lepiolet

Thanks all for the beta and info. I kinda figgerd the Sherpa would be out by this time of year. We have considered the Ingalls Lake option. Pete, I read your Sherpa Pass route and this sounds like a viable choice- if we can stay on-route! Do you have a marked topo of the route to Sherpa Pass from Stuart?

Planning to climb the CNR this weekend. Our plans are to begin and end at the Stuart Lake TH, eliminating the two-car option, with our descent being via the Sherpa Glacier. We'll have lightweight crampons with approach shoes (worked great in the Bugaboos a month ago). Looking for some information about the current conditions of the Sherpa Glacier. Many thanks!

Ditto on the thanks for the work put into the routes at Exit 38. Climbed Ellie's for the first time yesterday with my 25- y/o son (yeah, I'm that old!) He lead it onsight, though I was topped. It's a great route and the bolts were great, at the right places, and we found all was tight.

Don't be so quick to judge. Maybe he lost your info and couldn't find you. Anyway, the group may be the Solid Rock Climbers for Christ, who can be contacted at http://www.srcfc.org/. Look for Contacts. I'm sure they'll make good.

I'm planning to climb Mt. Hood for the first time this weekend, via Timberline / Yokum Ridge / Sandy Headwall. I'm not a 'fast and light' climber, more of a 'slogging steadliy' climber so I'm planning for two days. Once up and over the Yokum Ridge onto the Sandy Glacier, are there safe zones in which to set up a bivy? If so, help me locate them. If all goes well, I plan to post a TR and pics when we are done, as I don't see much on this route. . Many thanks.

Thanks for the help. As it turned out we decided to avoid Stevens and embark for the remainder of the peaks, which turned out to be a good decision. On Friday, the weather started out very cloudy and misty, with the marine layer rising and falling on us. In the gully leading toward Unicorn, one of our guys (there were three of us) dislodged several 2- to 4-man rocks onto himself, but managed to get away with only a bruised side and a small gash on the leg. We then continued via the route to Unicorn, then headed directly to Boundary (which we never really saw clearly). by the time we arrived back to Unicorn, the weather held for the rest of the day, and we finished off Unicorn, Foss, The Castle and finally Pinnacle, before the evening squall came through. Saturday started out raining, so we bagged the rest (I've done it a few times before anyway - http://www.briankenison.com/images/154).

Thanks BG, I think I saw that TR somewhere in my travels. From all accounts I've seen, the work to bag Stevens doesn't seem worth the effort. I may have to get out there and scout around the area to specifically find some alternative approaches for subsequent trips that others may take.

OK, I need some info. I've done all the Tatoosh Peaks except Boundary and Stevens. I've done the western half of the Traverse a few times, but I want to complete the full trip in a modest two days. My biggest challenge: getting to Stevens Peak without an epic start, wasting a half a day or backtracking the route. I've looked all I can, but have not found a satisfactory trip report that describes a decent start to the Traverse, Stevens Peak. Any help out there would be appreciated!

Hey, bcollins -- now you KNOW that I had great conditions on Lib Ridge last year!! J and I missed ya!!

Kautz - definitely, when in season. No crowds, plenty of that 'remote' feeling, and, for the way back, you can glissade almost to the Nisqually. (tyr to do that on on the Muir snowfield!)

I was one of the parties that turned back from Muir this past weekend. Jim Wickwire was up there, too and he turned around. Not worth it in the condiditons that were approaching. I'll try again first week in June. I only saw one set of tracks going up the Hazard route, but on the way back I saw much more slide activity into the Hourgalss. I would wait until the snow really stablizes before attemeting the Kautz (my orignal route for the weekend which we decided NOT to do).

Oh, yeah... just this winter, I glissaded the avalanche chute (stable and solid!) from the top of Red Mountain at Snoqualmie Pass - what a kick! 45 degrees and a fabulous runout too!

I agree with the Camp Hazard glissade especially from above the Hourglass down to the Nisqually, even in later season, when the snows to the sides are gone, the glissade run is still good (just stay IN the chute! Ouch!) My other favorite is Mt Elinor.

I agree with the Camp Hazard glissade especially from above the Hourglass down to the Nisqually, even in later season, when the snows to the sides are gone, the glissade run is still good (just stay IN the chute! Ouch!) My other favorite is Mt Elinor.