boadman

Thanks for the report!

Anybody been up to WW1 to check it out recently? Is it a total seeping mess, or are there some "dry" routes? I was thinking about sneaking up there before the deluge resumes.

I'll probably be at the burial this weekend, she was an old family friend. I never really new her, but she took my parents in when they were kids. Her books are among my kids' favorites, just like they were mine. I just read them Andrew Henry's meadow last night before bed.

It is absolutely shocking how crappy the magazine is. There is so little content, and it doesn't seem like there's any editing done at all.

Bolts on cliffs are actually a stylistic issue also. They have less impact environmentally than approach trails or nests of tat on trees. I've never heard you explain how people are supposed to TR wildly over-hanging routes without decking or breaking their backs on trees. On-sight climbing is obviously the gold standard and what the majority of climbers enjoy most. However, it is very difficult to push your on-sight level without pushing yourself on routes that require rehearsal. This tactic is also used extensively on naturally protected routes and has been since before the advent of sport climbing (gritstone, dresden, etc.).

http://www.drjuliansaunders.com/resources/feature_articles/shoulder_impingement/ Probably doesn't really help you at this point, but I found it to be an entertaining read. I took a fall in the gym this winter and landed funny, fractured my humerus, which ended up causing some pretty painful impingement. PT's fixing mine though.

I'd like to: 1. Get on at least one new pitch every-time I go to index. 2. Send some long-standing local projects @ Si & Index, etc. 3. Get out to Colchuck Balance rock & get on something, it all looks awesome. 4. Get my second orchard established at my folks. 5. Get my son riding a pedal bike.

That's number two recall for these cams. I went out and got myself a .5 equivalent, I'll have to inspect it.

Those were cool.

I second the Ergo. I didn't like the snugly either, too complicated and uncomfortable. The wraps all annoyed me, but my wife liked them.

Or apple pie? It would be really hard for me to decide between being able to onsite 5.13 reliably and never eating apple pie again. Really hard.

I'd like to be 180, 205 now. Realistically, I'll probably only get down to 190.

If the route has gone free, leave your hammer at home.

If you don't like TRing, then you don't like climbing.

One small point - The new fixed draws are much more subtle, visually, than the rainbow of nylon that was replaced. I doubt that the average hiker will notice them from the trail.

Looks pretty awesome!

That's a pretty awesome app, thanks.

Do you have an app that you use to search multiple craigslist cities or something?

Yeah, but helmets like my old petzl one offer zero side or rear impact protection (because they rely on the space between the strap and the helmet) to cushion a blow. There are bike helmets with rigid outer shells that seem pretty similar, or even sturdier than climbing helmets like the Petzl Meteor. For instance, the Nutcases, or the Berg helmets. They also seem like they'd be much better for side and rear impacts. I'm honestly not worried about retiring a bike helmet if I get hit in the head by a rock and getting a new one. I'm more worried about taking a wierd fall and bonking my head on a rock, actually. I bet there are more climbing fatalities associated with head injuries from falls than with rock fall. Oh yeah, and I searched for helmet and didn't find much.

I had a security guy claim my belay biner could be used as brass knuckles. I think he just wanted me to let him take it. It was a nice petzl one.

I wish insurance covered it, seems like it would be cheaper than the annual glasses money.

Why do climbers buy climbing specific helmets? Is it just a habit? Is there anything special about them? It seems like a lot of bike helmets are cheaper, and would work just as well, or better even than the old rigid plastic ones.

Wow.

It was actually nearly bone dry out there yesterday, although it was pissing down rain most of the day so who knows how it is now. Even propaganda was mostly climbable, just a few wet holds at the top of the streak. Cold though, very chilly on the finger tips.

I think that riding a bicycle to Patagonia would be super proud, and pretty fun. Just take shoes and a harness and a little camping gear with you and stop at every climbing area you can find on your way south. Learn to dumpster dive. Maybe catch a ride to Cuba on a sail boat. Get work here and there as you run out of money. Learn Spanish & see the world at an intimate pace.