jmace

Hey I have never been and was thinking about making a trip South to check it out this weekend. Is it too early for routes on the east face of Liberty Bell, like Freedom Rider and/or other nearby routes? And if it is a go do I pick up a parking pass beforehand somewhere or the Park entrance? Thanks for the beta Cheers

Video search is superior, you can just hover your mouse over a video and it gives you a preview without having to load up a new page. Image search is similar and nice.

This weekend Squamish weather begins to break down, meaning no guarantees on dry rock next week... 50/50 Tuesday looks wet but its along ways away..

German is more common, can you speak German? I have spent the last few summers climbing there and this will be the first one I am missing...stupid Olympics anyways, joining the CAI is a good start, posting up at UKC for a partner is also a good start. There is a fellow on here who lives in Munich who may be able to push you in the right direction for a partner. I think his online name is MVS, Michael. Super nice guy and climbs often in the Alps If I was you I would try my hardest to make it happen, makes the cascades and sqaumish look like the bunny hill. If you like 25+ pitches of steep rock, no glaciers, beer at the descent gulley while only haveing to carry a few cams nuts and a dozen draws then this is your place. Dont let people try and tell you its crowded with all sorts of people clambering over your belay...its just not true..maybe in Cham but not in the Dolomites. Dont be the classic American, know some German or Italian and make every attempt to use the language you will have a much better reception. Any qeustions just ask, Have fun

As memorial day weekend approaches keep in mind that many routes in the grand wall area are closed including Europa

Look at the initialization time of storm surfs pacific, currently it is using the 6z model run time but there is already a 12 and the 18z is coming shortly. use this site and choose the 500mb vort, ht in the adress where it says 12 you can change to 18 or 00 or 06 for the most up to date model the other products a very usefull as well http://www.nco.ncep.noaa.gov/pmb/nwprod/analysis/npac/gfs/12/model_lu.shtml oh and use this site for satellite stuff that intellicast is sort of choppy http://www.atmos.washington.edu/~ovens/loops/wxloop.cgi?ir_common_full+/24h/ scroll back to loops and you can choose other views and water vapor and so on

The leader knows if he stuffed it in there so if your second cant remove it then lower down take it out yourself or its the leaders loss. If a second drops a piece a gear he pays for it or goes and finds it. Bail gear is 50/50 100$ is never worth losing a friend or making an enemy so if your climbing with a cheap friend buck up and move on.

I know what you guys mean...I thought to myself when I was getting towed into Joffre Creek this winter, man these snowmobilers are assholes, who do they think they are saving me 2 hours of approach time. You should be banned from BC backcountry...

Maybe he means like this [video:youtube]5OmbEkh24r0

I have said it before the MEC alpenlite pack 55$ Canadian. Last two years I have climbed 140+ pitches of Italian dolomites. Plus what I do here in BC plus I dragged it 2000 km on my dirt bike across the Sahara in September, no problems and I had some spectacular wipe outs. [img:left]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3135/2912415777_d71f66451a.jpg[/img] I have 7.5 twins and for the amount of space it takes in my pack I will risk the extra fall in the alpine over carting around anything over 8.5 Lightweight boots I trash in no time and I have had to go back to beefy boots, but I have to have a pair for winter and summer otherwise I still trashem. Any of those mixed material boots dont last me longer than one season. I figure all those light weight boots are for places with easy approacehs like Europe, here in BC you have to go through so much terrain I just dont think anything but full leathers will last any length of time. But even beefy stuff is wearing out, I managed to wear through my BD ATC guide this winter and I have never worn out an ATC like that. How about those Petzl attaches man those wear out in less than a summer, jeez

Really most of the people dying are not the elderly or the young..just regular healthy people.

50 - 100 million is what the 1918 flu killed off according to google, in order to have a similar effect today that would have to be 350 million. They just closed the first school up here in Canadia due to this H1N1

Oh my....I agree with Scott. The powers that be are way over hyping this. It is just a regular flu that some unfortunate folks in Mexico that did not have access to treatment died from. Sounds like your saying that the US already has a vaccine for this strain? Although I agree the media does hype stuff up there really is no way to hype up the fact your own goverment has declared a US health emergency or that the WHO has raised the pandemic alert value to 5. Maybe you are confused on what a pandemic is? Anyways we need a real good pandemic to wipe out a lot of people, ease up on the planet for a bit.

