boadman

I'm tired of tying and untying my laces in the gym. Anybody have a pair of velcro climbing shoes in decent shape that they're sick of? I wear 43s or so in La Sportive (Katanas, Muiras), 44s in 5.10s (Galileos, Anasazis).

Bump... No one interested in a pair of heavy, unpackable "approach" shoes?

Oh, and stop paying for charter flights?

Ummm, maybe they should go back to work for a while?

Hi - I've got a pair of slightly used La Sportiva Boulder approach shoes. I'm in Seattle, in the U-district. Local, cash transactions only. I'd also trade for a pair of velcro climbing shoes in decent shape, like Katanas.

I really like the merrels, they're super light and pack really small, they hang pretty well on a harness too. I was thinking of trying these as a cheap alternative: http://www.martialartsmart.com/45-35k.html A lot of the parkour kids wear them.

Ooooh, sucky. I hope you find it. It's a bad sign when you don't notice your rack is missing for a month. Either you've got too much gear, or you live in the PNW.

How many days have you climbed on your totems? How many falls have you taken on them? I've got aliens that are 12 years old, probably 30 days/year? At least a fall or two a day? But, I don't aid climb at all, maybe that bashes them up worse.

I'm going to wait until people have been climbing on the totems for a couple of years before I spring for them. Those skinny wires running over the lobes seem like they'd wear out pretty fast.

My only issue with them is that the lack of range. With small cams, range is even more important. I've used them when climbing with friends a couple of times and been annoyed because they just won't go in as many places as my aliens do. The finish and handling seem nice though, like all metolius products.

I don't know how they manage not to pass out. They should be able to do some quirky stupid human tricks, like sit-ups with people standing on their heads.

Wide boyz trailer

Here's a video of a rope cutting test for a unicore and standard rope. It looks pretty convincing: Unicore rope cutting video Another link: beal's description

Yeah, as soon as you can get a knee in, you're good. Until then, I usually get one fist in super deep, with my arm more or less straight in from the shoulder, gaston the edge of the crack with the other hand above, push the sole of my bottom foot against the opposite edge from the one my top hand is gastoning, torque my top foot, and thrutch a few inches at a time. The 11a "offwidth" at nightmare in Squamish is a perfect example of this size for me.

That is a hard size. I usually end up just going really deep and getting sort of horizontal fist arm bars until I can get a knee in. As soon as I can get a knee in, I start doing a more standard arm bar. The trick seems be just accepting the fact that you can't move very fast at all. As soon as you try to do a big move, you pop out. Progress is generally measured in inches.

Dylan Johnson, a strong local climber and talented architect is related to Tao and designed his house for him: http://djaarchitects.com/?page_id=75 It's a cool house, even if it's over-glazed. He also designed the walls at SBP.

I think calling pervitical a 5.11 is kind of stretching it. It's a pretty mellow 10+.

julian saunders - dodgy elbows There's pretty good info there.

I was bummed that there wasn't any footage of the Phoenix at Reel Rock this year.

i think you can still buy them on the egyptian's website

I'd probably get them a size up from your mythos. 41.5s or 42s. They don't stretch nearly as much as mythos.

I had a big locking beaner confiscated as "a brass knuckle", I would recommend erring on the side of caution with your rack.

You can also drive in the Teanaway road to the esmerelda basin/lake ingall's trail head and only use one car. You hike up to ingall's lake, over stuart and goat's pass to the CNR. You descend the Cascadian and then hike up over longs pass back to your car. It's pretty straight forward.

Nice!

Several feet of the bottom of your wall won't be usable if you don't put in a kicker. If you've got the floor area it doesn't really matter though, as you can just extend the wall farther out into the space. How much head height do you have? If you don't have pretty good height (10'), I'd recommend just putting in a hang board and a campus board and saving the bouldering wall for the gym... You'll probably get more benefit with a lot less work.