counterfeitfake

I know that this happens. It doesn't make it correct. We have a system, and the rule of the system is supposedly that a route gets it's grade from the hardest move on it. I am not particularly invested in this system, except that it is what we are all ostensibly using. We should be consistent. If the YDS isn't good enough, and we feel the need to compress more information into a grading system, we will end up with a horrible clusterfuck like British grades. I would much rather read: "Trezlar: 5.9, sustained. This striking dihedral is vertical or overhanging for it's entire 100 foot length, and has few moves easier than the grade it is given." than "Trezlar: Hard Very Difficult 5a." And it's beside-the-point quibbling, but isn't BOC given 5.10a by almost everybody?

I normally don't play "pile on the new guy" but this statement bothers me, and I've been hearing a lot of this crap lately. The rating of a climb has nothing to do with it's protection. It only has to do with the difficulty of a climb. The "R", "X", "PG13", or :: speak to the available protection. If it feels 5.9 on toprope, it's 5.9. You don't need a harder grade in a book to lead it, you need bigger balls. Let's get a bit real here instead of playing rating aesthetics semantic games. Any sustained enduro route is going to be easier on toprope. The act of placing gear takes time and energy, which is more than an inconvenience when racing the pump. And that is why a route cannot be boiled down into a number. That is why guidebooks have words in them besides the route name and grade. That is why topos say things like "sustained" or "pumpy" or "bold". A route is not supposed to get a higher grade because every move is the same difficulty. A route does not change it's grade depending on how you are climbing it.

IT WOULDN'T BE ANYTHING IN THE VALLEY BECAUSE GRANITE DOESN'T CRACK THAT WAY.

If I remember correctly: Get your left hand solid. Move your feet left. Push and reach faaar right. Seems hard for 5.10a, but the rest of the route seems easy.

I would be scared of Asgaard Pass.

Ken, if you had any pictures of that I would be EXTREMELY grateful.

Crag.

This weekend is also going to be a pretty bad one for being on snow, see the avalanche advisory that was recently posted.

Stop taking Dru's bait.

ahhhhhhhh

And yours is coming back up...... Yup. In this photo you can SEE how much more substantial my spray is than yours.

Yup, it's pretty straightforward. The raps are basically right in the middle of the wall that forms the notch between Liberty Bell and Concord. More good beta. I skiied down the gulley two days ago. It was icy snow. I bet even after a warm couple of weeks it will be mostly snow. Depending on the temperature when you go it could be slush or it could be hard ice, no way to say right now. So you might want crampons and/or ice axe- I was glad to have my axe with me. It does face west and gets afternoon sun. There's a lot of snow up there. The climb is likely to be at least damp in places.

Wow. Did the bolts look okay? What route was it?

Are you guys going to have sex, or just talk about it online forever?

There should be a signal-to-noise statistic in the database. Kevbone's is fucking minimal.

gross!

I think it makes sense for the official to give the boilerplate "you must rope up on a glacier" line. If you have the experience to go against this advice, you understand the tradeoffs you're making. Obviously, once you've fallen into a crevasse, it would have been nice to be roped up. I meant the question genuinely- how do experienced ski mountaineers decide when to rope up? Skiing roped up is the best insurance against crevasse falls. But skiing down while roped up almost defeats the purpose of skiing. How much protection against punching through a snow bridge do skis provide? With the recent fall on Rainier, and the fact that I'm starting to think about skiing on glaciers, I'm interested in input about this.

Oh cry me a goddamn river. How is your high horse? Sorry dude. I didn't mean to say you weren't successful.

I'm not trying to be a dick, I'm just saying it doesn't really matter. Mark is trying to be a dick.

http://If everyone calls it one thing, and you call it another, who's correct? Kind of like bickering about where Dreamer goes.

Who skis roped up on glaciers? On the way up, on the way down?

Here is some info. In late June it will probably be half snow. Chances are you don't need crampons, the snowfield is not very steep, but it kind of depends on the snow conditions and your expertise. Poles are a good idea if you like poles.

You Peshastin fans sure have an inferiority complex.

I remembered and went looking for the thread referred to earlier. You can type your search into google and add "site:cascadeclimbers.com/forum" on the end to make sure it looks here only. It should be no surprise that it was Joseph H who provided the instructions.

Nice! And hey, it's really good to see you using the proper nalgene bottle suspension method.