corvallisclimb

jake where is a good place for beta on aid lines at index? harder ones? also wheres your A5 pitch at index... 50 feet of rotten hooking to a string of #0 heads and mabey a tied off blade, bring back new wave to the northwest!

i might be able to help you... send me a pm or something. cjoo1f to bad we didnt have a chance to meet up this past year for a patagonian pub club

this kid is sick... climb A5! nice work Jake!

It is easy class 2/3, but the approach can be hell, I dont know if there is a trail or not. I've never really found one. Except to the base of the sport climbs. Be carfull thought wich way you traverse around the base, at times I found my self doing some chossy exposed 5th class with a heavy ass haul bag trying to pull me off the rock. I really scared my self walking around like that one day. I suggest bushwacking instead of trying to stay on the rock. Mabey send a PM to retired he should have some beta for you.

Our initial plan was to not haul and that Pete would jug with a small pack, with water and pop-tarts. Turns out our pack was a bit heavy and a pain in the ass for Pete to jug with, luckly I had thrown a hauling device in the bag and was able to easily foot haul the pack after my lead. This didnt slow us down and only made it better.

Climb: index-town crier Date of Climb: 8/7/2005 Trip Report: Pete (mtnhigh) and I had been wanting to hook up for some time to do some aid climbing, we finally shared the same free time so we decided to head up to index for town crier. On friday I picked Pete up in portland just in time to fight traffic out of town to start heading up north. A while later we arrived at index to quickly fall asleep aided by a few beers and the erie, horror film sounds of the trains. We awoke a bit later than expected so the plan to do the route faded away after a trip to the store for some coffe. We finally headed up to the base of the route where Pete styled pitch one. I cleaned the pitch then moved the belay and fixed the rope so Pete could practice jugging as this was his first aid climbing experince. He quickly got the hang of it so we both jugged up and Pete again led the 5.9 pitch taking the free portion of the route and leaving the rest of the aid pitches to me. He set the belay on smoke out ledge ready for me to lead off in the morning. We rapped off, left the lines fixed and heded down to the car. I hadnt drank enough water during the day and by this time I was really feeling the effects. I feel asleep quickly and awoke even prior to my alarm going off. We hit the trail by about 6:15, as this was to be my big day of leading I hoped to climb as much as I could in the cool morning temps. I jugged up to the ledge to sort gear, and by the time I was ready Pete was up and ready to give me a belay. Pitch 4 I found to be pretty easy and short, I think I found it to be easier for Pete if I back cleaned every peice in the left hand crack so he didnt have to clean the pitch like a like I belive most people do. Pitch 5 I think took me about 30 min to lead due to all the fixed gear, I think a lot of that fixed gear could be taken out and clean gear could be used, this pitch also turned out to be another quick lead/haul/clean. Some pictures of pitch 5: Pitch 6 was where the action started for us... This pitch was a lot more fun for me than the two below, really awkward aid trying to hold your body out of the flaring cracks. Also it was longer and more varied. The fun all started after the last bolt on the bolt ladder. I had cruised up the bolt ladder finally stopping to clip the last bolt in the ladder before moving on. I eased up in my aiders and noticed the anchors quite a bit out of reach. Hmm thats odd I thought to my self didnt that topo not mention any more free? Well I guess it showed there was a bolt ladder on pitch 5 I never noticed either. So as I thought about what to do I figured I'd look around for more aid options, mabey a hook or something. I eased up high into my aiders to where I got in what appeard to be a solid blue alien. Moved onto that and unclipped from the bolt, I hung around on that for minnute or two while I thought about what to do. I looked down at Pete who was cleaning up the belay getting ready to move out of the heat. I shrugged to my self and again moved up in my steps to hopefully be within reach of the anchors again, nope I was out of luck. So this time I finally decided I might have to step a foot or two out and above my aiders before I could clip the anchors. As I was easing up into the top step holding onto the edged aboved my and all of a sudden POP! There goes my trusty blue ailen. In an instant I reach to grab the rope tied to my harness but as luck would have it I snagged the rope traveling upwards, having back cleaned every peice on the bolt ladder except for the first and the last, there was nothing to pop my hand off the rope. I kept falling and kept holding onto the rope till I finally came to a stop... paralell with the first bolt in the bolt ladder I had fallen about 30 ft in all and slid probably 25 feet down the rope with my hands. So there was a lot of slack in the system, but what aid climber hasnt made that mistake before. Instantly the pain set in, puss began to form on my finger tips. I let out a few yelps and tryed to communicate with Pete about what I should do next... 1. Should I toughen up and finish the pitch with what felt to be a severly fucked up hand. 2. Should I try and build a belay on the bolt ladder and have to coach Pete up his first aid lead to haul my ass out of there. As my luck would have it neither of those had to take place, two guys where in the process of the last pitch of lovin arms heard the sounds of the distress and offerd to rescue my lame ass. The dropped a rope directly to me and I immediatly slapped my jugs on the rope and got my self up the fixed rope. Passed the top of pitch 6 and fixed my lead line and left the haul like. One of the guys graciously rapped down to help Pete haul the last pitch, and the where both quickly out of there. I'd like to send a very big thank you to Joel and your friend you definatly helped me out in a huge way that day, though we could have self rescued, you guys saved us that pain in the ass that I deserved. Pictures of pitch 6: Me in the awkwardness. The two guys rapped off and Pete and I opted to find the walk off. No more than 5 minnutes walking we stumbled accross two jeeps on an off roading adventure up that road, they offerd us a free ride directly to our car, we declined. I think I had used up my free ride for the day. Gear Notes: Nothing special, standard clean aid rack. The biggest peice I used was a #3 camalot once. I think I made 3 cam hook moves total, and didnt need any other hooks. Approach Notes: Easy and enjoyable.

