jmace

I quite enjoy my health care..I pay 0$ a month for full benefits how much do you pay?

Speaking of Fig 17 That is the second time I have heard/read that it is a bad idea to clip the belay as your first piece yet everyone I climb with insists its a good idea.. anyone care to comment on that..??

Saw this on Gravsports www.beverlymountainguides.com/file_download/5/Ice-Climbing-Anchor-Strength.pdf Conclusions: Essentially that Vertical V-threads are stronger than horizontal Vthreads and that 1" tubular webbing also contributes to a stronger thread. I switched to tubular webbing late last year for all my threads, less bulky, easier to tie a knot. However pushing it through the hole is harder. The article also talks about re-boring,and more or less is totally opposite to what I would have suspected with regards to the orientation of the thread. Anyways good stuff

Sumallo is still happening, Graham and I climbed Crunchy Frog today and the ice was totally dry. The other routes all look great, if your still interested in winter.. Crunchy on the left, 3p 4+ we only climbed the first two passed on the 2+ upper pitch. 1 Hour approach, gum boots work for a direct approach or use the log.

If they wanted to do that story they wouldnt ask for video of dramatic rescues. Do you watch TV? AAC studies is not what sells, dramatic rescues of "stupid" people sells, ever watch cops? Ever been in a news room? They arent talking about how they hope there werent any injuries..or mushroom pickers. No pics no video no story!

One reason why this is a good idea?

Post some pics up of Deliverance if you have them, looked like a very cool route.

Saw it on MCR and I was reminded about this post

Paddle in was an hour. Weather was deteriorating ahead of a front which is why I took the day off. Edlinger routes are very worthwhile, not so sure how you would moore a boat on these cliffs? I would be worried about winds pushing the boat into the rocks? We figured an aluminum skiff/car topper with a small engine would be perfect. You could probably spend an hour or so waking down the tracks on the opposite side of the lake and scope the routes. There seemed to be a transport car between Shalalth and Lillooet but I know nothing about it..would be a great way to scope routes. Then again maybe its a private rail car dunno but it made multiple trips. Thanks for all the nice remarks.

Trip: Seton Lake - FA-Piss 'n' Vinegar-450m 4+ Date: 3/13/2009 Trip Report: I generally dont write a TR for ice cragging but these routes deserve some traffic! I think everyone who has thumbed through the west coast ice guide has passed the seton lake section and probably thought those are some cool sounding routes. I actually think Don has under estimated the quality of these lines, these are must do routes and every one is 5 stars. I had been trying to get down the lake for the last few weekends but every time we prepared to leave high winds would be forecast causing us to cancel. Our mode of transportation was a canoe, a rather precarious mode of travel when loaded up with tonnes of gear. Therefore we needed a calm lake and we needed it to be calm all day, so not wanting to fully commit we decided to load up bivy gear as well. All for making a low riding canoe. I spent Thursday working and trying to come up with a wind forecast for Seton lake, once I was convinced it was worth a shot I drove up to Whistler picked up Bruce Kay and we headed to Lillooet for the night. Now there just had to be climbable ice. 4 Pines tried to charge us 80$ so we wandered over to the Mile-0. The next morning we were at the lake before sun up and paddling towards the first set of climbs. What a surreal and somewhat frightening experience, Bruce joked that the life jackets would just prolong our death in the icy lake and possibly a gun would be a wiser choice if we were to capsize. First set of bluffs, left to right Deliverance far left then the unformed Squeal Like a Pig and Fishin Musician Click photos for larger shot Fishin Musician Comedy of errors I missed a shot of but it just looks phenomenal as a narrow alpine couloir!!! Bruce and I had our sights on something larger, the 400m+ flow of Winter Water Sports, which lies further down the lake. Looking at the guide this behind Belmore gully may be the biggest line in the guide? A worthy destination so we pressed on. Water Sports from the Canoe, Ice Capades can be seen at the end, its about an hour canoe ride in calm winds Winter Water Sports on the left fully in to the water, as opposed to the first ascent where they climbed rock for 80 m to reach the ice. The right hand line is the new route Piss n Vinegar and looks discontinuous. We continued on the right on the upper wall in total about 10 pitches. Dock your canoe in a little niche at a single bolt then start climbing, make sure to keep the boat out of the line of fire of ice though. views are unique!! Looking up halfway Crux pitch Lillooet and Seton lake Almost done the route and the photo overload We topped out in a strong wind and with white caps on the lake I wondered if we should descend to a barren cold ledge or camp in the forest and make a fire. We decided to head down and see what happens. Besides the sleeping bags were down there. We were concerned about falling ice in the warm temps so we rapped the vertical forested face to climbers right, and after 8 raps we hit the canoe. I was pretty tired and the hour long paddle home seemed hard on my shoulders. However once we hit the middle of the lake the wind picked up and started broad siding the canoe with waves, this brought renewed power and we bee lined for shore, not the quickest route but having land within swimming distance seemed comforting. The waves were larger here though and as we neared the car the wind started howling, I could see the mist from crashing waves in the parking lot lights being whipped against the truck. Thankfully we were close just another 100 feet but the waves were getting big finally one swamps the canoe Bruce yells and then we slide up on the beach, safe. Then it was beer and a long drive home.. So if your full of Piss n Vinegar there are some great routes available and they come with a most memorable experience just an hours paddle away.. Approach Notes: Notes A Row Boat would be better, The wind forecast is for Lytton which is the windiest place in the interior. Either go dead calm or call Environment Canada for a forecast. You can scope Winter Water from just after the bridge going South before Seton lake boat launch. There is a very high possibility that you could walk to Comedy of Errors et al.

