jmace

haha not a biggy we had more than our fair share of ice however we were honestly skeptical of Landmark initial pitches and the whiteness of Crunchy Frog..but I suppose you just gotta go have a look which is what we did when we saw bits and pieces of ice up high in the Anthrax Ripple line. So as you mentioned Graham and I climbed Anthrax Ripple which went at 300m of WI4+ with at times challenging ice conditions. The route was phenomenal and I would do it again any time, although if this was a second ascent I suppose I may have to wait another 25 yrs? Fingers crossed for good weather...talk to you this week cheers A few pics, click for larger ones Pitches 1,2 and crux third up high on the narrow pillar, steeper than it looks as usual second p third pitch Crux pitch 3 from below 5th and 6th on the right, more ice hidden in the forest above for pitch 6

Oh the report was gonna come after next weekend..... The initial pitch of Landmark is steep grade 4 according to the guide, it looked quite thin and snowy to us..?? Fer sure the upper curtain is steeeeep River is about upper thigh deep

Watch the original post I put up..well worth the 10 minutes, very entertaining Iam not so sure I agree with Porter but I also could be very wrong..either way its very funny

Politically Correct Valentine Then a brisk walk over to Deception [img:left]http://farm1.static.flickr.com/251/3264123843_af7b3b97ef.jpg[/img]

[video:youtube]Y1xK6xz8d9Q

your life choices are really not sounding that great here man... America sounds so beautiful...thank god for direct flights off this continent

You can reserve but you dont have too You can actually stay in Metro Vancouver for 40$ each? wow, and you want 30$? I pay that in Lillooet good luck and let us know if you find it

Sounds like you need facilites for camping so Chief Campground or you could hang out at Porteau cove campsite and make a short drive. places to go where you wont be a nuisance and vice versa-Assuming you have to have a large group all at once Comic Rocks-not popular Murrin-Reasonably Popular Fatty Bolger and High Cliff area Krack Rock Elephants Arse area cant remember the crag names but in the area Octopus Garden-Popular of course the sport venues at Rogues and Chek are good places too although probably busy Stay Away from Burgers and Fries Neat and Cool Penny Lane

Here ya go, yesterday at 12 it was 12.5c although its rounded up to 13 on this page http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/trends_table/pages/yyd_metric_e.html Tatlayoko Lake is the warmest in Canada today at 10.9c Looks like a warm weekend for Lillooet proper but coolish up pavillion way

Ya I was up at Dream Catcher this weekend and the whole place faces the sun is totally white and actively falling down, I was also there when Bruce climbed it and I would suggest there was more ice then and waaaaay colder. Dream catcher was in full baking sun by 10 am and is fringed with all sorts of daggers. I also scoped entropy and ya if you want to climb white ice quivering in the sun then yup its "in" It looks white and gross from the road I can only imagine how it looks up close which is why I went climbing in Squamish. Pemberton has cold pools of air but its not everywhere, we were in T shirts at the base of Dream Catcher I couldnt seem to get the temp below 10 on my watch but it was so damn sunny out was having a hard time keeping it in the shade Paid or laid has mostly fallen down Ten stitches is also not happening. From the parking area at X'itoclaw it does appear that the routes are not avy threatened but the copious amount of debris at the base would suggest otherwise. I dunno those reports from the road as opposed to climbing reports always seem very optimistic..however I am sure Marble is climbable but.. Craigs a good climber so when he says Loose Lady is in and Steve backed off I bet its in pretty stiff conditions Seems like a mighty tough winter, although I suppose we were due for one after having such amzing ones over the last few seasons Good Luck

Those are some horse feet..no wonder she's a virgin..I dont even know which eye is lookin at me

fgw have any more shots of the Steger..specifically of me and Graham Hope all is well Cheers

Or you can walk out as I did via Polychrome ridge->Job cr. -> Lillooet River to Pumice mine

You are using a 36km domain to look at short term forecasting, try looking at the Nam 12km or even finer the GFS 4km domain why dont you add up the precip on say the west side of the Olympics over 48 hours and see what you get. I get about 18" from the GFS 4Km and about 14 " from the NAM 12km 36km domain is good for long range not great for short range Cheers

Shit I cant even get reception for my iphone outside of Hope...man the Euros got it good

climbed a few routes at Jarvis today, ice is funky, as seen on tv would be a wild lead fer sure.

The Cobbler on west 2nd has great laces and knows exactly what your problems is. He has these nice flat laces that wont loosen I found that by avoiding ther upper lace point and just wrapping the lace once around the boot before tying has worked well and I have continued to use the original lace. I bought flat laces for my Vegas and they have worked quite well. J

whatever

WE climbed Mouse trap today and saw your anchors we were able to top out although it was thin. Second to last pitch is mushy final pitch is good to go. Overall the climb is wet with some holes Valley ice in general is very white and care is needed

Arent you supposed to say that after the weekend...

Lytton Oct Precip 40% of normal Nov Precip 68% of normal Dec so far 32% of normal

De Pencier then you can ski and climb

If things go as forecast you guys could climb there for the rest of December!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Forecast Looks amazing!!!!

Normals are from Lillooet Seton BCHPA site at 198 m 30 yrs worth Current data is from new site operated since 97 at 235 m November Daily avg 2008 5.2 December avg so far 2.7 November Daily Max avg 9.1 December avg Max so far 6.4 November Daily Min avg 1.4 December avg Min so far -1

November Daily average 1.9 December avg -2.1 November Daily avg Max 4.9 December avg max 0.3 November Daily avg Min -1.2 December avg min -5.2