check out the first pitch of barad-dur... looks fun eh?

who gives a damn when you can return every fuckin item you buy!

thanks jon, ive been meaning to resopond to you but have been extremely busy trying to get my life in order. but i will be up in pdx soon mabey i can drop the cds off to you?

is this an easy route to knock out in a day, or do some people fix the day before or bivy on route or something. also how are the crowds on the weekends. thanks

thats exactly what it is, had any one right clicked on the picture they could have found out. thought id post it on here to stir up some sort of discussion. not your average oregon scenery.

do you guys park in the parking lot or on the side of the street? i dont go there often, but when ever i do i park as into the parking lot as i can, to hopefully avoid this from happening.

why?

okay if any one sent me a pm about this do it again...

i was more refering to the fact that people can and will be douche bags

shit like that can happen anywhere...

i will lead both crux pitches... someone?

if i could free climb! i started working another new aid line on the west face of the mud pile. im hopeing to finish it so i can call it "chosstranaut" it consisted of a string tipped out beaks in crumbly rock. even the bolts i figured had to place (to avoid ripping the whole pitch) crumbled a bit. any one wanna have an adventure? heres to new wave smith aid!!

i was thinking "loose hookers"

looking for a partner for the original picnic lunch wall route? any takers?

Climb: smith-FA - aid is aid Date of Climb: 6/25/2005 Trip Report: trying to avoid the crowds i ventured out into the marsupials in search of something interesting to climb with about 5 hours. i climbed what i belive to be a new aid route up the east face of the mudpile. a lot of loose rock and hollow blocks where what i encounterd but i had fun and it never got too sketchy. the start was the most dangerous. if i where to rate it i would assume something like 5.6 A2+ no bolts where placed... now someone tell me if im wrong i thought it might go free at hard 5.11 if you like pulling roofs with loose rocks and bad protection? Gear Notes: cams to 3" x 2 nuts X 2 3 beaks 2 LAs 1 angle hooks - grappling and cliff hanger Approach Notes: somewhere out there

ive done it this time of the year and it is a poop tube

no one? its a pretty cool place

pm me if interested, i need a partner to finish a route that i have some ropes on.