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boadman

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Everything posted by boadman

  1. Hi - I'd like to by a pre-C4 #4 in good condition. $35 seems reasonable. Thanks.
  2. It will be really easy to hook up with people to climb with at the lower walls at Index. The weather looks like it's going to be pretty great too.
  3. When I was up there a couple of years ago, there was a lot of fixed tat that was super sketchy. The bolts also seems a little suspect in a few places. The 11s kind of sucked. There was a fun 12b/c? (something like that) and a really cool mid 13, seemed similar in difficulty to chronic. I didn't really think it was worth the 45 minute bushwack, and didn't go back. I could see it becoming a worthy destination if people put some work into it.
  4. I was excited to climb. I forgot to close it. We looked back as we walked into the parking lot and decided it was too funny to go back and close. The radio had already been stolen anyways.
  5. 1) I like camping at the rec center a little better, it's got a pool and a hot tub. It's super quiet during the week, too. 2) Depends on how hard you're climbing. Some of the classic moderates, like the grand wall, diedre, UE, will have a couple of parties on them every day in the summer. If you're on slightly harder routes, like Freeway or something, you shouldn't have to worry about lines. 3) Mt Garibaldi is right there, it's a biggish mountain. 4) A nice compromise between liberty ridge and rock climbing would be the complete north ridge of mount stuart. It's a bit of an approach, but the climbing is super fun, and definitely alpine. 50 classics for sure, and the weather can be more dependable than Squish.
  6. I cut my trad teeth at the gunks. I always thought it must be the easiest place for a sport climber to transition into trad because you almost never have to jam. The ratings are definitely stout, but no stouter than Index! Directissima & Doubleissima (spelling?) are definitely among my all time favorites.
  7. I've got an old red petzl hard plastic helmet I'd sell you for $25.
  8. Hey - If anybody heads up to Little Si tonight, post up on conditions. I'm trying to decide if it's worth the drive after work tomorrow.
  9. How many people rock climb in wet, dirty environments?
  10. Metolius cam lube is re-packaged White Lightning. WD-40 can collect dirt. It's a de-greaser, not a lubricant. You could spray them with a little WD-40, boil them, and then apply the lube if you wanted to be really anal.
  11. boadman

    SOLD

    If the helmet purchase falls through, I'll take it.
  12. I use "White Lightning" for my cams. You can get it at most bike shops. It's pretty great.
  13. He is so incredibly fluid. He climbs it like he's rehearsed the route, no hesitation. I don't climb that smoothly on my 50th attempt.
  14. Looks like some of the stuff on the road out to the dorothy lake trail head.
  15. Nay for cragging and alpine, yeah for aid. Although I don't climb aid, so just nay. On granite, usually my rack is small enough that I can easily fit everything on my harness and a sling is just annoying. Maybe if I was climbing a multi-pitch squeeze chimney where I had to switch the gear from side to side I would consider using one.
  16. Bouldering is also a pretty family friendly activity, we've had several family trips to leavenworth & squamish to boulder. The kids have more fun, and it's easier to keep them entertained. Forestland at Leavenworth, and everything at the chief is super good.
  17. Hey - I'd like to get my wife a nice sleeping bag for her birthday. She's short, about 5'2", so I don't need a very big one. Synthetic or down is fine, she sleeps cold though, so I'd like a super puffy one, rated to less than 0 degrees. We mostly car camp and crag at this point, so I'm not worried about weight or packability. pm me if you've got something that might fit the bill. Thanks.
  18. I wanted to try on the TC pros, but then I realized that you live in CO springs. Bummer.
  19. I think you might be able do a short wrap and swing around to climbers left and get to the anchors for the "Left Side" and wrap from there down to the top of the traverse pitch off of Merci Me with one 70m. But, I haven't tried it, so definitely tie some knots in the end! I know you can get down off of the left side with one 70m, because I've done cruel shoes into the left side and rapped from there with one rope.
  20. Sketchy http://www.consumeraffairs.com/recalls04/2011/photon-climbing-carabiners-and-quickdraws-recalled.html
  21. I'd just check craigslist for a pair of old board lasted shoes that fit comfortably. You'll probably be able to climb just as hard after you get used to them. You could even just use them on your injured foot for full style points.
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