Kraken

i'll take 'em! PM me if you still have them and i'll send payment asap via paypal

awesome photos. we were there at the same time in site 31 under toe jam. But under NO NO NO circumstances are you allowed to have headlamps in the Chasm!!!! Where's the fun in that?!?!? Love JTree!

Up first is a pair of La Sportiva Katanas. These are great shoes in almost new shape (the toes are Perfect) They don't have a size tag on them but they have to be a 42. I'm a LS 42.5 and they are too small. $40 shipped toes in perfect, almost unused shape Up next is a pair of 5.10 Asyms. These are a size 11/44.5. Get them outta here! The toes are in great shape. $35 shipped Brand New Jetboil SOL: Retails $120, selling for $90 shipped. PM or Email to ClintHelander at Gmail.com

If you have a copy that isn't being used, I'll buy it. Clinthelander@gmail.com

Allow me to further toot my own horn... Here is the digital edition of this story, which was featured in the October 2011 issue of Climbing Magazine. Winning and Losing in the Revelations by Clint Helander Thanks. Clint

thank you good sirs! It's rainy in Anchorage, so I'm hoping as I drive south (well, north THEN south) today the weather just gets better. Bugaboos or bust!

I'm driving down from Alaska to Seattle and was hoping to hit up the Bugs for the first time. I should be there by Sunday or Monday. How were general conditions this year with the heavy snowpack? Obviously the routes will be free of seasonal ice/snow, but how were the glaciers/schrunds? Weather permitting, we are hoping to spend about five days in early september enjoying the 'Boos.

these guys tore it up! Way to go Luc!!! I bet a beer at the Fairview has never tasted so good!

Selling a brand new Rab Cirrus Hooded Wind Top. This is the same type of jacket as a Patagonia Houdini. Retails for $110. Make me an offer. BRAND NEW SIZE MENS MEDIUM Here's some more information. http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4346034 Designed for fast and light use the Rab Cirrus Wind-Top is a fully featured jacket that can be used over layers to create a warm and windproof clothing system yet weighs in at just 140g / 5 oz. * The Cirrus Wind Top is ideal for adventure racers, mountain marathons, climbing, mountain bikers * Full length YKK zip with internal storm flap * 2 large zipped A-line hand warmer pockets * Under helmet hood * Elasticized cuffs and a single exit hem draw cord * Supplied with stuff sac * Medium cut

$110 shipped

They are size large. Also shipping $10

I'm selling a pair of Silvretta 404 Randonee bindings. These are perfect for ski mountaineering (think Denali or ice climbing/mountaineering approaches). They are in very good condition. Clint Call: 907 - Two Two Seven - 3291 Or email ClintHelander@gmail.com

I hear they're going to rap bolt the west buttress!

a fine line. kevin was psyched about that. clint

Selling my Wren Silent Partner Solo Belay Device $150 obo. In a unique way the SILENT PARTNER gives you a more efficient, more natural feeling solo belay that can be used on both free and aid routes and without a chest harness. This freedom allows you to go climbing on your own schedule and not be limited to bouldering, biking or taking a hike for the rest of the day. It is also a great training tool for those wanting to do repeated "laps" on a favorite pitch or top rope problem. The SILENT PARTNER capitalizes on the frictional properties of the clove hitch knot supercharged with an internal centrifugal locking mechanism - much like an auto seat belt - to arrest a rapidly moving rope and "catch" a fall. Move slowly - rope feeds free, take a dive and your SILENT PARTNER will lock on the rope. Be sure to follow the manufacturers instructions and tips... and don't forget to tie your back up knots! Used with 9.8-11mm dynamic rope and two symetrical shaped locking carabiners

Looking for a partner for some Alaskan steeps? Me too! I'm pretty psyched on getting to the Kahiltna and am free after May 8th through June. My options are open but I'd be excited on the Moonflower (conditions dependent) or the Cassin, etc! Hit me up!

I think this is really unfortunate. These guys are being portrayed as "experienced/veteran" climbers, yet they failed to follow even the most basic of Alaskan mountain climbing protocals. No GPS? No wands? No stove? Reality check: You're on a major Alaskan mountain in the winter. It's this kind of publicity that does not bode well for climbers.

