jmace

I dont think much will be burning after this weekend.

I suppose you havent checked the weather forecast, possibly may want to stay away from squish this weekend.

I wonder if this new "whitecap" fire is totally ruining any chances of ever getting in there or maybe its clearing out all the bush. Does any one know if the fire is any where near the acess to N face of whitecap?

left car at 7 arived at dark, so 2- 3 hours to lake approx. Then left lake at 6 and were climbing by 8:45, couple of hours from lake to base. so about 4-5 hour approach, seems like thats about right. I think the guide qoutes about an hour from rugged lake to the base of the face which appears to be alittle bit fast for the youngins with the big racks!! Cool to see this route getting done.

How long from the road did it take you to reach the face? Which side of the river did you go up, did you start across the broken bridge or go up before the broken bridge? 2 parties ahead of you, wow, the place is getting busy!! J

Thats what I figured, care to add any thing else about it, beta wise. thanks

Why is it always in the same tray and why does that tray have so many water drops all over it, unlike the one beside it. Is water dripping on it?

Any one had a look at the N face of Weart recently, or been in the area and wants to specualte on its current condition. Thanks in advance Jesse

that sucks about the central pillar and the Flavelle Lane, I wouldlike to hear any one elses comments about these routes. How did the North face couloirs look, barren or climable?

ITs Drivable with a H-C 4WD and some skill, the bridge is gone across the river it is however easy to cross, in daylight!!!

all you do to put pictures in your post is go to the gallerey click on your picture, large size, right click on the picture,click on properties, copy the link ends in .jpg go bact to your TR next to the gremlins is a link that says image, click on it paste your copied text from the gallerie into the window, hit ok and your done, repeat as many times as you like, if you have a MAC then I dont know how to do it. J

"We were going to suggest that the bolts be painted or some color added somehow" I think you need to re-think your backcountry ethics, its called leave no trace not spray paint the rock bright red so you know how to get down, its only 5.4 and the natural anchors were fine when I dit it.

I have been rained of this route twice, you defintely want to wait for an extended period of dry weather before attempting it. I also heard you cant park at the parking lot any more, you would have to walk up the hill from Lions Bay, unless it has been recently changed. Considering the thing is an hour or so hike from civilization why would it get a TD?

Above Rugged lake Topping out on the ridge Still along ways away from the face Toby arriving at the face Starting out What happened to the sun The Top Finding the easy gulley Follow the river home

I have 4 inches of suspension lift and 33" tires on a 2 door explorer sport drove every water bar head on didnt scrape once. The less modified truck you have the better your driving skill must be. I doubt my explorer would have come out unscathed with out the mods. but a jeep or the old rangers and toyota short boxes would probably fair pretty good, theres only a couple really bad ones. i dont think a 4 door land cruiser would do too well. pics will be shortly, work is busy right now.

Just a note on the road, its in better condition than two years ago, No bush at all, and it was so bad before that i almost rented a chain saw, a fellow from bivouac.com mentioned that Cerise creek road has worse bush and I agree.

walk left till slabs let you go down towards the trail then walk back to start of climb takes about ten minutes, and you can do it barefoot. Way better than rapping, but i geuss its only two raps down as well. I hate rapping and i always walk if I can. This route is so stellar, the last pitch is hard to start but then its easy and the first pitch has the first bolt waay up there but its easy climbing.

"they fall off when it gets hot. " Thats what I am worried about. Thanks for the info, any one else been up there lately? Really want to minimize my chances of failure on such a stellar weekend.

What about the cornices, has any one seen if those are gone?