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gertlush

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Everything posted by gertlush

  1. ahem...Salt Lake City...cough cough
  2. May I also recommend the North Gully? Suitable only for the most discerning of adventurers, you won't be disappointed
  3. Still no explanation what is that thing in the picture, Flamethrower? Jetpack?
  4. Everything else around was solid, no activity even on Brohm ridge. Higher up on Garibaldi it looked like the slab continued so that was a factor on us turning back.
  5. It was kind of weird on the glacier around there because with all the wind scouring not too much snow had been deposited. When we dug our bivy pit we hit a layer if dirt about a foot down. Once we got closer to the face on Garibaldi though the snow conditions got a little funkier. The slide was on a 35-40 degree slope with a crown of about 3-4 inches and 2-3 metres wide. A lesson learned anyways and you're right, it's not going anywhere.
  6. Trip: Mt. Garibaldi - NW Face Date: 3/2/2008 Trip Report: Good times; we skinned up from the car at 400m to the snowmobile lodge at 1400 odd metres, fairly ass as I'm sure you can imagine. From there some kindly sledders gave us a ride to the end of Brohm (next one I meet gets a beer!!) and proceeded to carve up the slope: We found a nice bivy up on the glacier that night. The next day we went up to the peak and started bootpacking at the right side of the bergschrund. At the base of the rockband in the middle of the pic we set off a class 1 slide which piled up around the 3rd member of our party who was taking off his skis below. That got us thinking so we turned around and went home, & what a run down that slope . A good experience all round and too bad on missing the summit. Gear Notes: skis & poles Approach Notes: Get a sled!!!
  7. It's not like Whistler was a big secret really...what's a few more tourists?
  8. Here's a picture from June last year in the Joffre Lakes area..we had to hike up to the lakes but good skiing from there. However that was the trip where the work to fun ratio finally tipped away from skiing Oops, forgot to add that this is more like 3-4 hours drive from Vancouver.
  9. I thought you'd already sorted those bastards out?
  10. Back in 1903 lard = GU , and the taste hasn't really improved all that much in a century.
  11. I seem to recall it mentioning that in the 1st edition of West Coast ice. That's one hell of a hike from Vancouver
  12. Hmm, with the lack of obvious jowls/chin fat he's definitely not a US citizen
  13. What kind of bindings are you on? Did they release? Did you get a thanks for rescuing the heli-ski client?? Thanks for posting this, I can be a bit blase about the avvy danger but this kind of a thing is a stark reminder.
  14. Cool, looks like a good winters day
  15. You'd be surprised actually: linkz What's worse? Paying Arab fanatics who hate the US or a bunch of hockey playin hosers?
  16. Thought this might be kind of interesting given there are a couple of threads re: Congress' investigation of MLB. Article Bonds and Ullrich: Lessons for Climbing Jan Ullrich has earned an easy retirement. After winning the ’97 Tour de France at age 23 he became a German national-hero. For the next five years he battled Lance Armstrong earning a record five second-place finishes, too bad for him but it sure made for great racing. This year it was revealed that DNA samples collected during a Swiss justice department raid at Ullrich’s house matched 9 bags of blood in Dr. Werner Fuentes’s office. Dr. Fuentes, of course, is the doctor who was providing performance enhancing drugs to a number of now-indicted criminals ... I mean ... professional cyclists. The cycling authorities have destroyed the most famous bike race in the world. From now on, every time a champion dons the yellow jersey the rest of us are left wondering: Is that athlete successful today because of hard work and careful training and talent? Or is he doping? Barry Bonds is slowly and surely working towards breaking the most hallowed record in baseball, Hank Aaron’s 755 career home runs. (Bonds has 751 as of today) To say that Bonds has been a dominant player is an understatement. Since 2006 Bonds leads the major league in career walks (2,454) and intentional walks (656), he ranks 2nd in extra base hits (1,417), 3rd in both at bats per home run (12.9) and runs (2,175), 4th in total bases (5,872), 5th in RBI (1,960), I could go on, but you get the point. Through its inaction, Major League Baseball has destroyed the most-loved record in baseball. Why? Because every time Barry swings his bat all we see is a cheater. Because enforcement is so difficult, it seems the only way out at this point is to change the rules and make all doping legal. They’re going to do it anyway, you might as well let them. That is as long as the incentive to succeed at any cost is there. Let the viewers and the enthusiasts decide whether or not to support such games. Hopefully people will finally get fed up with these childish antics and go grab a bike, or better, a climbing rope of their own, and leave the TV and go outside themselves. Climbing itself has a