Maybe you should offer a close quarters attack option? "Outfit yourself with the Tsunami package, or, if you prefer brush up on your unarmed defensive fighting skills with the 97 IDPA champion before venturing out on small combat craft. Your arsenal can be anything from custom ivory handled pistols to small fold up knives or even a beautiful walnut cane. We will offer you a custom adventure starting with your firearm and ending with your choice of kill. "

Well I think St Louis is a tough team and Friday is gonna be a good game, I have to disagree though I dont think it will be a sweep! Thanks for rootin for us, Go Nucks GO!!

Oh good idea, ya maybe tomorrow morning or thursday morning would be perfect. I would go but I have some meetings tomorrow morning..but weekend may work out, I am skeptical about saturday being good but if it rains up high Fri/Sat then Sunday maybe a good day as well. If you go post up some condiitons and if you dont I might be interested in having a wander up there on Sunday..

Because something is old doesnt mean its not trendy, have a look at all the kids dressed up like they are from the 80's...its a trend thats the kicker..it doesnt work as well as anything on the market, in fact its far less superior than anything currently available. Furthermore it costs about the same and weighs more than a standard ATC which has more functionality. I like your argument style though, flash a bunch of meaningless pictures for distraction, slide in a few meaningless points..then when that fails you finish it off with a perfect finishing blow: if you dont get it its cause your stupid. Your probably a good sales person.

I deal with it by doing whatever the hell I want..if you cant then you have serioulsy fucked up and you should fix whatever is wong immediately. But dont feel bad most people fall into the same trap then try and pass it off with some stupid shit like "I made sacrifices, I got married, had kids, new job..."ya you fucked up if you cant do whatever you want simple as that. Squamish was sick ass on Tuesday and the ice has been fat all season long, so has the snowboarding, the skiing, and the young university girls have all been uber friendly and summer is just starting yee haa..enjoy your life

I had an interesting experience a few weekends ago. I began a series of raps and the first one was through some fine dust/dirt. The ropes were wet and absorbed this dirt, then I proceeded to do 8 60 m raps, when I got home I noticed the dirty ropes acted like sand paper. They sawed through a significant portion of my biner, sanded off all the ridges on my BD guide device and actually started cutting through the belay device in multiple places. Was quite surprising, the ropes went into the bath and look good as new. However I retired the biner and device

Very true, but be prepared and and grab a blue pill as isurance..you dont want to be left hangin.. What you guys should be doin is finding ways to get more poonani not pumori.

So basically after 8 pages you can sum up all the advice in two words WORK HARDER

I was sitting my ass down and listening..and I was not convinced thats all. I geuss your right I dont see the value in this pack for the price and what you get. Yea I am saying that 95$ US is expensive when for 55$ CAN I get, in my mind, a similar pack Im not sure what you are implying by simple multi-pitch, maybe you mean hauling? But I actually think that pack would be better for rock climbs than ice climbs, at least to me its missing some stuff I find important in a pack wether its hauling one tool and a pair of light weight poons up a rock climb or ice cragging or as you say overnight trips. I am not swayed by lightweight, its a bonus, but as I said MEC stuff is guaranteed for life so plan on having it for more than a few seasons. But in the end its you who has to be happy, and I saw you hyping it up as the be all pack so I thought I would question it, hope you didnt take it personally Cheers Jesse

I do see you are happy with it but I am just not convinced I have put tools in the pack before and generally something gets punctured, especially with alpine tools and the bottom spike. This CCW pack doesnt have a crampon area either, where you can lash them too and not have to worry about punctures and it also seems quite expensive? As far as ice cragging goes a 10L bullet pack is just fine and I can fit a belay jacket and all the other stuff just fine. For something longer or in the alpine I would suggest the 30/35L MEC alpenlite pack over the CCW ozone More than 50% cheaper not including exchange would would be even cheaper for you, half the weight, two tool holsters, crampon patch, guaranteed for life, pack folds up into the lid for travel or packing, foam back pad for bivies, and removable compression straps if you want the clean look like the CCW and you can save even more weight. Sounds like the ozone pack is a little tougher if you plan on doing lots of hauling, but for a pitch or two here and there the MEC pack will be just fine and if you rip it you can get it fixed for free. MEC

Do you find that puts twists in the rope at all?

Ive seen you post this pic everywhere and I keep asking myself why do you need a 35 litre pack for a few pitches of ice? I was also wondering if you use it in the alpine where do you store your tools on the walk out?