Kraken

anyone?

Two Italians came off the big D today. They did the Muldrow in 14 days and were flown out of Kahiltna. They said the headwall on the fixed lines out of 14k is blue ice (forget skiing out of there). They reported very cold temperatures and noted that last year's trail from 11k up to 17k is still visible, actually raised above the rest of the snow. BAD! Rangers are building base camp this week and should be installing the fixed lines. Ruth Glacier: about 6 feet of snow around the Sheldon Amphitheatre. Another skier came out today from there and said it had snowed roughly 18 inches in the past week, so there could be about 7 feet of snow. No news on route conditions in the Ruth yet. Some climbers did land on the Buckskin, little Switzerland, the Tokositna, etc. I have a buddy who's been laying tracks around the Range lately and is flying in again on Wednesday.

beautiful guys! Glad to hear you got up something. I have the same feeling lately, doing lots of climbing without much summiting Cheers!

NWOT Ibex Merino Wool Ibex Hoody - Men's Medium Retails at $150, yours for $100 Details and testimonials: HERE!!!!!! La Sportiva Nuptse Double boots Size 45, newish...probably 30-40 days use Retail at $525, yours for the one time low price of $350 WARM!!!!! Reason for selling...upgrading to Spantiks Raichle 90 Degree Boots - Size 46, (US Men's 12) (similar to the La Sportiva Nepal GTX) Used but not abused $100 bones INFO!!! NWOT Mountain Hardwear Augille Goretex Shell Pants - Men's Medium Full zip 3-layer shells Retails at $230, yours for $150 Info from MHW: HERE!!!!!!! Black Diamond Bionic Crampons They're used, but I have brand new unused spare frontpoints for 'em. I love them, they've been up Wowie Zowie, Greensteps and Bridalveil in Valdez, and seen lots of mixed action in the Chugach, but I am switching to the Grivel G-14s. These come with wide toe bails and extender bars as well as the normal bars and bails. Retail for $185 but will sell them for $75 OBO as they have a bit of use but many many years of life left. One old figure eight...$1 More stuff coming soon. I'll be heading down to WA in the first week of June and will be in the Wrangells for two weeks in mid-late May, but will be around for the next few weeks. I can ship them and you pay or we could meet in Seattle when I get down there. Its up to you. I'm broke, need money...help! PM with questions. Kraken, formally known as Clintoris

the first time i went to attempt the Kautz, I met a guy off CC.com and he wanted to use a 20m rope. Apparently he didn't think tehre was a chance we'd have to do any crevasse extraction. Subsequently I insisted that we bring my heavier 10mmx60m rope, as it would at least be useful. That's one story from that hellish climb, I could go on.

I came up to Anchorage to go to school for a semester. I've never left. I've lived up here for four years and have few complaints about it, except that god bands rarely come up here, ugmos can be bitchy beauty queens, and beer is expensive. We have all of the amenities of a big city with a small town feel. Sure it gets dark in the winter, but if you are able to get out and enjoy your day while its there, it ain't so bad. How could it be bad when you are able to go climb a few pitches of ice inbetween classes on a week day?

has anyone used one of these before? Seems like a cool tent company. What are your thoughts on the inflated system? Nemo Tents

lookin' good up there

why not just call it what it is...the West Face Couloir???????

met him when he came up here. He was on his way out to foraker. He is a very calculated and ethical climber. Congrats to him.

that was a very cool video. Doesn't matter how many times I see that mountain, it always amazes me.

COLIN! YES! You did get the first winter ascent. Nicely done man! That has been attempted by so many people in the winter, way to keep racking up these coveted summits!

Yikes. Graduation. That is about as close as Pluto for me. Someday, someday.

Does anyone have any more information as to a fee increase for the 2007 climbing season? I haven't heard anything on this end so I can only assume that they haven't changed yet.

Don't let my word make or break your Alaska Range trip, but I just heard today that a party was unable to land in the Ruth (neither at the Mountain House or at the Gorge landing strip site. Also, BC on the Kahiltna is dry too. Apparently the only good place right now is the Tokositna. I do know that people have landed at KIA, since Masatoshi Kuriaki (Japanese Caribou) is currently up there. I just have heard nothing but reports of extremely dry, cold conditions up there. From the info I heard today, there is a three foot base of snow right now...not exactly ideal. The extended weather forecast calls for cold and clear, lots of high pressure. Just thought you all might want to know. We'll get snow up there, just not sure when. I am unsure as to the condition of certain routes at the moment.

Last season on Rainier was one of the safest on record with no fatalities only two very very minor injuries. Hopefully this upcoming season will follow with the same results.

The other day i was out at one of our local ice crags. The ice had receeded a little bit and the ice was about 5 feet lower than the two bolt chain anchor that one would normally clip to and TR off of. I was somewhat surprised to see that a team of two was top roping off of a V-thread they had made, just below the bolt anchor. It was in good ice, but I still thought it was a bad choice. I've rapped countless pitches off of a V-thread, and I trust their integrity to rappelling, but these guys didn't even have a backup screw in above the V-thread. Seemed like trouble waiting to happen to me. Thoughts?

Try going to school at UAA in Alaska. Ridiculous. Gawdy sloots and ugly queens. Anyways, good deal Colin, good to hear you're getting on it so much! Where are you going here in Alaska for spring break?

another brilliant snowmachiner not wearing a beacon. Glad to hear he's alive though.

I took a 48 footer last season doing just that. I was exiting and had a screw 15 feet below me and my tool ripped out over the bulge. I stopped less than 5 feet from the ground. Fell on a stubby with about 1-2 CM punched through a curtain, luckily the screamer fully extended. Screws hold if the ice is good, just don't fall. 2/3 falls will result in you hitting the ground.

I bought these Nuptses and have used them for a total of 6 days (one five day alpine trip and one day at ice crag). I like them, they are great boots, but I made the mistake of going about a half size too big. These things are brand spankin' new condition, they don't even smell. I need to get $450 out of them, that's still $75 less than retail. PM me with serious offers.

so what does this mean for access to royal columns later in the season? Is it closed for a long period of time or just for a while?

don't be modest dude, post some of yourself too!

The White Russian route on the BT from the Root canal travels 2000' up on the far right side of the snow face under the col between MT and BT. IT then takes a right trending snow gully on the slabby rock with a few thin moderate chimneys and ice up to AI 4. That's really all I know about it but my buddy Jay has climbed it and said it was very fun, like a mini ham and eggs.

i'm going climbing this weekend in valdez with a guy who put up a new route on the Bear Tooth. I'll ask him, but I think his route was on the back side. On a side note, the Bear Tooth is the greatest restaurant/theatre in the history of the world. Seriously, they must sprinkle crack on their food.