long history of drug use, though the vast majority of it is decidedly not performance-enhancing. However, it is widely assumed that Herman Buhl used some kind of amphetamines during his solo-ascent and first-ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1954. In the late 90’s I personally knew one climber who supplemented with creatine. (remember that craze?) This legal, over-the-counter compound exists naturally in your muscle tissue. Supplementing with it allows you to recover faster and therefore train more frequently. Doping is distasteful because it artificially changes one athlete’s physical reality. It is true that in certain specializations climbers wouldn’t reach their goals without cheating. Yet it remains relatively rare in climbing. Why? I think it is because there is little financial incentive for excelling in climbing. I could count the number of American climbers climbing full-time with sponsor support on the fingers of one hand. This is a good thing. I believe we have a responsibility to ourselves to avoid fostering an environment where people might be tempted to cheat within the climbing/skiing/velocity sports we love. In that vein, we should avoid situations that reek of competition and emphasize the process and the innate power these sports have. And if we do include athletes as ambassadors in our community it is correct that those ambassadors are asked to do real work in contributing to the community. There are two areas of climbing that are threatened by doping’s specter. One is sport climbing. There is no financial incentive to climb 14a – a routine event here at Smith Rock – but if you climb 15a, you have more than enough sponsor-support to climb full-time. If you’re not scared yet, check out 8a.nu, the online scorecard for hard sport climbing (8a is the equivalent of 5.13b in the French grading system and, as I understand it, the easiest redpoint you can add to your “scorecard”). Everest is the other example in climbing where the financial incentive to succeed (to not squander that $60,000 permit) has people doping like fiends. 514 climbers have reportedly summitted Everest so far this year and most (maybe all?) used supplementary oxygen. Sucking O’s is definitely doping. And clearly it is cheating. Not one ascent made with O’s counts in my book. What does this have to do with real climbing? With me? You might be surprised to learn that after Nanga Parbat in 2005 six separate journalists asked me if we had been using steroids or EPO. As I recall, Vince did have to resort to a course of antibiotics to beat a bad case of the shits. And we did consume a few aspirin on the way up the route in seeking some relief from the wicked nighttime headaches that are so common with altitude. And yes, we did carry an emergency supply of drugs in case one of us contracted HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) or HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema). Specifically we carried, but did not use, Diamox and Dexamethasone. But no we didn’t dope. You see, we weren’t there to succeed, we were there to live. And that is a message we should spread and support in the climbing world. Whether trying to redpoint 5.14 or climb Denali’s West Buttress, the summit does not define success. Success is experiencing, feeling, struggling, and learning. So, here’s to a good fight!
  17. hey herdush- are you done shpunking shellac syrup load? i think your search was more along "Split Beaver" lines Haha, if you could get ondra's pee-pee out of your mouth long enough to take a look around you'll see nobody gives a flying rats ass about another tween sending sport climbs. You gonna post everytime some twat sends a v12 at his local gym and posts it on Supertopo?
  18. A brief internet search turns up 10,000 other weenies who have onsighted 9c this, 14d that blah blah blah..what's the big deal about this kid? Does he have downs syndrome case or something? Jeezus there must be 1/2 a dozen beanie wearing turds at the local gym climbing that hard.
  19. Well..almost: avalanches Now we just need one to wipe out that highway to Vancouver. I've stockpiled ammunition, have you?
  20. I for one welcome our new squid overlords and wish to offer my services in rounding up troublesome human elements. All hail the tentacle!
  21. Try telemarktips.com , I've seen lots of threads on there about the 7tms.
  22. gertlush

    Facebook Sucks

    I think maybe the reason they are trying to sell your personal data is they've invested a shit load of cash in this company and need to make some return on their investment.
  23. The conference championships are where the action is. I predict New England 31, Giants 14 halfway through the 4th quarter....right before angry jihadists storm the cockpit of the Goodyear blimp and fly it...ever so slowly...into the New England bench squashing Bill Belichik, enabling the Giants to score a last minute touchdown and cover the spread.
  24. Up to start of Dec had 7 BC and 1 resort..now 8 weeks after breaking my leg I'm gettin back out there this weekend, so happy!! ...
  25. What the hell is that!? ain't it supposed to look like this?
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