boadman

Awesome! Almost makes me want to learn how to Kayak.

Fun to watch! I'm surprised he hasn't done any of the local 14s first, at Si, or Eqx. It seems like they'd be easier to project.

You'll be fine.

Only a couple of days to go if you want to get a cheaper than retail super bright rechargeable headlamp.

Maybe not? 1:17 nearly stopped my heart.

I'd want to be fairly confident that I could catch and rescue my partner if we were climbing as a roped team. Finding a 3rd experienced partner that could drill them in the basic skills required would be a good idea. I agree with Pete_H that someone with decent common sense should be able to head up there as long as they're willing to turn around if they feel uncomfortable. It sounds like he's going through a quarter life, "I'm going to have a baby" crisis. Just make sure his life insurance policy is large, covers mountaineering accidents, and let him get it out of his system.

I don't get it, how are they used? Just like a sling, but clipped together with a biner and worn over your shoulder? I don't see the advantage over a standard extendable trad draw worn on your harness. But, I only really climb rock.

Seems more like sharing the psych than spray.

I think I've seen you espousing the virtues of fossil rock on here before. When I look at it on mp.com it looks pretty limited. Are there more quality routes there than are shown?

Depending on how hard it's raining, the belayer may or may not be getting wet. Chronic is generally climbable with some level of suffering all year round.

Wow - David and I had fallen out of touch over the last couple of years although we generally ran into each other and climbed for a couple of days in Squamish every summer. He was a complicated individual, always seeming much younger than his 37 years, but full of life and excitement. You always had a sense that he was battling some demons, but I never thought they'd get the better of him. Several of my most memorable experiences involve trips with David. Here are a couple highlights: When I was in Thailand in 2001, I met David on Tonsai. He set up a tent next to me and my girlfriends. He was just learning to climb and was super excited, bold and fearless. He was 5 years older than me, but we all thought he was 18 or 19 until he told us. He loved the full moon parties, and would often party all night and then climb in the tropical sun all day the next day. A huge hand sized spider decided to hide out in my climbing bag one day. Instead of letting it go in the wild, I decided that David's tent would be a safer place. For two weeks, as he read by his headlamp, you could see the huge shadow of the spider hanging from the wall of the tent above his head. When he finally noticed it, listening to the shrieks and watching the spider shadow and human shadow scurry back and forth in the tent terrified of each other was entertaining, to say the least. He somehow managed to catch a dragon lizard and repaid the favor though. When I woke up and saw that thing in front of my face, my brain stem said, "COBRA!" and I nearly had a heart attack. That summer, when we were both back in the US, after a year in Asia he called me up and asked if I wanted to help him sail his boat up to Squamish from Seattle. It sounded like a good time. The story's a little too involved to get into here, but suffice to say, we barely survived. After recovering from our near death experience, we decided to climb Angel's Crest. We left the boat at noon. He didn't remember his headlamp. We got back to the boat at 4 am. RIP Dave, we had some great times.

Bump, only a couple hundred bucks to go.

Awesome!

Oh, and he's almost there, so back it quick if you want to get a deal on the headlamp. :-)

He's doing really well, he's only 2,400 down, and he's got over a month to go. I don't think he'll have any trouble reaching his goal. I hope the company makes it!

It might be about 2 miles to get to the farthest boulders (Magic) if you can't drive. I'd rather walk than pedal a pad up that hill.

Any yet the grain size in Squamish granite is coarser than the size of the sand grains in IC sandstone Fine grained granite doesn't seem to have the same "sand"paper effect that the IC sandstone does though. You wear holes in your skin one layer at a time if you climb there multiple days.

She mainly climbs in the desert though. She wouldn't tape up for Index or Squamish. The granite is fine enough grained that tape is unnecessary.

CO2 equivalent of 1,515 kWh = roughly 1301 lbs. CO2 production of commercial flight = roughly 1 lb/mile/passenger Seattle - Petersburg = 1796 lbs So, you should more than offset your flight in a year or so. Not bad. That doesn't count the helicopter ride though. Am I really a hater? I would describe myself as mildly critical and slightly holier-than-thou.

I'd personally contact the rope manufacturer. Used motor oil often has metal particulates that might also do some damage.

What about Zach Hoyt's ascents? Didn't he hike in from the beach or something like that? As someone with a job & family, I can understand why you wouldn't have the time to catch the ferry up to Petersburg, hitch a ride on a fishing boat, and hike in from the beach, but I still think it would be better style. Actually, I think a pedal powered approach to one of our local ranges would be prouder in many ways. Glorifying the "smash and grab" trip is also glorifying the activities that are drastically changing the character of many of our mountains. The climb looked like a fun adventure though, for sure!

Cool video & climb. Seems like a pretty substantial carbon to climbing ratio.

Private Idaho has quite a few 5.9 & under single pitch (with a 70m rope) routes. They would actually be reasonably easy to set top-ropes on too, if the group doesn't have a ton of competent belayers. The grades are stiff, like usual though. There are two 5.8s on the right side that are particularly fun and mellow.

A friend is trying to start up a new company to manufacture and sell his headlamp design. It's pretty neat: Bosavi Headlamps Kickstarter

I'll do the 50 classics in 17 years. This is a 33rd birthday challenge, so I'm going for 33 pitches. I agree that this list is so far lower wall centered, but you have to admit that everything on the list so far is pretty stellar.