Kraken

ok, but what kind of real-to-life loads are we talking about here? If we are talking a crevasse rescue situation, you are talking A: body weight, if part of self rescue or B: a load of maybe 1000 pounds in a hauling system (3:1, 5:1) AND, I'm thinking of two person glacial travel. I've practiced it enough to find the klemheist significantly easier to tie when looking under your legs, as your thighs burn with the urge to rip you out of your stance. I've never had it slip. How is it that the autoblock came out on top as the friction hitch with the greatest holding power? Can I see the study you mentioned? Also, I'm not trying to fight or flame, I'm just curious! EDIT: this is also considering that you don't travel with a rescue hitch already attached to the rope. If that is the case, then a klemheist is not optimal hitch, as it is omnidirectional, where the prussik is multidirectional. Then you can belay your partners in/out as needed.

klemheist, dudez!!!111 easier and quicker to tie whether dangling in a hole or holding the weight of a fallen climber. Prussiks are hard as hell to tie quickly when trying to tie it between and behind your legs. A klemhiest is simple to wrap and clip off.

When you fly, carry on as much of your heavy stuff as you can. I've carried an 80 pound pack on that still fit in the overhead bin, along with two 50 pound checked bags, and I didn't pay any overage fees.

I'm looking for an expedition duffel bag; one that I can haul up Denali and also use for storing the sharps when traveling. The two options i'm considering are the Patagucci Stellar Black Hole Bag and the North Face Base Camp Duffel. I would tend to lean towards the Stellar Bag as it is about two pounds lighter than the North Face, but then again, it is thinner and therefore I figure less durable over time. Since this will be used to hold everything from fuel and food to rock and ice gear, I figure it is bound to take a fair amount of abuse. Not to mention the airlines' abuse when I fly. Thoughts?

This one could be dangerous, but I've never had any problems with it...yet. Instead of carrying a collapsible nalgene pee bottle, just use the bag from that night's freeze dried meal. The zip-locks on those bags are bomber, and aside from rolling over on it, it will not crack open. Put it by your head and it's out of the way and safe. Bad story: We were on the first night of an 13-day trip last winter in the Chugach, where it was -30 every night. My 96 ounce nalgene cantene cracked a little bit and I woke up in the middle of the night to a brand new urine soaked WM Big Horn down bag. The next week and a half was spent sleeping in a piss-ridden bag, but the problem never happened again, thanks to the afformentioned tip. Lighter than carrying a standard nalgene piss-bottle, plus it holds more. Cut a foot-hole in the vestibule. Way better than having to cook and lay down. Easier to put boots on in the morning.

I went online and bought a 4gb flash drive mp3 player. it has FM radio and goes 19 hours off one AAA battery. Better and lighter than carrying a charger.

need to get rid of these now. I'm without a good pair of boots at the moment. any takers? i'll probably put them up on ebay in a day or two if i don't get any bites here.

bump

lowered the price to $300 shipped

New pair of La Sportiva Baturas size 44 $300 They don't fit my feet and i can't take 'em back need to get rid of them ASAP so I can get a new pair

I'm doing the Denali thing in late May and was wondering if anyone has used any solar charging devices. I have an iPod and would like to bring it along and was wondering what people have found to be successful. I'm not looking to spend an asston of money or haul some gigantic thing up there, but would like something that can be put on the outside of a tent/backpack and suck up the sun. ebay has some cheap ones in the $20 range

I had a bulge rip out on me taking me for a 48 foot ride. I had a 10cm screw with a screamer on it. The screamer totally opened up and saved me from hitting the deck. My belayer was pulled forward a little bit so that might have created a little dynamic assistance to it. That was the only fall I've ever taken. My mindset though is that screamers CERTAINLY don't hurt the matter. I climb with a double rope system and almost extensively screamers. Also, I can verify that, while not optimal all situations, spectres have their niche. Moss and veggies suck those things up. They can be really solid if placed correctly.

how's the construction on the lodge coming along?

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/arrig/index.htm

Hatcher Pass!

