Kraken

pictures will be posted soon.

Our line takes the farthest most right trending ice line that breaks off from the fork in the second picture. The 'deep slot' line is the route that John Kelley and Josh Varney completed last year. It's called the History of Things to come and was rated V, WI5, M7, A1. Snow conditions were perfect up high. It was mostly styrofoam and rarely did we sink deeper than our ankles.

The obvious line on the North Face is the N. Couloir. It is mostly steep snow with a pitch or two of ice. I believe it was first climbed by Richard Baranow. John has climbed it, but I have not. He would have better information on it.

Trip: Yukla Peak (6000' sub peak) - Chugach Mountains - Gank'd and Slay'd - 2800', V, WI6, M6, A2 Date: 2/10/2007 Trip Report: John Kelley and I made the hike out to the Icicle Valley from the Eagle River Nature Center again last week in an effort to attempt another new route on Mount Yukla. The hike out there took us just under eight hours and involved a little bit of fourth-class terrain once we accessed the Icicle Drainage. We arrived at the boulder bivy site at about 12:30 at night and set up camp. The entire next day we relaxed and rested in preparation for our coming climb. At 3:30 in the morning on Thursday, we were up and heading out to the base of our objective. After 700 feet of third-classing steep snow and grade-three ice, we reached the fork where the three routes split. Our original intent had been to go for the left trending ramp, but we decided upon reaching the fork to go for the ice line on the right, which had already seen several attempts by other parties. Instead of starting on the ice at the base of the climb (which looked grade 3-ish from far away but looked very thin and unprotectable from up close), we decided to gain the route from a ramp just to the climber’s left of it. I led up the ramp, which was perfect styrofoam ice. The ramp ended in a 15-20 foot tall rock headwall. I attempted to get over it and was able to get most of the way up it (mostly 5.9ish laybacks), but was thwarted up high by down sloping rock and poor feet. After trying in vain for roughly an hour, I had John lower me and give it a go. He quickly got to my highpoint and decided it would have to be aided. He placed a few bird beaks (one of which blew out on him) and pitons and after about an hour was able to get through the crux moves. He followed the narrow chimney up to the rope’s end and set up a belay. He hauled the bags while I jugged up and cleaned. Once I got up there, he gave me the rest of the rack and after sorting it, I was on my way, already on virgin ground. It was getting dark by this point, so we were definitely looking for a bivy spot. I led up a narrow snow chimney to a thin WI4 step. “Not so bad,” I thought. Upon getting to the top of the step, I saw I was in for quite a pitch. It had snowed just enough to make things annoying, and all the cracks and holds were covered. I scratched and picked my way up to the base of another snow filled rock chimney. I went right initially, and got about 10 feet up and couldn’t find any protection. The holds became nonexistent and I was facing a 20+ foot whipper into a shoulder wide chimney that would not end well. My last piece was a snarg hammered into some frozen veggies. I doubted it would hold. I considered retreat, but decided that I needed to man up and go for it. Once I had my man pants on again, I down climbed 10 feet and went left. After a few desperate and dicey moves, I was up and over the technical crux of that pitch, which went at M6. I scratched my way up to a belay and spotted a good bivy site 20 feet below and to the right. 20 minutes later we were shoveling out a small, protected ledge for our first night on the wall. After a cramped night on the small ledge, we brewed some water and were on our way again. John took the first pitch of the day over a sketchy dihedral to a right trending corner system, then up a slough gully to a rock outcrop where he set up a belay. I followed and on the way up, my tool popped off my harness while I jugged up. (Note: do not use those stupid Ice Clippers, they fucking suck) Luckily John had a third tool, so we were able to continue. I took the next lead over a grade-three ice step and was sloughed on the entire time. After getting through that, I climbed steep snow to the base of a grade three ice pitch. I led up the ice without any difficulties and set up a belay for John. We were sure we were getting close to the top. At this point in time, we were racing the light. “This is probably it,” he said, in reference to the next pitch that he was going to lead. With that, he took the rack and started up the ice, which appeared to be grade-five from the bottom. With almost no pro and long run outs, he got near the top and was faced with thin overhanging ice with unconsolidated snow above that. He placed two equalized screws and pumped himself up for the committing moves. “I guess I’ll just go for it, “ he said, and with a couple impressive moves he dominated his way up the crux ice pitch, which went at WI6 due to its thin condition and unprotected run out, all mixed together with the 15 foot overhanging section under a powder snow mushroom. John got to the top and let out a triumphant scream. “We must be near the top,” I thought. Once I got up there, I saw that we still had a few pitches to go. We traversed right over a snow slope that would be atrociously dangerous in different conditions and began digging a snow cave for our second bivy on the face. Although our bags were soaking wet and our food was low, we remained decently comfortable and kept ourselves entertained by spitting out songs and lyrics from NWA and Easy E. We awoke in the morning and got going. The weather had finally turned in our favor and there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. Anxiously, we packed up, and John took the WI3 pitch, which we knew would put us close to the top. It was a rope stretcher, literally, and I had to lean forward just so John would have enough rope to reach a belay. The rope got caught on a rock and I had an interesting pendulum swing and drop when it popped off of the rock as I jugged up the rope and freed the packs that had been caught on an outcrop. This pitch put us on top. We were very excited and packed everything up, then headed towards the 6000-foot sub peak of Yukla. We descended down the Northeast Ridge back down the Icicle Glacier to our camp at the boulder bivy. Tired, but determined, we left our camp at 5:30 and were back at the car by 10:30. This was John’s third new route on Yukla within the past year (AAJ 2006) and my second attempt on the peak. Our route Gank’d and Slay’d, went at 2,800’, V, M6, WI6 A2. Gear Notes: Full set of cams, Nuts, 4 Lost Arrows, 4 Bugs, 4 Angles, 1-2 Snargs, Smokes, Don't use those stupid clippers on alpine routes unless you want to lose your tools

