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JosephH

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Everything posted by JosephH

  1. I don't know, but it seems like you're kind of doomed from the start if you need a tarp. I think you either have to get all stout and burly (think Baffin Island or Russian capsule assaults on high altitude big walls) or you have to be outfitted solid and move as fast as possible. Hunkered down suffering inch by inch in fierce biting winds, or brunch with Bloody Marys? Hmmmm? Waiter! Pepper vodka please...
  2. Dunno, the forecast looks good for Sunday from what I can see. So long as you have the right setup to wear for cold weather climbing it should be fine so long as the sun is out. Here's a dated post of the setup I use. Not sure what the equivalent outer tights and jacket would be these days, but the rest of it is all still available. Works great for me anyway (though you want shoes loose enough to wear warm socks comfortably for circulation). Edit: This works for free climbing; nothing's really going to keep you warm belaying aid this time of year...
  3. After two months of flu / pnemonia and doing zip besides sitting and sleeping I'm going to try and run [my weak, fat ass] up the Corner or / and YW on Sunday. Anyone interested post up or pm me.
  4. Jenni Lowe and Conrad Anker set up the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation (ALCF) which, among other programs, established the Khumbu Climbing School in Phortse, Nepal to increase the safety margin of Nepali climbers and high altitude workers. They happily accept donations to it at: http://www.active.com/donate/alcf.
  5. JosephH

    9/11 faked?

    Keelung. Last time I was there it was home to prolific counterfeiters and some of the most beautiful women in the world. Tall women with long, jet-black hair and large, steel grey-blue eyes. Can still feel my neck spinning around this way and that to follow them as they'd walk by. Breathtaking.
  6. That's a good deal for someone so inclined.
  7. JosephH

    9/11 faked?

    Post up when a thousand WTC office workers, janitors, security guards, network administrators, painters, drywall guys, and electricians sign a petition. That's because there's no way to effectively rig a floor of a highrise office tower with explosives without a shitload of people knowing about it. Why? Because to be effective you have to mount the charges against the structural members and to do that you'd need to basically gut your average office floor and put it back together without any of the people involved with maintaining and working on that floor on a daily basis knowing about it. You'd have to re-rock it without dust and repaint without smell. You'd have to fuse and power your charges without fucking up any of the existing network / telecom / and power wiring, terminals, devices, and operation - and without your newly installed network of fuses ever being noticed. You'd have to move a large volume of charges, fusing, sheetrock, primer, paint, and tools up to the floor with no one noticing as well as carry down and dispose of a great deal of waste and scrap material. Architects? Architects don't know shit about building and remodeling things - let alone doing it without a single trace. And CIA / DIA? Lots of clever people with great skills, but last I checked sanding drywall wasn't one of them. Hell, what are the odds of someone tearing up a floor in your house to spray paint a red 'X' on every forth exterior 2x4 and putting it all back together perfectly - flaws, nicks, stains and all - without dust, smell, and without you noticing anything? Let me help you out with the answer - zero.
  8. If they aren't titanium glue-ins you should consider bolts there as dubious.
  9. No, with two sixties the Dutchman rap goes straight down the Dutchman with the line of the route in your face high and on your immediate right lower down.
  10. Flying Dutchman is on your immediate right all the way up (or down) when you do the rap off the west end of Grassy Ledges. Bears is on your immediate left.
  11. Any countertop / headstone / monument place will fix up the stone, but the countertop folks will likely charge more.
  12. JosephH

    Close Gitmo?

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abdullah_Gulam_Rasoul At best he was an absolute nobody with an AK before Gitmo who was interested in fighting a northern warlord we restored to power than fighting us. IF, and that's a big 'if', he's the same guy now being reported - and remember, that's being reported by Afghan sources - then he's a leader of our manufacture.
  13. I'm pretty sure you meant sandstone...
  14. Having had a house in HR and an apartment in PDX for work for years I drove 84 like a million times between the two. Pretty hard not to wish it had all firmed up more. If it had, it would be like the Blue Mountains east of Sydney - paradise (well, minus the flocks of parrots that strip your car and house of trim).
  15. Let's get real, from start to finish the entire ACORN episode amounts to a single drop in an ocean represented by a hundred years of systemic efforts to deny blacks the right to vote and to obstruct and complicate that right in every conceivable way possible. Look at the legal record and those efforts continue to this day throughout the country. ACORN? Insignificant in scope and scale in every way compared to republican's continuous efforts to prevent blacks from voting.
  16. I used a Jensen back in those days as well - absolutely fabulous pack and climbed great.
  17. It does dawn on me I was wearing one of those pre-poly, open-mesh cotton t-shirts. Those things were pretty damn funny, but they did help some, or maybe it was a placebo effect.
  18. Saying I 'climbed' it is a bit of a stretch, more like got chided and chastised up it as I kept attempting to leave the ice and get on rock in order to give the undersides of my soaked wrists a break. As it was, it was my first, last, and only experience ice climbing. Three days later when I headed over to Boulder it was laying in a massive heap across [the old] I-70 and had to go back to town til they cleared off. If there's any activity where the advances in apparel made a world of difference between then and now it's ice climbing. That and the wooden handled Chouinard hammers were less than optimal.
  19. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/co_ice__mixed/glenwood_canyon_ice/106084818
  20. I did Glenwood Falls in '76 seconding another guy. All I really remember is jeans, wool, Chiounard hammers, shitty french screws, water running down my wrists, and a lot of very early dry tooling to get the hell off the ice as often as possible.
  21. Pop quiz, check the boxes where real value is added to our economy by the humans involved.
  22. JosephH

    If

    Trump and Palin will solve the Mideast problem in 2013 just as soon as she figures out where it is and he figures out how to add gambling and drinking exemptions to the koran.
  23. Bryan, it's a matter of different personal priorities and perspectives. You put up your routes with yours; I put up mine with mine. I wouldn't say your routes are overbolted, though the one high bolt on the line left of TV isn't necessary given the good pro at that spot. But we talked about that and I understand how that one came about. My only real complaint about your routes is I wish you were shorter. As for the not breaking bones when you're out of shape part, well hmmmm. Personally I just don't get on some routes until I'm back into sufficient shape to do them. Each spring I defer leads on HV and the Oracle and climb other things for quite awhile until I'm again up to dealing with them. Definitely wouldn't want to see either bolted so there were no consequences to getting on either unprepared. Or, as Mark Hudon said at the prospect of attempting to onsight the Oracle, "finally, something serious." or words to that effect. Different strokes...
  24. JosephH

    If

    Well, that doesn't surprise me you being a republican - honestly I don't know how you tell a straight republican from a gay or drug addicted one, they all sound the same. And true, I must admit, once you flush those troublesome, gay Nuremberg trials from your consciousness life is just so much simpler and serene. Obviously no reason why our national morality shouldn't be as bankrupt as our economy. War crimes, crimes against humanity - minor irritants! And hell, aren't we all just a little Serbic when it comes right down to it and we're trying to get things done? God knows, with all our modern technology and guys like Johnny Yoo on our side we damn well ought to be able to come up with a stain-proof flag.
  25. I dunno, I sure wouldn't want all routes to be PG. And pro gets 'tricky', challenging, and even marginal sometimes out in the 'real' world and that's just part of trad climbing. It would be boring as snot if all pro were obvious, simple to place, and always right where you want it; might as well just go sport climbing in that case. The whole point of trad climbing from my perspective is to be able to think and climb hard at the same time. Could be this falls under the easier-to-say-than-to-do mantra of "keeping it real".
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