corvallisclimb

This is the thread for anything relevant to the south side route in 2006, so post your TR's, pictures, beta and or route conditions here. I think this will be handy to have all the information in one thread and it will be easy to watch the route progress through out the season. Mods, if you dont like my idea, feel free to delete.

mike try the oregon country fair

hey i see you on the news

no no i just meant a thread for say "south side trs 2006" or something along those lines

Post deleted by corvallisclimb

take off the ?=vo from the end of the image url so its .jpg[/img]

Dude, that's sick! Just kiddin. Must be nesting up there, and you're probably right that it should be closed. yeah, i recomend as a subsitute to

I forgot to mention this before, while leading the last pitch a peregrine falcon was circling around the pillar while getting progressivly more pissed off at me. I wasnt quite sure what to do at that point so I quickly climbed towards the summit. Luckly the peregrine left after about 20 minnutes of this. Anyone experinced this out there? What do you do when this happens? Should it be closed for peregrines?

I was in zion a couple weeks ago and there was a ranger busting people for smoking weed, useing night vision and taking video for evidence. This was on BLM land at the free BLM site outn side of zion aka mosquito cove. He put two guys that where way more unsuspecting looking than us in jail for 5 days because one had a 10 sack and the other had a little pipe.

wow how hard is that?

Ya when we where topping out the finger we where almost getting blown off. Cant wait to get back there.

John- how was the arrowhead?

When is the last time you had or heard about a camalot blowing up or falling apart on anyone? Why would C3s be any different? They are plenty flexible. I had heard about some of the "testers" breaking one or two of theirs. Due to them getting stuck or something along those lines. I can probably find out more.

mark- the 5.7 sounds very cool is it on one of the close formations to steins?

i fiddled with one i found a while ago before it was returned to the owner, i didnt like it at all . tcus are the way to go

I flew to vegas with a sack of weed either mabey I'm both lucky and stuipd. But you should be fine with only climbing gear flying from where ever you are (seattle?) to vegas. Most of the TSA people are fuckin morons. Your probably on a direct flight so I wouldnt worry to much about carrying on stuff with you, incase you bags dont make it. I've only see that being a problem on connection flights. Enjoy your trip I was just down around that area and its very nice right now!

Nice to see those new bolts there, though lots of cleaning up still needs to be done, many holes need to be patched and lots of chopping in order. AFIVE: I've done the variation first pitch before but thats it. I'm intrested in the multi pitch 5.9+ but dont know where it is. now here are some pictures and some action packed video from the climb you can veiw the pictures bigger in my gallery but i think they are to big for the thread... enjoy

Climb: Steins Pillar-NE Face Date of Climb: 3/31/2006 Trip Report: On thursday I was driving up from Denio NV to Burns OR with Jake aka bigwalling after a trip to Utah, when I got the idea to finish of the trip with another summit in Oregon. So we pushed as close to Prineville as possible and slept for the night. An early wake up Friday morning as we still had to drive a ways the the pillar, rack up and do the approach. Finally got the the trail head in a little snow storm but we where set on the summit so we racked up anyways. Slowly it died down and we began the approach, about 45min hike on the trail. Soon at the base and ready to go, I had pitches 1,3,5 Jake had 2 and 4. Pitch 1: I have no idea where the hell the 5.5 rating came from, its more like, as we both agreed unprotected 5.9 moves off the ground to an easy chimney. Belay is on a killer ledge. Pitch 2: Some free moves to aid, where Jake then stickclipped past a loose block to some fixed gear then hooked a little to some more free climbing to another nice small ledge. Pitch 3: A few dicey clean aid placments then to some fixed mank to a little free then to a huge split level ledge. Pitch 4: A short bolt ladder leads (mabey he used a hook or 2) to a tricky face move and mantel onto "the small black knob" Pitch 5: Some of the worst fixed gear I have ever seen(other than 20yr old tent-stakes as pins on the Turkey Monster), pinstacks in old shell drive bolt holes... Tread lightly. I had to pull out the stick clip for a short 6-8ft section where the hooking was too fragile, and the free moves too hard for someone like me. Some more jingus fixed gear to some more clean aid then free to the top. Descent: We did two double rope rappels down the route, from P5 to P3 and P3 to ground. Our ropes got stuck on the first rap holding things up for quite a while as it started to rain/snow again. This put a core shot in the 7mm tag line we had. I might suggest to not use such skinny rope, or rap from P5-P4-P3-ground or something like that. All belays are bomber. For those of you who like Oregon spires, this is cooler and harder than the Monkey Face and easier than the Turkey Monster. Ill post the few picutres I took later today or twmorrow. Gear Notes: small clean aid rack to #2 or #3 cam, offset nuts, lots of tie offs for fixed mank, hooks, few pins and hammer incase some fixed stuff is missing Approach Notes: Good trail, some downed trees from the winter as well as lots of snow and mud.

you are right on about that

Is that punk rock the rock with 2 or so short aid lines on it? If so thats a killer spot up there.

the proper drill for drilling granite would be a rotory hammer drill such as the "bosch anihilator" other than that by hand would be the way to go

Great! another pissed off local

Well it obviously has been cleared since there are not huge trees blocking the road now. You must not read that many oregon climbing publications to not know who Greg Orton is, I wonder who helped publish the information you have on the Hills Creek Spires?