JosephH

I thought is was mainly the Sturgeon...

I have no problem being left out of guidebooks and in fact asked Tim to leave me out - but, I also asked him to not include my routes. It's pretty much a dick move to include my lines anyway, but it's not like I've ever had any expectations around how this was going to go. I care more about it being published at all and don't care a wit whether I get 'credit'. As far as the grades at DZ goes - the only lines that need explicit r/x ratings that I know of are Hollow Victory and the Oracle. Both are dead serious leads. If they are getting published anyway it's imperative those caveats are clearly and explicitly stated and I've conveyed that to Tim and on MP.com. But if r/x doesn't get that message across I don't know what would. As far as things being underated I'd disagree and say they are entirely consistent with Beacon ratings. Two Farsides isn't weak? Two walls named the same at different crags is way different than two crags named the same. Again, two Smiths in OR? How about a second Eldo or Diamond in CO? That's the definition of weak. And there's another route called 'Freaking Freely'? Sorry, that's just strange, never heard of anyone doubling up on route names. And speaking of FF - love it - but people don't climb it because of the start, the first 'pinnacle' block, the loose blocks in the slot, and the strange anchoring / finish. I wouldn't get my hopes up there regardless of what gets published. And publishing the LO crag is just plain ignorant - you'll only piss off the railroad guys who are the same crew who manage the tracks at Beacon - smooth, real smooth. It could easily be the same sort of nightmare that will happen with WDOT if folks ever start parking on the north side of the road at DZ.

sure, but not two...how about let's call the next cobblestone find in OR 'Smith'. I emailed Tim and asked him to just not include it, but of course, no one would get strokes that way.

The syncline sports a massive, deep, high-angle boulder field which is an ideal hibernation zone for the little suckers.

Rattlesnake central that close to the syncline.

This looks to be in the line of sight and fit those pics...

Yeah, "Bingen Gap" and "The Syncline" describe the same geological feature.

I'd say that's Memaloose Island with Lyle in the background and running the lines in that shot would put the pic at the top of Bingen Gap or one of two or three short cliff lines just east of it.

I've never had any problem sprucing up the lines I like every season. One quick go and they're done for the season. Also, I get it that the social frenzy of development is great fun, but when that expands to every millimeter and twenty foot line you have realize that not every archeological dig is going to yield treasure. Sometimes the treasure is in the camaraderie of the digging, not in what's found. Divide the results into 'classics' and 'stuff-we-dug-out' and way less than half are going to be classics, some will get climbed occasionally, and the rest will be reclaimed by the moss and that will be the case no matter how much 'traffic' happens. No 'traffic' of any kind is required to keep routes worth climbing open. I find it a bit remarkable no one wants to deal with the two WA Farsides issue, not really a useful situation and feels a whole lot more like denial than common sense. They've already qualified this one: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washington/exit_38_far_side/105797433 How will the southern one be eventually qualified, 'Ozone / Farside'?

Ozone is soooo much better I can't think of a single reason why anyone would bother.

Thanks, stuff has been coming down from up by Dods this year, but I don't suspect it's people. There is a band of bad rock up there under the free hanging part of the first rap off the trail using Andrew's anchor. Not sure what else it could be, though it's entirely possible there's another chute up there that needs to be cleaned out or terraced. The piece over by Cruising could be a remnant from the big rock fall in March, hard to say, but thats about where stuff from higher on the rockfall scar would land. Bill and I were pretty thorough in our cleanup but anything is possible.

Thoughts? Sure. The gambling and drinking are overrated.

Yeah, my buddy Marco's (and his shoes, too) as it was about 95 and a thousand percent humidity. I chalked up at the start, but then I can never remember to chalk again and didn't/don't have the head to do it in the middle of a sequence. You'd be able to tell if I had been using it because I'd have chalk up to my elbows and all over my face.

Had a bad case of flu for the past two weeks with likely a week to go before I can get out again. Steve, the main face, and every face, at DZ was always called DZ - there was no point at which DZ or any face was called FS at all until some folks decided the name needed to change for what reason I still haven't heard.

Steve, where EXACTLY are these impacts happening?

What about the fact there is already a Farside in WA that pre-dates DZ/FS? Seems a little crazy to have two crags named the same in the same state which would then need to be annotated Farside North or Farside South. And that sort of annotation is usually reserved for different cliffs at the same crag. Pretty confusing when you start talking about NW or WA state guides or lists.

Ah, the one going up to Tim's old funk-brackets. That would put the piles of moss on upper p3 and where you first come up to Grassy Ledges, is that correct? Doesn't strike me that there was that much moss on the wall there - possibly higher up I suppose (below the YW p4 ledge). I thought that line had been bolted and chopped. A perfect example of something I'd take the Crack-N-Ups and #1-3 Lowballs on.

I don't think it was so much that they believed we should have followed those protocols so much as we tried and executed Japanese and Nazi officers and politicians for the same behaviors and told the world we expected them not to not disregard those protocols. Proud. Good to know I served to protect the freedom of the executive to behave in the same manner as people the United States convicted and executed as war criminals.

You guys can call it what you like, it will always be DZ to me. But it's better Jim doesn't get on the Internet. Supertopo alone is a hotbed of nephilum, reptilians, aliens, and cult Christians - he'd be so busy posting he'd never climb again.

And here is Kevin who's already gone and to whom it was Drop Zone.

At the anchor? Or where from the anchor? Can't imagine there being anything above there worth the effort. Hmm, missed this one both places. Yeah, rigged right, hooks are pretty handy, or at least better than nothing. Crack-N-ups in particular are nice to have if you watch ebay long enough to snag a set.

On 'The Wizard' (as in "help me, help me, Mr. Wizard!!!") - Crow Hill, '86

I'd take the aid trees. Already have a set of Moof's cuffs.

That's getting off way, way cheap...

Looks like the east end of the ledge at Beacon during the recent party.