Kraken

Charlie Bell?

Arc, i'm not trying to slam you here man, or tell you that you couldn't/shouldn't do something, but I've gotta ask: why publicize it so much? The way I see it, you're only setting yourself up for defeat. By advertising what you're going to do, you're not only building critics (maybe that's what you want) but you're putting more pressure on yourself. You've got something to prove? Fine. Do it, then report about it. You want to solo what is arguably the hardest route on Rainier with the most objective hazards...in the Wintertime. Your likelihood of defeat outnumbers your odds of success by 20:1...on a good day. I'm not saying you shouldn't or can't. I'm saying you should do it, then report it. People (those who matter anyway) will respect you whether you are successful or not, at that time. Don't play it up so much. Just go do it, and do it for the right reasons. Best of luck though!

when was the last time someone made a successful ascent of Thermo?

wow man, great photos!

this would have been a lot cooler if you would have broadcasted this after you did it. Either way, be safe. Hope to see you in the outdoor section of the times and not the obituary.

"WOW" pretty much says it. What are we thinking here? Will they be able to do work on it at all this winter or is it mostly going to have to wait for the snow to melt? That's way worse than I had pictured it.

i usually carry a bolt gun and about 450 bolts.

i just picked up a pair of the 70 Sterling Evolution 8.4 duetto drys yesturday and spent a long time debating this myself. The extra weight in the alpine setting does add up, and I pondered how often i would climb a bunch of 70m pitches in the chugach. I ended up going with the 70s simply because it offers more options. I figured that if after using them for a while and I end up hating that extra 10m, I could always trim them down to 60m. It also eliminates the need for double rappels on many of the ice/rock lines around here that are normally rope stretchers.

I work at a small mom and pop high end gear shop that is literally right across the street from REI. For more than 30 years, it has been competing with REI, and doing well. We dominate the XC ski business as well as the climbing one in terms of what we carry and the quantity we sell. I think the reason we do so well stems from our expertise, experience, and knowledge. We also have those who will only shop at the local biz too. Shops like Feathered Friends, Second Ascent, etc need to continue delivering that expert customer service, knowledge and climbing/skiing/etc experience. At the end of the day...anyone can sell a coat to anyone, but not everyone can sell the right coat to the right customer. As far as whether REI is a great company to work for...I think it depends who you are. I know lots of people who have worked there...some like it, some think it sucks. Some people know their craft, others don't. No one can really blame a company for expanding and growing...that's capitalism. Don't get me wrong, I don't always agree with it, but what can you do?

-Serpentine Arete - Dragontail peak -A 10 day straight slog-fest involving three summits of the Ranyay and one summit of Olympus -A failed attempt on Forbidden's East Ridge Direct route -Lots of cragging -Beer -Armchair climbing

Mister Gator, when can we expect a detailed report from the NPS regarding next year's situation at Muir? I realize there must be lots of stuff to iron out, but should we be expecting some word sooner rather than later?

That's funny what he said about Thomas Humar. Steve was just up here in AK a few days ago giving a slideshow. I ran into him at the Alaska Rock Gym and got to boulder with him for about two hours also. I hadn't read the article in outside magazine until just now, but i did ask him what he thought about Humar. I thought he'd give the guy a little credit (not saying I think he deserves it) but he basically said the guy was legitimately crazy and weird. As far as Steve being a loudmouth...I didn't see it. Then again, I don't know the guy, but from the time i spent with him, the only impression I got was just how nice and modest he was. He might be opinionated, but not in a negative way. He's a first class guy in my opinion and deserves the credit he gets. IMO his reasonings and opinions regarding alpinism and minimalism are justified for the most part. This argument has been beaten to death many times before, but the future of alpinism will always trend towards House-style ascents and not ones that resemble the seige tactics of that used on Jannu.

atta boy Joel!

ahhhhh man...can't wait for ice.

damn that's a good price. I have these...love 'em.

just picked up this Arcteryx sweater for $65 off of $129 with this order...sweet deal http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductD...ENS_CLOTHING_SA

Used for one season on Rainier, size 12. Super comfortable. Make me an offer. Click here for info

The Predator pack can't be beat. I bought that thing in April and put over 100 days in it since then. I expected to send it back to BD after it fell apart, but that thing took it all and doesn't even show any wear. I love that pack. Definitely fond of that company.

that's why you ski in from the highway.

gotta keep a tight leash around here...slackers!

have you guys ever seen any of the E-Climb stuff? they have interchangable tips in their ice screws. Pretty rad stuff. They also have some amazing looking tools. Pricey, but that's because they come from Spain and are a small company. I think a few people climbed on them at last year's Ouray Ice Comp. www.E-Climb.com

if the current conditions in Anchorage reflect anything that is going on up in the big range, it should be a good year. Many of the peaks above 4-5000 feet already have some pretty significant snow on them. With all of the precip we have had up here this summer the hills are saturated. Not sure if it translates to the AK range, but who knows. People are already getting antsy about ice and snow...many feel it will be a great winter > meaning a probable good spring. Just a thought.

good on ya rad, that's a cool route...I'll have to come back and finish it next summer. BTW, did you have any difficulty finding the ledges on the descent?

Taken from the Alaska Mountain Forum Update On Possible Denali-Foraker Fee Hike -From the AAC email newsletter: In first quarter of this year, rumors began surfacing that Denali National Park Superintendent Paul Anderson was considering raising the current $200 special-use fee to attempt Denali or Mt. Foraker to $500, if not $1,000. When this idea was floated at a concessionaires’ meeting, it quickly spread to websites and climbing magazines. Letters of objection to the park office and Alaska’s congressional delegation soon followed. In response, the AAC took an investigative approach, which ultimately led to several meetings with Denali’s superintendent and Alaska’s regional director of the National Park Service (NPS). In addition to communicating the club’s opposition to any fee increase, AAC President Jim Donini and Treasurer Charlie Sassara explored with the NPS leaders the deeper questions regarding the park’s budget shortfall and what the AAC could do to help in this effort. Going forward, the AAC’s approach is to continue the dialogue with the NPS while keeping Alaska’s congressional delegation and state and local representatives informed. The club is hopeful, but also prepared to fight any fee increase. Some of the points the AAC feels strongly about include: * The AAC maintains that mountain climbing is not only a legitimate visitor use of Denali National Park, but also is specifically one of the purposes for the expansion of the park in 1980 and not a special use, as the park maintains. * The AAC supports a self-reliance ethic, which calls for climbers to pay their fair share. * The AAC has never asked for any special services from Denali National Park and Preserve, nor the expansion or development of the South District Ranger Station. The AAC is opposed to climbers paying the cost of normal park operations, which are covered by federal taxes. * The AAC believes that an increase in the fee will preclude access for low- to medium-income climbers. * The AAC believes that an increase in the fee will result in raising expectations that rescues are guaranteed. * The AAC believes Denali National Park’s senior management is expanding the scope of fee recovery program beyond its original intent. * With the current $200 fee, Denali and Foraker climbers already pay the additional special services identified under the fee program, as associated with mountaineering on those peaks. * The AAC is opposed to an increase in the mountaineering special use fee because it is unfair, inequitable, and overreaching. Feel free to move this to a seperate forum location if it fits better there.

Thank God I always fly red eye and never have to worry about hot girls flying on my flights...Luckily I always feel safe and get sat next to some fat old lady with a 'stache.