jmace

OH man that sucks, I Have to go back to ragz like climbing and R+I ugghh..geuss its good that 25 is my last one in my subscription!!

[img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3056/2942692786_99b9fa9ec4.jpg[/img]

Lesson: leave her at home and come home to a happy ending!

Trip: Morocco-Italy - Date: 9/1/2008 Trip Report: This year I managed to put together another trip to the Dolomites and another motor biking trip this time to Morocco. If your interested the pics are below. Climbing was amazing, we climbed in the Pala region for a week and the Catinaccio region for a week. We did something like 70+ pitches and 6 peaks. The best being the 20 p VI- 600m east face of the Catinaccio. [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3010/2908070011_9710f51a9a.jpg[/img] Dolomite Pics Then we departed and I went to meet my biking friends. We picked up three light weight dirt bikes and went on a non-guided 7 day 2000 km journey through the Atlas Mountains down into the Sahara skirted the Sahara along the Algerian border then back through the Atlas and into Marakech. A most epic time with many crashes and many broken parts. Finally it was time for some rest and we headed to the West coast of Morocco for some surfing. There are pics of the Todra gorge if anyone is planning on climbing there, the routes looked quite nice although close to the road. [img:center]http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3135/2912415777_d71f66451a.jpg[/img] Morocco Pics

Unisys is good, there are so many sites with so much information its hard to say whats the best. I can help you with some specific questions about maps and models but as far as a class goes..well that may be an option in the future but right now I am too busy. This fellow here comes highly recommended, in fact Dave Jones just sent this to me to pass out yesterday. I dont know much about it though. http://www.mountainweatherservices.com/about.html I am leaving for the Dolomites and High Atlas in a few hours but I would be willing to provide some links when I get back in October. For now this link is probaly the best link out there as far as getting a briefing on weather which will allow you to fine tune which maps you look at when visitng the unisys or UW or MM5 sites. http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/sew/gafd/latest_webafd.html and if you like stats you can naviagte through some probabilities here http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/ensemble/index_naefs_e.html Cheers and have a great fall, also the weather forecast for Slesse contrary to EC still looks good for Sunday/Monday

Slesse makes its own weather for sure, Drew is probably right about >30%

Heres my thoughts on the forecast Once the last front passes through tommorrow late day we should start to see some clearing. However we are left with an upper level low, this looks pretty dam dry but essentially keeps it unsettled. Saturday, Mix sun cloud and a slight chance of a shower mainly in the morning is about right. Sunday, originally it appeared as though the ridge would build in Saturday night but now its through the day on Sunday. I cant guarantee there is not a early morning sprinkle or clear skies until Sunday afternoon when the ridge builds in. 40% POP for both days is too high but there has to be a mention of a chance since the upper low is there. Monday looks great now with a weak front arriving late Monday night/Tuesday I think you will begin to see some high cloud late in the day. These upper lows are tough calls and even tougher when your dealing with big peaks like Slesse. Personally I would probably plan on doing it and just make the final call on Saturday. Your right though Sunday/Moday are best looking When using the EC web site 4pm update is based on the 12z model and the 5 am update is the 0z model, the 11am update is just cleaining it up if observations are disagreeing with the forecasts. Good luck and we can have one more look tomorrow Cheers Jesse ps finally a nice looking ridge is being advertised for middle next week so hopefully a return to summer!!!

What you think your skiing this season....hahahahaha, its over boyeee. You will be great at the alpine start though

straight model progs for day 4 and 5 for EC they only deal with day 1 2 and 3 personally

I am a meteorologist The reason EC is not that specific is because they did a survey and found that British Columbians do not use the synopsis section of the web site so they took it down, weird huh. right now its only internal and quite cryptic NOAA has some great discussions that can give you more than what EC has available. EC mets would like provide more info but have their hands tied by the stupid website and govt. if things change I will post here for you Cheers

You have Saturday afternoon and all Sunday..then a weak storm pushes in on Monday.. Friday is rainy and it wont start clearing till Sat in the afternoon..hopefully, that place is a magnet for clouds. Sounds like the glacier is gone, good luck.

you place anchor screws vertically to avoid fractures. Braydon, when placing a screw you chip away the garbage ice so sluff the garbage off that your old pick scar created and fire it in.

ya if your strong enough to somehow place a screw near your weighted pick..

Ya I heard its a crap Barley route.

You wont be able to put a screw in if its too close to your tool cause you wont have the room to twist it in.

I always thought you travelled perpendicular to crevasses ? I will have to re-read my book Glad you guys finally found some ice Cheers

Between the Apron and the Chief there is a new trail if you mean from the first parking lot to Chief trail head then you should park at one of the new upper three lots. there are 4 or more now...and I saw a new site on the Apron Chief trail I saw one BC plate last weekend...and lots of taped up hands climbing on the apron.

Thanks Guys!!!!!!!!!!!!! 275$ for a collapsable jerry can or...26$ for a MSR..now if I turn into a riding fireball im coming after you folks maybe I will double check with CBS cheers

Any one ever tried putting gasoline (auto) into a dromedary ? I need a collapsible jerry can and the ones I have found are $$$ You think the gas would eat through a dromedary meant for water..I read they are super tough ? Thoughts ?

Red Sky in the morning sailors warning Have you tried to do stuff like bend a spoon with your mind or something..maybe you got zapped with special powers..? maybe try "X-Ray vision ON!"

Ya I harvested a sling off it the other day

Jordan knows his stuff, I think we spent a couple months emailing and researching our trip to the Pantheons before we went. Didnt Foweraker fly in and refuse to land and fly back out? Will be a fun area to camp and relax in the mountains though Have fun guys, looks like a nice weather window from Sunday to Thursday/Friday

Oh man those Attache have to be the worst, I have seen at least 4 or 5 worn alarmingly thin. I threw two of them off one of my parnters harness.

Ya will be awesome!! Bring a bug net was quite buggy when I was there

Day 1 is huge..that is wicked you did all three!!!