boadman

How many of us are actually limited by our diet? I think unless we're approaching our genetic potential, eating a standard healthy diet is going to get you where you need to be...

Generally, if the big wet patch to the right looks as dry from the road as it did yesterday, it's good to go.

If you're there the 21st-22nd, I'd love to play with them.

David Wagoner's patents expired several years ago. What laws could totem be breaking?

I'd buy it.

In general, I agree with you, but there is a sense in your comment that if people are well trained, experienced, and pay attention, mistakes won't happen. This is not actually the case, even well trained, thought-full, experienced, and focused climbers make mistakes. Equipment such as auto-locking belay devices can definitely help reduce the consequences of those momentary lapses. For instance if a belayer suffers rock-fall, bee-stings, heart attacks, dog-bites, a strange twist in the rope, etc an auto-locking belay device would mitigate potentially fatal falls.

I'm curious, who was the manufacturer of the sling? I completely agree with your and Rad's point about personal responsibility. Every time we step off the ground, we're taking our lives into our own hands.

For sport, I'd go with the fatter slings, they're easier to grab when dogging and will last forever. I like the petzl spirits, or the bd live-wires: http://www.backcountrygear.com/climbing/carabiners-quickdraws/quickdraws/black-diamond-livewire-quickdraw.html No hook on the bolt side is super convenient for cleaning over-hanging sport lines, and wire-gates on the rope side is nice for clipping. I also like those two draws because the rope side biner is captured quite tight in the webbing, so it doesn't flop around.

I'd talk to the manufacturer. Sounds funky.

Si always gives me tons of trouble too. The routes are definitely not rated for the onsight.

There was a fellow who pulled a piece and broke both ankles, or heels or something similar a year or so ago.

Some friends of ours have the chariot, the stroller wheel set-up is way better than the Burley's. We've got a Burley that I use a ton for towing the kids around on my bike, but the stroller attachment sucks.

J-tree is pretty reliable, and a nice change from the NW. It's also not too terrible a drive from the PNW.

http://www.backcountry.com/petzl-simba-full-body-harness-kids This is the one that we've got. It seems to work fine and be reasonably comfortable.

actually, the route tyson et al are climbing in these photos is "not sheer strength" (aka "la bamba roof"). "attractive nuisance" is the line to the left with the red quickdraw hanging on it. Yep, you're correct, I didn't closely enough at the pictures.

Attractive Nuisance: Attractive Nuisance

Isn't everyone's favorite Portland Crag located just outside of Bend?

My dad is in town visiting, and I mentioned I thought I might have Dupuytren's Contracture developing. After describing the symptoms, he showed me his hands. He's worked as a carpenter all his life, and has divots on his palm that look exactly like the Dupuytren's pictures on the web. Must have been some randy scandanavians in our background.

What color is your beard?

Ha! That's funny.

I've got two other friends who have dupuytren's contracture. If it turns out that I've got it, then all of us have red facial hair. My 4 data points say that red-bearded male climbers have a 100% chance of contracting this condition.

I have a friend that has Dupuytren's contracture. I've got a lump inbetween my ring and pinky fingers that also showed up a month or two ago and doesn't really hurt when I'm climbing, but seems to swell a bit from climbing. Mine feels like it's on the tendon sheath for the pinky tendon. It's kind of wierd.

The only way for a crack training area to be worthwhile would be if the angle and size of the cracks were adjustable. Otherwise it would be too specific to actually make you better at crack climbing. Unless you were a beginner, I guess. Cracks are so much more fun to climb outside though. I don't really understand why people want to train on them inside.

Goldbar and index seem so much more pleasant.

bump... anyone?