ScaredSilly

Ditto, WTF. Killing a snake for what reason? That is pretty loser.

Jedi, you are going to have to get in line for old farts on the Cassin - in 2000 when we did it I was the pup at 36 my other two partners were 43 and 51. Our group was called - Old and in the Way. The other groups that year sure loved our steps and the bivy sites we cut out. Well except some young punks who said our tracks detracted from their experience. The old fart that went up the Cassin with us just went up with another old fart and did Liberty for the first time this spring. Their average age was just near 60.

Last I checked much of the Wallowas have been put under the NW Forest Pass. So while you might be able to camp free you will need a pass. That said the Cornicopia Trailhead is free - however there is no car camping. Have you checked out their website - it is pretty reasonable.

You could do that talk to the folks at Rock & Ice. Might be a nice way to get on some of the classics but $$ for it. I would probably just show up and walk down the Carraige Road and bump into folks. Do not forget to get your day permit.

I have passed an bagged RMI client on the DC. It was so sad. The person was just waiting there. They were warm and comfortable and in a safe area. From the sounds of discription I would say that leaving the client was marginial for the conditions. He probably should have had more insulation and shelter. Carrying a sleeping bag and bivy sac would add all of 5 pounds. The guide should have had this anyways. The RMI guides really really make sure that their clients understand that they are not to move from where the leave them for any reason.

WOW - amazing to see things so dry. In M-day of May 2000 when we did the rock bands they were just a few moves of rock that were covered in ice. I almost thought about pro but skipped it. Much of the slope though hard snow was cupped so it was fairly easy. Cool to see some right side pics - we went left which was fun. The exciting part was the step around to the right to gain the upper glacier. Great Exposure. Good fun.

In the past I have bought boots with alveolite liners and skipped the regular liners all together. As folks say they do pack out and get trashed easier than the others. When that happens I just buy another pair and then when they are gone so are the shells. I did that with several pairs of plastics. Nerver found them too warm for other stuff. As for parkas I have Feathered Friend Frontpoint. Good all round jacket for anything in the Americas. I agree with Climzalot that having layers is nice - but there is a balance other wise some stuff will stay in the pack and never be used. I usually have a fleece jacket, one piece climbing suit and a down jacket as my outer layers.

Opposite side of the hill. We traversed over that spot last year on our Mowich climb. Those shoes will be there for a long time as few parties do Mowich let alone come in from that side. It is too bad that the Carbon is still out as for routes on that side of the hill coming in from there is really a better alternative. The traverse around from the Emmons is not that bad either. Are conditions so sucky this year that the snow has not consolidated and snow shoes are really needed ?

I bet the geochemistry final was harder than the face . Nice!

I remember looking over from Ptarmigan watching the a congo line going up LR. Something like 18 people. So for only 10 people on a holiday weekend I would say it was a wilderness experience. There were only 6 including us when we were on it and that was a couple of decades ago.

I agree with the head to toe version. Shoulder to shoulder sucks in a small tent like a Bibler I tent - at that point you totally lose the advantage of having two doors.

Ditto - Axe and a tool. I even schlep my ski poles up with me which was great for the other crap.

This description sounds accurate - somewhere I have photos from when I did the traverse 20+ years ago, also solo. I bivied on the ridge after skiing in about this same time of year. Cool bivy. I can not remember where I started the traverse around other than I went up fairly high. It was a band of snow with a bit of rotten rock which is the scariest part. This lead around to the bowling alley.

Here is another one ... turn around once in a while on the trip in and note the terrian. Ya never know when the way in is also going to be the way out. Even remembering a few things like that funny rock formation or monster crack can give enough of a mental clue of where's Waldo.

Correct, but also do not overly rely on electronics. Like people, batteries go dead. The same goes for even a compass. They too can go tits up. Read the F*CKing maps, descriptions, etc ahead of time and commit it to memory. Take copies along on the climb. The total reliance of GPS is BS try using the thing on top your shoulders besides something to hold your ears a part.

GPS - white out - essential?? Huh? Then how have so many in the past 100 years managed to get off the mtn. in a white out? WTF is that little thingy-a-bobber with a needle that points to the north called?

Actually, there is not much of a controversy. Several parties climbed the coulior in full to where it joins the Harward Route - but they did not or were not able to continue to the summit. Quirk and Nettle were the first to climb the coulior and continue to the summit. At the time a route was not considered finished till you got to the top. Now-a-days it seems anything goes. To me it really should be called the West Face Coulior variation of the Harvard Route. Especially given that the upper part of the route is probably harder than the coulior itself. Either way it does not diminish from the ascent - kudos.

The park is open, the road is closed, if you do a search you would find that it is predicted to be reopened 1 May. As for the weather horrible to rather pleasent. Pay your money take your chances.

Aussie69 ... a few years a I did hike into the park when the Carbon River road was closed. Only climbers on that side of the hill. I really can not understand your point on this - why should we as the general public give up our access to the park while someone who has a paid to be guided up the allowed in? The parks owe no obligation to any concession to ensure their livability the same as the government owes Boeing any obligation when a contract is not renewed. I do feel bad that folks are strugling, sure I do. And if got a chance to go into the park from the westside would I stop and have meal or something, more than likely. But what is difference between me and joe smuck touron who is doing a snow course with IMG?

Have to agree with CascadeClimber on this one. The parks are there for the people not for the concessions to make money. At least the park could do is a random lottery to allow others access to the mountain. No different than other parks with limited resource protections put into place. That I said I do agree perhaps at this point in time allowing personal cars up the might NOT be a good idea. Who is driving the rigs for the concessions? Perhaps the park should require for every two concession tourons they take 1 public touron (and be able to charge them a fair price for the ride).

Anybody done a review of his book? I am really really hoping it is better than the Falcon version. Of course after everyone's review it should not be too hard.

I have done the Ipsut approach 4 times for various north side routes. It is a nice alternative to WR. Coming back around from Schurman is good fun - last trip we saw a heard of goats and a bear, another trip some Ptarmigans (after doing Ptarmigan Ridge). Yeah it is a bit longer, but hey it is all training. I have also hiked in one March when the Carbon River Road was closed during the previous flood. It was not any big deal it added an extra 2 hours of hiking. So I guess I have done the math QED

Actually, the opposite. Brad took a lot of equipment with him often spending months on the glaciers surveying and photographing. What is amazing is that they schelped that gear all over the place including to the top of the peaks and managed to do things in good style. Most climbers today would be crushed by their style. I can not remember on which trip to Denali but they had just summited the South Peak and were camped at the Pass. It was a nice day so they decided to climb up to the North Peak - it was Brad's birthday. Both Brad and Barbara are remarkable people. Some of the other couple's like Bob and Gail Bates, and Ad and Ann Carter, Charlie Houston and his wife have done some amazing traveling. Their stories are wonderful glimpes into an era that is no longer.

One blue bird sunday in October of 1992 I climbed the CS route. I was the only person on the hill. It was quite amazing as the weather was wonderful as were the conditions - I decended the SS and still found no one. Though I did run into a few folks on Elliot Galcier on the way back. The Times article was a nice follow up.

Skip Utah and Ski Vail - sorry wrong forum. In Feb everything in under snow or wet. About the only place you will find something is perhaps in the Virgin River Gourge area.