JosephH

If they aren't titanium glue-ins you should consider bolts there as dubious.

No, with two sixties the Dutchman rap goes straight down the Dutchman with the line of the route in your face high and on your immediate right lower down.

Flying Dutchman is on your immediate right all the way up (or down) when you do the rap off the west end of Grassy Ledges. Bears is on your immediate left.

Any countertop / headstone / monument place will fix up the stone, but the countertop folks will likely charge more.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abdullah_Gulam_Rasoul At best he was an absolute nobody with an AK before Gitmo who was interested in fighting a northern warlord we restored to power than fighting us. IF, and that's a big 'if', he's the same guy now being reported - and remember, that's being reported by Afghan sources - then he's a leader of our manufacture.

I'm pretty sure you meant sandstone...

Having had a house in HR and an apartment in PDX for work for years I drove 84 like a million times between the two. Pretty hard not to wish it had all firmed up more. If it had, it would be like the Blue Mountains east of Sydney - paradise (well, minus the flocks of parrots that strip your car and house of trim).

Let's get real, from start to finish the entire ACORN episode amounts to a single drop in an ocean represented by a hundred years of systemic efforts to deny blacks the right to vote and to obstruct and complicate that right in every conceivable way possible. Look at the legal record and those efforts continue to this day throughout the country. ACORN? Insignificant in scope and scale in every way compared to republican's continuous efforts to prevent blacks from voting.

I used a Jensen back in those days as well - absolutely fabulous pack and climbed great.

It does dawn on me I was wearing one of those pre-poly, open-mesh cotton t-shirts. Those things were pretty damn funny, but they did help some, or maybe it was a placebo effect.

Saying I 'climbed' it is a bit of a stretch, more like got chided and chastised up it as I kept attempting to leave the ice and get on rock in order to give the undersides of my soaked wrists a break. As it was, it was my first, last, and only experience ice climbing. Three days later when I headed over to Boulder it was laying in a massive heap across [the old] I-70 and had to go back to town til they cleared off. If there's any activity where the advances in apparel made a world of difference between then and now it's ice climbing. That and the wooden handled Chouinard hammers were less than optimal.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/co_ice__mixed/glenwood_canyon_ice/106084818

I did Glenwood Falls in '76 seconding another guy. All I really remember is jeans, wool, Chiounard hammers, shitty french screws, water running down my wrists, and a lot of very early dry tooling to get the hell off the ice as often as possible.

Pop quiz, check the boxes where real value is added to our economy by the humans involved.

Trump and Palin will solve the Mideast problem in 2013 just as soon as she figures out where it is and he figures out how to add gambling and drinking exemptions to the koran.

Bryan, it's a matter of different personal priorities and perspectives. You put up your routes with yours; I put up mine with mine. I wouldn't say your routes are overbolted, though the one high bolt on the line left of TV isn't necessary given the good pro at that spot. But we talked about that and I understand how that one came about. My only real complaint about your routes is I wish you were shorter. As for the not breaking bones when you're out of shape part, well hmmmm. Personally I just don't get on some routes until I'm back into sufficient shape to do them. Each spring I defer leads on HV and the Oracle and climb other things for quite awhile until I'm again up to dealing with them. Definitely wouldn't want to see either bolted so there were no consequences to getting on either unprepared. Or, as Mark Hudon said at the prospect of attempting to onsight the Oracle, "finally, something serious." or words to that effect. Different strokes...

Well, that doesn't surprise me you being a republican - honestly I don't know how you tell a straight republican from a gay or drug addicted one, they all sound the same. And true, I must admit, once you flush those troublesome, gay Nuremberg trials from your consciousness life is just so much simpler and serene. Obviously no reason why our national morality shouldn't be as bankrupt as our economy. War crimes, crimes against humanity - minor irritants! And hell, aren't we all just a little Serbic when it comes right down to it and we're trying to get things done? God knows, with all our modern technology and guys like Johnny Yoo on our side we damn well ought to be able to come up with a stain-proof flag.

I dunno, I sure wouldn't want all routes to be PG. And pro gets 'tricky', challenging, and even marginal sometimes out in the 'real' world and that's just part of trad climbing. It would be boring as snot if all pro were obvious, simple to place, and always right where you want it; might as well just go sport climbing in that case. The whole point of trad climbing from my perspective is to be able to think and climb hard at the same time. Could be this falls under the easier-to-say-than-to-do mantra of "keeping it real".

I thought is was mainly the Sturgeon...

I have no problem being left out of guidebooks and in fact asked Tim to leave me out - but, I also asked him to not include my routes. It's pretty much a dick move to include my lines anyway, but it's not like I've ever had any expectations around how this was going to go. I care more about it being published at all and don't care a wit whether I get 'credit'. As far as the grades at DZ goes - the only lines that need explicit r/x ratings that I know of are Hollow Victory and the Oracle. Both are dead serious leads. If they are getting published anyway it's imperative those caveats are clearly and explicitly stated and I've conveyed that to Tim and on MP.com. But if r/x doesn't get that message across I don't know what would. As far as things being underated I'd disagree and say they are entirely consistent with Beacon ratings. Two Farsides isn't weak? Two walls named the same at different crags is way different than two crags named the same. Again, two Smiths in OR? How about a second Eldo or Diamond in CO? That's the definition of weak. And there's another route called 'Freaking Freely'? Sorry, that's just strange, never heard of anyone doubling up on route names. And speaking of FF - love it - but people don't climb it because of the start, the first 'pinnacle' block, the loose blocks in the slot, and the strange anchoring / finish. I wouldn't get my hopes up there regardless of what gets published. And publishing the LO crag is just plain ignorant - you'll only piss off the railroad guys who are the same crew who manage the tracks at Beacon - smooth, real smooth. It could easily be the same sort of nightmare that will happen with WDOT if folks ever start parking on the north side of the road at DZ.

sure, but not two...how about let's call the next cobblestone find in OR 'Smith'. I emailed Tim and asked him to just not include it, but of course, no one would get strokes that way.

The syncline sports a massive, deep, high-angle boulder field which is an ideal hibernation zone for the little suckers.

Rattlesnake central that close to the syncline.

This looks to be in the line of sight and fit those pics...

Yeah, "Bingen Gap" and "The Syncline" describe the same geological feature.