East Buttress of Johnson (turned around some incredibly strong teams), East Face of Denali, West Face of Kitchatna Spire, South face of Dickey, East face of 11300, The route on Broken tooth that turned Westman around is gnarly looking I think a triple threat would be incredible too: North Buttress of Hunter to Cassin on Denali to Infinite Spur on Foraker...would take an incredible amount of patience, speed, skill and luck with weather, light and fast but could theoretically be done. Masatoshi only needs Hunter to complete the big three solo in the winter...he'll do it soon

HERE IS A REVIEW I WROTE UP AFTER USING THEM SEVERAL WEEKS AGO: I recently had the chance to use Vasque's new technical high altitude double boots, the Radiators. As is quite common with new styles and features, I wasn't entirely convinced when I first saw the BOA System on the boots. I was worried that it would be difficult to make the feet tight, but ankles loose for approaching. Another concern was the lack of a full shank in the sole. In the store, the boot was definitely a little softer than its counterparts like the La Sportiva Nutpse or Spantik. The price tag though, a modest $425, had me intrigued. Four days off on an alpine endeavor gave me a perfect chance to go use these boots in a multitude of environments ranging from a flat trail to aggressive side-hilling on talus and scree, to full on technical alpine ice and rock climbing with crampons. I was instantly convinced that these boots could 'walk the talk' as we did the six mile approach on the flat trail. Not only did they provide support, they also walked very well. My initial concern of not being able to lock the foot down without tightening it so much that I would get shin bang was instantly erased. Even with a full 50lb load on my back, these boots provided the support I needed and my feet never once felt uncomfortable. When we got on the technical terrain, they climbed very well. The BOA System was easy to use and quick adjustments of the knob were great. It was not even necessary to take off big mitts when doing so, which was a big plus. Normally, I use the La Sportiva Nuptses when doing cold or multi-day alpine trips. One thing I instantly noticed was that these were much lighter, similar in warmth and slightly less bulky, another plus. If there is one complaint I have about the Vasque Radiators, it is their softer sole. When put side by side with the Spantik or Nuptse, it is easy to see that the Radiator doesn't even come close to matching the sole thickness of either of these boots. Not only does that reduce the overall warmth of the boot, but it allows for a significant amount of additional flex. This, combined with what I found to be a softer Vibram rubber sole, made for very difficult side hilling. When kicking into very firm snow or neve, I was constantly struggling where my partner, with plastics, had no trouble getting solid footing. I could tell a distinct difference between the stiffness and hardness of my Nuptses and the Radiators. On terrain I had been many times before with my Nuptses, I noticed I had more difficulties kicking steps on steep and risky terrain where I hadn't before. Perhaps the intended market for the Radiators are meant more for routes where low valley, verglassed rock approaches are not the norm. Slap a pair of crampons on them though and they are money. Other than that, the Radiators were warm, light, comfortable and simple yet innovative. As with all boots, I removed the normal insole and added my Sole Ultra insole. The price is hard to beat, cheaper even than La Sportiva's single leather alpine boot, the Nepal GTX. For this and the reasons previously mentioned, I would recommend this boot to friends and my customers looking to do moderate ice climbs or long Alaskan alpine routes. Overall, I would give them an 8 out of 10 PROS: Affordable, easy to adjust with BOA System, warm, comfortable, and walk and climb well CONS: Soft sole and shank don't always grip or shovel where other similar boot soles will

to each his own i guess. I know a number of hard climbers though who climb WI6 with sabretooths so its not like one won't work for the other. In candlestick ice vertical points can penetrate better. In pure flows, I don't think it really matters that much, but that's just me.

It would be nice if the gaiters were easily replaceable. That would mean they would have to be removable. Not for use but for easy replacement. In trying them on though, they thought of that crampon problem and the last on the inner part of the boot is pretty damn thick, almost a kevlar type material. It will be interesting to see how they work. I would probably still opt to wear a gaiter over them just for that very reason of crampons though.

Hey all, looking for that little piece that screws into the shaft of the Viper. I guess you could call it the upper part of the Viper Android leash. If anyone has an extra one or knows where I can get one without shelling out all that skrilla for another whole leash system, let me know. Thanks

I love the fact that there are some removable breast implants in there. That's great.

OK, going with down for a zero degree bag. Has anyone used the Phantom 0* by Mountain Hardwear? The weight is right and I have a chance to get a good deal on one. Normally I'd go FF or WM down bags, but I have a good opportunity for this bag. Any personal feedback would be appreciated. Thanks

I have doubles of #8. Will trade for any of the following: #0,1,2,3,4,5,10,12,13

A little too big for my feet. My loss is your gain. I need a half size smaller. In VERY GOOD condition, used for one 10 day trip to the Wrangell-St. Elias this spring and that's it. $390 get's em. Size 45 (US Mens 11.5) PM with questions.

I appreciate the suggestions so far, but I am looking for a zero degree bag (+/- 5 degrees) that is synthetic. I've already got the half bag set up figured out, but need something that will perform well in cold, potentially wet climates like the ruth, cascades, and chugach in the cold season. I had the NF Snowshoe before and liked it, in fact it was one of the lighter weight bags I've found that qualified. I might even get it again.