boadman

I had a big locking beaner confiscated as "a brass knuckle", I would recommend erring on the side of caution with your rack.

You can also drive in the Teanaway road to the esmerelda basin/lake ingall's trail head and only use one car. You hike up to ingall's lake, over stuart and goat's pass to the CNR. You descend the Cascadian and then hike up over longs pass back to your car. It's pretty straight forward.

Nice!

Several feet of the bottom of your wall won't be usable if you don't put in a kicker. If you've got the floor area it doesn't really matter though, as you can just extend the wall farther out into the space. How much head height do you have? If you don't have pretty good height (10'), I'd recommend just putting in a hang board and a campus board and saving the bouldering wall for the gym... You'll probably get more benefit with a lot less work.

Anyone know if Totem is making their own, or if they're getting them from Fixe-fader?

totem aliens I wonder if they're just re-selling fixes or if they're making them themselves. They look nice!

You're implying that chubby, pasty people don't breed. I think that's a fallacy.

Cool blog & videos. I'm surprised none of the gear junkies have posted this: Steck's Clothes

Reading this thread, I was thinking the same thing. I don't think the start to the 2nd pitch of City Park was unacceptably dangerous before, just maybe a bit spicy. But there's a lot of spicy moves to great pitches at Index I can think of off the top of my head. Are we just going to dumb those down with convenience bolts too? The convenience bolt already existed. There has actually been no change to the route in terms of bolt count.

I think the exact opposite. Sport climbs should be sport climbs. First two bolts should be a meter or so apart, 3.5 or so for the 3rd bolt, add a meter or so for each consecutive bolt if the terrain allows it (ie, no ledges to bonk into). Bolt so that you clip at your waist from a decent stance, ideally, but always shoulder level and below. Then you won't have any issues with decking.

Wow, that's a lot of snow. I did it this same weekend a couple of years ago and the pocket glacier was gone already. Looks like you might actually have to have some glacier gear.

The first time I went to index I was a relatively new climber, and didn't trad climb very well so I was excited when I saw a multi-pitch "sport" climb that was within the realm of feasibility in terms of the grade (Swim). Boy, did I ever get shut down. I'm not sure if I even got the third bolt clipped. I didn't go back to Index for about 4 years.

Both of the cracks are pretty thin and slightly flared. I generally place a nut or two there that I think are decent, but the bolt doesn't seem out of place at index considering the local ethic.

They look like they'd be kind of unstable, they're so skinny. I wonder why they never caught on back in the 80s when ABC was selling them? Maybe if you placed two of them next to each other.

unless, of course, it's not busy getting 12c or d. i think the hydrophobia extension to rainy day women is great; probably 12b or c with the perfect beta. i have always liked leif's dairy freeze at wwi, hard 12b'ish. some people call orgasmatron 12a, and it's really good and long, wwii. smith has more than a few classics in that range. Does Orgasmatron still take a few pieces of gear? I've never gotten around to hiking up and checking it out.

I think that Black Water is more fun than flingus cling at the pet wall. If you're looking for 12-, I would recommend Hang 'em out to dry, just to the right of rainy day. It's really fun. Propaganda is probably the coolest 12 at WW1, but definitely a large step up in difficulty from rainy day. The fifth force at Index gets 12a/b and is a sport climb.

http://www.mountainproject.com/images/35/26/106113526_large_6ee23f.jpg Looks pretty rad, actually. Pretty similar to Rifle.

Anything steep? Any caves with decent rock? Looks pretty slabby.

I'm actually not being sarcastic when I agree that it's a pile. I can't see any reason to go there this time of year when stuff on the west-side is climbable. If you're going to drive to leavy, might as well boulder.

Bummer, I was hoping metolius would step up. Of course, all metolius would have to do is fix their stupid cam angle, go to internal springs, and use 6061 and their master cams would be sexified aliens.

It seems like British climbers and oregon climbers might share a predilection for choss.

I was curious, I googled it, but nothing came up. The stump was clean and furry, it looked pretty surgical to me. I was guessing maybe a car accident and a vet had been involved.

I saw a three legged black bear the other day in the hills east of Mt Vernon.

I'm not sure, I did some desultory web searches, but everything I found is for the new #4, which is like the old 3.5. The old #4 was basically wide fists. A nice tight placement at 4". It's probably just a little bigger than the old WC #5. I would probably take one of those. You probably have 5 right, want to sell one? The large supercam seems like it would be a little too small.

Hi - I'm having a little trouble tracking down an old style single stem camalot #4, does anyone know a cam that's roughly the same size? It's inbetween the currant C4 #4 & #5