country. Thanks for sharing d

I did not know them, but here were two good men, doing things the right way in the mountains who have apparently found their end on this earth on K2. I find it difficult to be sad, after watching the video of their Alaskan tour in 2011... Rest well now. d

Pure.

Forgive me, but I think FAIL is too strong a word in this context... Nice work on the climb. Thanks for sharing the story and pics, excellent! d

+1 C'mon man, we won't tell anybody! d