JosephH

Wet, diamond core bit. Don't hammer drill. In fact, just take it to a countertop or headstone outfit and have them do it.

Learn the drive to Jackson Hollow.

How many climbers can afford to live in neighborhoods with trees?

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1302372/Joe-Puryear-killed-in-Tibet

Ozone Guide for sale on Craigslist (not by me, just saw it...)

What is the food for thought - that gravity kills? It's the old Philly street saw - "fuck around, fuck around, lay around and bleed" or the venerable "if you can't do the the time, don't do the crime" at work. Sanitizing climbing isn't the answer - owning and adjusting your own behavior, needs, and choices is. Scott has clearly adjusted his.

I'd say your latter sentence is the perfect defense for the former.

Me? I go in and out of it. Usually with me, though, it's more about how marginal a pro I feel like climbing over an any given day than how run out it is, though it can be both on 'bad' days.

These discussions always seem to stem from some post that simultaneously covet and vilify some old runout routes.

Why? Maybe they thought people needed a local line to practice for Snake Dike.

Well, that's one opinion; who's to say that opinion should rule the day versus this one:

Who decides? You're immediately back to the lowest common denominator problem. Your perception of 'adequate' may not be shared by the next person who still considers your notion inadequate. What about the person who wants a clip every body length?

Nothing has changed, corporations and the republican leadership are as confident as ever that the average american is dumber than a stump and can be stampeded at will to vote against their own interests.

So am I to take that as a commanding vote for wringing risk out of climbing?

When did it become such an imperative to wring risk out of climbing? And what does that say about what 'climbing' has become?

Depending on your perspective, painting 'safe' routes [at the grade] across a 'public' cliff can be just as much an act of destroying or vandalizing the aesthetics a line as leaving it dicey. Who picks what level of lowest common denominator represents 'safe'? The broader the 'public' you address (serve), the lower that common 'safety' denominator will be by necessity and definition. Who decides that 'safe' trumps other aesthetics or aspects inherent in climbing? And isn't putting up routes for the 'public' or 'community' an ego statement by definition?

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Hey-Coz-Sure-would-like-to-hear-the-story-of-Southern-Belle/t271n.html

Bill is armed mainly so he can feel safe about posting up on Supertopo.

No, we used the Hilti for that rebolt and I always use a helmet for FAs with loose blocks the size of Subarus (but mostly to keep my 'turtle' fleece cap on in cold weather).

We had the second amendment back when the difference between military and civilian armaments were relatively insignificant. These days if an 'evil' government wanted to 'take over' our society they'd shutdown Ore-Ida / McDonalds, commandeer the Internet / cell networks, and nationalize the food and gas distribution networks. Your guns? You might as well be throwing rocks.

The orange sling on Pacific Rim is the sling from my A5 hammer. Work in progress.

Turns out Jim Detterline was in town for a convention at Skamania Lodge over the weekend and came out to Beacon to check it out. We ran into each other on the trail and hooked up for a few pitches. We'd never met before, but knew of each other from the Midwest back in the day. These days he's from Estes Park and one of the main SAR rangers on Longs Peak and still climbing strong, particularly so coming down from 8k feet I'm guessing. We ran up FFA/Dods to the tree and the first two pitches of YW but realized we were behind some folks who needed some time to work things out so we bailed and went and did Menopause up to the high anchor. That was the second time I've been up there this year. I haven't worked on the line since Shane left both because of last year's short season and because from the high anchor up is a pretty serious affair for taking just anyone up. We pretty much have the moves through the big roof with the BD #3 hanging in it worked out but have been trying to find holds / stances up above it to get established on the upper wall - so far without success in the couple of goes we had at it. We've been up there five times and four of those we gave it a pretty good go. Fortunately Shane just moved back to town and we plan on getting back on it so we'll see how it goes. It is an interesting climb to the high anchor. If anyone is interested pm me and I can give you beta on it, otherwise take two 60's if you head up it. The first anchor is at the single bolt about 30-35' above the Rhythm Method anchor.

Almost. Think cat in a dryer.

My bad then, once I'm back together I'll take a look at it.

If I'm not mistaken looking at the second post in this thread you're the one who started doing the pissing. And of course, yeah, it's always so productive to go around on-line about protection on a climb with folks who are never going to try and free it. Good thing the guys who want to have been appreciative about the several days of work that went in to restoring the climb. But it's done now so we should really move on to arguing about restoring Pacific Rim, which I'm sure they'll also have strong opinions about even though they've never been on it either.