JosephH

Could have been worse, you could have been motivated to get out for a bunch of pitches on friday and then come back out Saturday for another round starting with belaying someone up RR. Then you proceed to keel over and pass out on top of your belay device once they get to the anchor effectively stranding them up there until some kind Ledge partyers come to their aid and free them from your belay device.

No, they weren't 'in leiu' of any pins, we didn't own any pins when we did it. The only pins that have ever been on the route are the two pins after the original high bolt.

We do know it was either McGown or Foster depending on the date and both those ascents were done with the single high bolt. The additional lower two bolts were added after the FFA. Apparently know one knows by who. They were already in place by the time Olson did it according to him.

You keep posting that, what's your point? Leaving for Bacon...

There you go...

If I were placing a protection bolt on an FA at Beacon I would hand drill it. But for anchor work or rebolting - what's the point? If the bolts that are there get replaced, they'll be getting replaced where they are. I don't 'think' the bolts need replacing, the bolts need replacing. The question on the table is whether two should be removed and the top one restored to its original location. Yep, I'm doing you a favor, though in this case I doubt you'll ever be on the route. Both Nates are up for it, just ask them and Farrgo's already been working it. The bolts getting either removed or replaced, and the pins are getting checked - get over it.

So the question remains: restore it to the FA condition or just replace the retro'd bolts?

No, we do know who did the FFA - either McGown or Foster and whichever one did it, they did it on the single high bolt. The only part of the history we don't know at this point according to Wayne is who retro'ed in the other to bolts and moved the top bolt down.

Wait a minute - weren't you just going on about respecting the FA and the "rules of climbing"? So you guys are all up about Wayne and Bob doing the route (as I am regardless of who did the FFA), but you suddenly don't care about in the style the FA and FFA was done in? Hmmmm, curiouser and curiouser; I think I can feel the Beacon Reality-Distortion Field Generator about to go into overdrive to explain this one... I'd sure be interested as to what would constitute a "good reason" for someone not the FA or FFA adding two bolts to a climb and lowering a third one three feet. Hey, what about tradition? What about 'the rules of climbing'? What about the style of the FA and FFA? At least the first three free ascents were done with the single high bolt. It would be good to know who added the additional bolts, but we can easily surmise why they did without asking them.

On talking to Wayne he said he and Bob didn't retrobolt the route. So it begs the question of who did and should it be restored to the condition that it was done in originally. Anyone know who added the existing bolts?

I sent Shane an email asking about. Will post up when he replies.

It's the same solid belay with or without a device.

Well, if you can't make it, I'd be happy to belay instead. Or if Kenny can't make it Saturday, I'd be happy to give Kevin a belay on it tomorrow afternoon.

I wasn't saying it was Head Case, just that Head Case is a great and particularly interesting route. It isn't Head Case or Siege Tactics so it's one of the other newer lines.

Do you guys prefer orbital, belt, drum, or I see the Drillspot has 'finger sheets' ?

Lots of hip replacement talk on SuperTopo - the in spot for really old, really beat up climbers.

No, you can just walk from the sidewalk down to Head Case on the wall opposite you as you head down the trail and all the routes are fairly obvious. Head Case in particular is really nice.

Wayne, maybe you and Jeff Thomas could get a group discount (and maybe there are more resources over on MP or ST): http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1273521&msg=1274196#msg1274196 Good luck with it, I had a similar diagnosis on my shoulder, hope your doc is wrong.

Per the other thread. These are on the NW face (north of the trail), not the West face (south of the trail):

As always, feel free to point out when something I say about Beacon isn't either fact or clearly delineated as my opinion. And gee whiz, if the fact I do stuff out there or post here chaps your already hard-driven asses I'll take that as bonus points and see what I can do in the way of finding some 20-grit.

Will be trying to get out in the afternoon, but will definitely be out for this month's full moon go on YW around 9-10pm.

Originally Posted By: JosephH When we got on it we coincidentally and without realizing it had squeaked in after Bob had aided it, but before they freed it. There was a fixed wire and a couple of 1/4" bolts if I recall correctly, so it was a mixed line even then. But Foster did rings in college, was / is fearless to a fault, soloed a few 12s, and we lived for doing roofs so it wasn't much of a stretch for him. I was actually sketching on it way more following than he did on lead. Edit: It would have been on my old rack that was later stolen so it would have been on nuts and original Friends of which I had a double sets. As I recall I freed up to the base of Silver Crow going out left from the Pipeline anchor after we finished Stone Rodeo. It was a good day and we hadn't seen each other in quite awhile. Your point?

Not at all, if those dates on SR aren't correct then it's entirely possible my friend merely got the third free ascent of it.

There you go then, Kevin's your man. Like the two diameter idea.

"Convenient for you" - unless he wrote it for me I don't see how. Or are facts somehow convenient or inconvenient to you other than just being facts?