Trip: First Ascent of Mt. Mausolus - "The Mausoleum" - West Face Direct Date: 3/16/2011 Trip Report: After years of obsessing, I was finally able to make the first ascent of 9,170' Mt. Mausolus in the southwestern Alaska range with Scotty Vincik. Conditions on the mountain were ideal in mid-March. We were extremely lucky! The route contained the finest alpine climbing I have ever done, with pitch after pitch after pitch of perfect ice. Enjoy. -Clint Helander [img:center]http://lh5.ggpht.com/_2jAtcezr53I/RaxmiR4DYuI/AAAAAAAAEX0/f353r_re0Yo/s512/85-Mt%20McKinley%20%28L%29%20beyond%20Mt%20Mausolus%20%28R%29.JPG[/img] An aerial photo of the west face of Mt. Mausolus. Photo by Cliff Cochran. Our route takes the obvious direct line leading up to the summit from the major snow cone. [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF3QuY27-I/AAAAAAAADYc/6cGZNf3yBtE/s512/IMG_1601.JPG[/img] The 4,500' west face of Mt. Mausolus [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF3hoPns8I/AAAAAAAADYs/ovSFMwFF-3Q/s912/IMG_1610.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZFxjQFq35I/AAAAAAAADUg/O70fzNstC2I/s640/IMG_1395.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZFyAynQs-I/AAAAAAAADU0/mscTZ7MYKQo/s912/IMG_1408.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZFx2mojFuI/AAAAAAAADUo/XPpCVPTMwTk/s640/IMG_1404%20-%20Copy.JPG[/img] The upper 2,500' were continuous perfect, steep, unadulterated water ice. [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZFyKwV4q-I/AAAAAAAADU4/LXL0exFdLms/s512/IMG_1420.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZFy_-8YTaI/AAAAAAAADVU/x2ZldNlKt1E/s512/IMG_1436.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZFznEgxDyI/AAAAAAAADVo/PP14SoQty3E/s512/IMG_1445.JPG[/img] We started getting some good rockfall here so we searched for a bivy. There wasn't much. We found one shitty snow mushroom and a small rock to sit on. The ropes and sleeping pads made for quasi-hammocks and a moderately reasonable bivy. [video:vimeo]21629404 [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZFziJ7I4NI/AAAAAAAADaY/nP9XTV1HFJY/s640/IMG_1459.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZFzzEu0LkI/AAAAAAAADV0/yg1bobW5o9M/s640/IMG_1463.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZFzZCbIZRI/AAAAAAAADVg/gpEWYmR5Tug/s640/IMG_1441.JPG[/img] Looking up at the crux pitches above [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF0GScP3rI/AAAAAAAADWA/D6JEH4bdcLI/s512/IMG_1469.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF0TNa915I/AAAAAAAADWQ/lGyN0Uy2DTo/s512/IMG_1477.JPG[/img] I like this image a lot. If you look at Scotty's frontpoints you can see that they are barely in. This is a good indicator of just how dense and hard the ice was. [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF0aNhodfI/AAAAAAAADWU/vWHmi-By0ZY/s512/IMG_1478.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF02NV5jpI/AAAAAAAADWk/tnC60_RviGY/s512/IMG_1485.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF1O42M_CI/AAAAAAAADW8/KNwaS40-3os/s512/IMG_1497.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF1byEPDrI/AAAAAAAADXA/CkkPPcdLcxk/s640/IMG_1499.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF10qS1WOI/AAAAAAAADXU/7BTCorfjQ10/s640/IMG_1506.JPG[/img] [img:center]https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF2Fd13FGI/AAAAAAAADXk/YaA_f_BV-1U/s640/IMG_1510.JPG[/img] We topped out at dusk to a beautiful view. After a quick brew up just below the summit, we rappelled for almost nine hours before diving into a cave to sleep for the day. [img:center]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_-ROEgASjzLM/TZF38VjISII/AAAAAAAADa4/WnTtkryQVi0/s640/IMG_1636.JPG[/img] Over the next two days we skied 35 miles out to a remote lodge where we were picked up by our pilot. Gear Notes: Double rack of cams, nuts, pins, eight screws. Should have brought more screws, less rock rack. Approach Notes: A very expensive flight. Skied out to a lodge.

strong work! Looks worthy!

strong work! Looks worthy!

Selling a brand new Black Diamond Cliff Cabana Double Portaledge with Fly. I'd rather free climb. Retails for $1,150. I'm selling it for $800. I'm currently in Yosemite, should be here all October. I can still have it shipped, for cost to anywhere in the lower 48. Or, if you're heading to the valley, come pick it up! interested? PM or call me at 907-227-3291. Paypal would be the easiest way to do it.

damn daniel. I feel your pain. it took us two FULL days on a winter attempt to get to the bivy site below thin man's squeeze. It was the worst trenching I've ever done. I did a lot of the vertical leading with two tools and a shovel clipped to my harness. bleh!

Talkeetna Air Taxi frequently updates conditions in the range. here is the link. Sounds like there's lots of snow on routes, the Ruth received almost two meters of snow last week. Sounds like ice is not as thick on many climbs that need it (ham n eggs, shaken not stirred, etc) That being said, we have warm temps in anchorage right now so the freeze/thaw conditions should be starting to pick up. TAT BLOG: http://talkeetnaair.com/_blog/Talkeetna_Air_Taxi_Blog

What do the folks who have climbed in Patagonia use for an approach/climbing boot when rock shoes won't work? I'm looking at a the La Sportiva Trango Extreme EVO Light GTX. Slightly insulated, fully crampon compatible, light, sturdy and technical. I already have the Nepal Extremes but those may be a little too much. Not interested in The Baturas...those things are about as durable as a used jimmy hat. Thoughts?

Shannon, that could work just fine, but it depends on snow conditions. I would expect much deeper, unconsolidated snow and maybe less alpine ice. A positive though would be less/if any crowds on the route. Go get it, it's great!