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Everything posted by JosephH
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I'd say that's Memaloose Island with Lyle in the background and running the lines in that shot would put the pic at the top of Bingen Gap or one of two or three short cliff lines just east of it.
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I've never had any problem sprucing up the lines I like every season. One quick go and they're done for the season. Also, I get it that the social frenzy of development is great fun, but when that expands to every millimeter and twenty foot line you have realize that not every archeological dig is going to yield treasure. Sometimes the treasure is in the camaraderie of the digging, not in what's found. Divide the results into 'classics' and 'stuff-we-dug-out' and way less than half are going to be classics, some will get climbed occasionally, and the rest will be reclaimed by the moss and that will be the case no matter how much 'traffic' happens. No 'traffic' of any kind is required to keep routes worth climbing open. I find it a bit remarkable no one wants to deal with the two WA Farsides issue, not really a useful situation and feels a whole lot more like denial than common sense. They've already qualified this one: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/washington/exit_38_far_side/105797433 How will the southern one be eventually qualified, 'Ozone / Farside'?
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Ozone is soooo much better I can't think of a single reason why anyone would bother.
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Thanks, stuff has been coming down from up by Dods this year, but I don't suspect it's people. There is a band of bad rock up there under the free hanging part of the first rap off the trail using Andrew's anchor. Not sure what else it could be, though it's entirely possible there's another chute up there that needs to be cleaned out or terraced. The piece over by Cruising could be a remnant from the big rock fall in March, hard to say, but thats about where stuff from higher on the rockfall scar would land. Bill and I were pretty thorough in our cleanup but anything is possible.
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Thoughts? Sure. The gambling and drinking are overrated.
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Yeah, my buddy Marco's (and his shoes, too) as it was about 95 and a thousand percent humidity. I chalked up at the start, but then I can never remember to chalk again and didn't/don't have the head to do it in the middle of a sequence. You'd be able to tell if I had been using it because I'd have chalk up to my elbows and all over my face.
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Had a bad case of flu for the past two weeks with likely a week to go before I can get out again. Steve, the main face, and every face, at DZ was always called DZ - there was no point at which DZ or any face was called FS at all until some folks decided the name needed to change for what reason I still haven't heard.
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Steve, where EXACTLY are these impacts happening?
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What about the fact there is already a Farside in WA that pre-dates DZ/FS? Seems a little crazy to have two crags named the same in the same state which would then need to be annotated Farside North or Farside South. And that sort of annotation is usually reserved for different cliffs at the same crag. Pretty confusing when you start talking about NW or WA state guides or lists.
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Ah, the one going up to Tim's old funk-brackets. That would put the piles of moss on upper p3 and where you first come up to Grassy Ledges, is that correct? Doesn't strike me that there was that much moss on the wall there - possibly higher up I suppose (below the YW p4 ledge). I thought that line had been bolted and chopped. A perfect example of something I'd take the Crack-N-Ups and #1-3 Lowballs on.
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I don't think it was so much that they believed we should have followed those protocols so much as we tried and executed Japanese and Nazi officers and politicians for the same behaviors and told the world we expected them not to not disregard those protocols. Proud. Good to know I served to protect the freedom of the executive to behave in the same manner as people the United States convicted and executed as war criminals.
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You guys can call it what you like, it will always be DZ to me. But it's better Jim doesn't get on the Internet. Supertopo alone is a hotbed of nephilum, reptilians, aliens, and cult Christians - he'd be so busy posting he'd never climb again.
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And here is Kevin who's already gone and to whom it was Drop Zone.
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At the anchor? Or where from the anchor? Can't imagine there being anything above there worth the effort. Hmm, missed this one both places. Yeah, rigged right, hooks are pretty handy, or at least better than nothing. Crack-N-ups in particular are nice to have if you watch ebay long enough to snag a set.
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On 'The Wizard' (as in "help me, help me, Mr. Wizard!!!") - Crow Hill, '86
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Looks like the east end of the ledge at Beacon during the recent party.
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Ah, that's what happened to the Phoenix - the last of our ships sunk by the British. City names these days are on Los Angeles class attack subs. You could have it, wouldn't want anything out of that mount 'cept maybe a 5" star round, fuse wrench, and cap hammer for emergencies.
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Dream, you're in Florida, pretty much means a gym, that's cool, but don't let that define climbing for you. You really want to get outside, and eventually want to lead on gear. Georgia and NC both have good climbing. Actually NC has world-class climbing. Ditto TN, Try to hook up with trad folks from NC during a trip on Rockclimbing.com, SEClimbers.com, or MountainProject.com: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/north_carolina/105873282 http://www.rockclimbing.com/partners/ Let whoever know your situation and that you're looking to learn about trad climbing and would like to second for them (once you are a competent lead belayer).
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It's amazing Mt. Hood type accidents didn't happen with far greater frequency given how old a lot of naval munitions are. In '72 in Vietnam I served on the USS Brooklyn's sister cruiser the USS Providence and spent a year in the 5" gun mount. Most all the rounds we carried and fired were made in the late '30's. Given most of our 16" guns were sunk at Pearl, I'm guessing something like a 20th of the state of New Mexico or somewhere is still stacked to the gills with naval rounds of that size and a shit load of silk powders slowly precipitating nitro crystals on their outer layers. See my post on ST with pics: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1008403&tn=40 P.S. Just a note that wiki says the Brooklyn went to Chile rather than Argentina. The Providence was decommissioned in '73, I got off her just as they started the process once we got back to the states. P.P.S. Happy V-day Bill and all you other vets.
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Why? Does the wife know you're trolling for dates. Dude, stay out of those caves...!
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Hell, at Bacon I've seen folks use their cells for basic belay signalling. That did make me want to do some beating, but the one closest to me was just too good looking for such punishment.
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[TR] Beacon Rawk - - Fresh Squeeze to Squeeze Box - 5.8A4 9/14/2008
JosephH replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Has FS p1-part 2 or p2 ever seen a second free ascent? -
Nah, it's just means that unbolted rock within a two hour driving radius of every metropolitan area big enough to host a gym that folks want to stay that way will likely need to be protected by land managers or the guberment in the coming decades.
