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JonNelson

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About JonNelson

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 11/10/1962

Converted

  • Homepage
    www.storyofsnow.com/blog1.php
  • Occupation
    science-related stuff
  • Location
    Redmond, WA
  1. Spring Mtn

    Too bad about your azz. And I don't know about recent activity at Spring (fantastic place), but at Index, I've been wearing my kama down like mad the past few years. Good thing new ones are available for just $1.50.
  2. Pink Snow

    Sounds interesting. Who is this professor? Do you have any links to some of the background studies? When do they bloom?
  3. State of Cllimbing Report

    It also seems like fewer folks drive up together. Gas is too cheap, it seems, so those 8-10 people hanging out together next to one rope actually came in 8-10 cars, practically filling up the lot. I try to carpool up, but alas, I too often drive up alone. (Though avoid the parking lot.)
  4. Ice density in crevasses on the Coleman Glacier

    Thanks G-spotter for those links. I didn't see anything about the higher-pressure ice deforming less or limiting crevasse depth, but it sounds interesting. I'll look into more later. In my limited reading of ice, I don't recall any definition of "hardness", but I once learned that the grain structure affects the flow properties. Who knows though how any of that related to the guy swinging his pick. I'm not even sure what I said about hardness depending on temperature is right, but there is the interesting phenomenon of regulation, where one can (very) slowly pass a wire through ice at temperatures near the melting point. It is not pressure-melting. It does suggest a "softness" of sorts. Ice is a fascinating material.
  5. Ice density in crevasses on the Coleman Glacier

    I would guess (not being an ice climber), that the perception of hardness might also depend on the rugosity (i.e., bumpiness). The fairly flat ice walls of a crevasse would then seem harder to penetrate even if the inherent hardness was the same as a solid piece of ice with corrugations from drips because you could aim your pick between corrugations and get it to stick better.
  6. Ice density in crevasses on the Coleman Glacier

    The role of pressure is to remove the air. Once the air pockets are gone, the ice is solid, then the pressure has essentially no impact on density. It should be the same as glaze ice that forms over rock without any air bubbles. Ditto for "black ice" on roads--all will have the same density. But the hardness also depends on temperature, with the colder ice being harder.
  7. Does anyone know if this has been climbed?

    Back in about 1988 or so, I climbed up it a few pitches with Isao Fujita. We hiked and scrambled up a gully that had a few tricky spots where we might have gotten out our rope. Then, upon getting onto the wall itself, the rock seemed fine, but did not have the nice crack lines of the more popular walls at Index. So, at the time, we weren't super impressed with the quality. But seeing the stuff people climb on these days, one might regard the rock in a new light. Not having a drill with us, we avoided the blanker face lines and fought through a bit of brush. Some years later, two huge rock falls happened.
  8. Water Filtration: is it necessary?

    I agree with much of what the article's author says. For my last two backcountry trips, I've brought some of the iodine pills to put in the water, but never did that before and have never filtered my water. From what I've seen in restrooms, I suppose that most people do not clean their hands as much as they think they do. And it is bound to be much worse in the backcountry. Also, I am not sure where the idea about fast-rushing streams being safer came from. It's quite the opposite for me, I like to skim the top surface of stagnant water, with the idea that such water has had more UV exposure recently. And no, I've never gotten sick from drinking such water. I do feel a little safer though with the boiled water at camp, and as I said above, I do bring the iodine pills recently, using them for the stream water.
  9. Enjoyable article appeared recently in the Seattle Times about someone who occasionally posts here. Perhaps some of you will enjoy reading and viewing this article as much as I did: https://www.seattletimes.com/pacific-nw-magazine/the-mountains-have-taken-a-lot-from-outdoors-pioneer-lowell-skoog-but-they-always-call-him-back/
  10. Beacon

    Beautiful stuff, thanks. But what is the meaning of "day 42 (aged 42)"?
  11. Cramps

    For a period of a month or two, I had a problem with cramps in my calf muscles. Very painful. But they just seemed to go away on their own. I didn't try ingesting any concoctions, including more water, and am a little skeptical on their efficacy. I googled 'cramps', but concluded that nobody understood them. My guess is that the reported 'cures' are placebo. And I also suspect that psychology plays a major role. But I would like to be proven wrong here, and find enlightenment on the issue.
  12. FS: Two hangboards $10/each

    One large Entreprises board. Made of a type of mineral composite. Fairly heavy. Has a crack, but is securely fixed to a backing board. One small board, has the name "Pusher" printed on it. Either one is $10 or best offer. Contact me by email: jontne on Gmail Jon
  13. Laurel Fan

    That is sad to hear. I know she was an enthusiastic contributor to Mt. Project and an Index regular. But I didn't know about this Alpine Mentors. Seems like she spent a lot of time helping other people out. And far too young to go. But we all are very lucky to make it as long as we have.
  14. Need weekday climbing partners

    Sorry to hear about your partner bailing -- particularly in such a fantastic area. Good luck! And I'm hoping that Exit 47, aka, the "Fun Forest" has not been reclaimed by the forest...It has had a bit of a publicity problem, with it appearing only in Cramer's Sky Valley Rock (despite not even being in the Skykomish Valley!)
  15. Need weekday climbing partners

    Trang, I noticed a few people on Mt. Project looking for the same: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/pacific-northwest-partners/105795214 As for myself, I wouldn't mind finding someone to go check out the nice granite cragging at exit 47 near Snoq. Pass. It's been about 30 years since I last visited the place... Also, my knee is recovering from an injury, so am mainly looking to TR or follow routes. But there are some great cracks there, 5.7 to 5.12. Half-day trip is fine, any day Thurs - Sunday. gmail me 'jontne'.
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