Go to University pound all the teenagers and young college broads you can then afterwards go spend your free time sitting in a tent with the guys for 6 weeks telling stories about all that ass you had. when you hit twenty you have all the time in the world to hit 20 and 30 yr old ass but you only get one shot at young hunnies at college/uni. Otherwise your that old guy pervin out in uni wondering why you spent your youth homo huddling some other dude. Plus if you actually have money you can continue your pillaging of the ladies and climb...I mean its a no brainer!

Olesen Slabs are fun...worth a scratch up before the weekend!! Kevin Mclane was pretty much certain its in...but yup you never know until you go look, its not that long of a walk and the trail is flagged now making for pretty quick work. You are supposed to take Friday off...I just got it covered woohoo!! The long range is not so inspiring..

Havent been..I suspect nothing is available there..go check out Scottish Tale and reprt back. I went up a month or so ago and there was no ice but according to locals its a late former..can be scoped from the second summit above Sunblessed. hasnt been below zero during the day since Jan 03, but cold at night..could be perfect for Scottish Tale..

Scott do those include gas surcharges and tax? I thought I remember a higher price but maybe they got rid of the gas charges

ManClam, Trick Peaks..oh man Robin Tivy has relabelled all of BC.. Nice pics

Good effort, How did the rest of the bridge look? Night N Gale is fat? Any other Lillooet observations? I had a great day poking around Suicide bluffs, quite a bit of fun with plenty of ice for a day of good times and short approaches, Graham posted up at WCI. Tyrolean is all good, but a tad tiring Cheers J

I find it pretty funny when people say its easier to hang onto tools without a leash...I can let go of my tool and still hang on.. anyways this has been argued over and over so its doubtful we will agree..but from a physics stand point I could dangle from my leashes all day long.. good post

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Ya ice conditions make all the difference hey..dinner platey and it feels steep forever, hero ice and you can hang on forever Wonder if anyone else got out for some Sumallo love..sure is a neat venue

I would be highly surprised if Capricorn is in..it gets so much sun did you climb it? how about Jade it also get loads of sun..or are these just the famous drive by its in condition report..??

I wonder if the upper curtain was a 4 for you guys since you had footholds and axe placements pre fabricated for you...its like a beta ascent so a full grade lower seems right Glad you guys got it before the heatwave destroyed it! try smaller pictures that are clickable so it doesnt take so long to load up would be nice Ice till April like last year...looks like it!!

So not wanting to trust the weather Graham and I went back to finish off Landmark Gully yesterday Land Mark Gully on the left and Buzowski Kippan on the right click photos for larger size there is a log across the river, follow our tracks and leave the waders at home, about an hour approach to both routes, travel up the avy path is best Landmark has never had an ascent with the pillar touching down and from what I understand no one has seen the pillar/curtain touch down in the last 30 years. We climbed 6 pitches pitch 1 40m WI3- 2 50m easy snow/ice 3 60m WI3- 4 60m WI4- 5 60m WI2 6 60m WI5- Graham at the Pillar Sneaking behind looking down from pitch 4

I climb all the time..I have a girlfriend I still climb all the time.. I plan my girlfriend time around bad weather..she knows know different so why would she have a problem with it? you see its all about consitency..start lazin around the house and she gets used to you being around and its over.. You can take it further and only plan vacations with her during shoulder seasons, October to December, no ice to wet for rock April-June Alpine is crap and only some routes are dry at the crag its really quite simple

Wow Canadians are just too nice..returning booty.. Anyways good lead boys..and you slept into..good style points