Royal Columns is sweet. Probably got about 10 days out there this summer. Watch out for snattlerakes though. Can't tell you how many I almost stepped on out there. Cool video. What Beastie Boys song is that?

guess that means less chance of a crevasse fall for the climbers of 2100

or the wife

Nice job guys. Beautiful pictures. Can't ask for a better weekend than that. BTW, are those ice lines inbetween Degenhardt and Terror or just snow sloughs?

Petzl Charlet makes one like that already. It's called the SnowScopic. http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=433

Two spankin' new BD Cobra tools. both hammers. Used for 3 pitches of ice, decided I like my Vipers way better and don't need a third pair to collect dust in the closet. Lockdown leashes included, picks are sharp and still shiny. Make me a serious offer

do you think i would look good in that hotline tanktop?

might want to also check out Montbell's ultralight top. It is SUPERLIGHT and packs downsmaller than a tennisball.

I'll second that. We came in to attempt Glacier two summers ago from the N. Sauk Trail and were turned around at the Whitechuck Glacier by nasty weather. The trail is great, and the dying Whitechuck Glacier still offers easy travel to the flanks of the peak. Great approach, not too strenuous.

Wow. Cheers to one hell of a man. I was just combing over several of my Washburn books a few days ago and was thinking about what an astonishing and unique life he lived. There will never be another guy like him. Tonight I'm raising my glass to the pioneer of Alaskan climbing.

if worse comes to worse, go to a shop that has a rubbing bar and rub out the toe on the left boot a bit. It should expedite the process for you. good luck man!

NO. Dude...stop while you're still sort of ahead

it's -20*F in Anchorage right now.

is this really news????

Integral Designs Denali Pants are my favorites. They are warmer than the Chugach and less 'stiff' The Chugach pants do have the reinforced knees and butt though, that's one plus. http://alaskamountaineering.com/Product.cfm?id=435

i just ordered it straight from the company. Two tie in points No zipper, just a slip in, Window 18 Oz SHould be nice. I'd thought about the bibler bipod or tripod but couldn't find a good argument to carry an additional 1-2 pounds for a pole system.

trick question?

keeping the cobras and the picks. STill have the helmet and MHW coat.

Has anyone used the MHW Rock Sack Bivy? I found a wicked deal on one that's too good to pass up.

Not so much a climbing book as a look at a person who lived a life involving mountains and climbing. Good Morning Midnight by Chip Brown, it's about Guy Waterman, the father of John Waterman. Check it out. If you haven't heard of John Waterman, google him...he was an interesting fellow. Guy Waterman though, walked up to a mountain one night with a death wish. He laid down behind a rock and gave in to the elements. Really interesting book. Check it out.

if nothing else, this thread is ripe with awesome signature quotes