Zoran

Just a slide show about trip and suggestion to you for this Summer. For some reason area is almost abandoned in Summer. Two of us had hut for ourselves last Saturday night. That is relly not fair. Zoran http://www3.telus.net/vazor/Prve%20strane%20galerija/Gandalf/Mt.Gandalf2391mCadwalladerRangeBC.htm

I am not sure... I will go for info from Bivouac. Z

Thank you for the tracks ... We had very hard time to locate culoir to descent, and we took South Ridge. Visibility was 10-20 feet from time to time. Here you are: http://www3.telus.net/vazor/G2/ Sorry for double picture at the beginning and incorrect height. Should be 2896m. I'll correct that latter. Zoran

Blair Mitten: " Squamish River Crossing: I just heard from Jay the ferry operator across the Squamish River. (604-898-9574). The branch road to the river crossing has been gated by the native band adding a portage to any party wanting to use their own craft to cross the river. He now leaves from Brackendale at 0900 and 1600 by reservation. The fee is $35 per person. "

Frank W. Baumann: " Access to Lovely Water spur road: Squamish Nation is planning to build a new longhouse on this road, which will likely result in it being permanently gated. This may start as early as the summer of 2005. In the good old days, we would always take the time to stop and ask the late Fergie Lewis at Cheakamus for permission to cross the reserve land. Some of these common courtesies no longer seem to be observed, which is not helping to maintain a good relationship with some of the First Nations people. Another sore point with them is how fast people drive through Cheekye community on their way to either the Cheakamus or Squamish Valley- there are many children in that community, and so it is important to respect the speed limit; it is not a backroad. "

SN people charge $35 per person to cross the river in their boat (road is gated but they allow access.)

Black Tusk, Wedgemount Lake (Mt. Weart), Mt. Cook, Brew Lake/Brew hut, Mt. Marriot, Mountain Lake hut, Brandywine mtn., Joffre Lakes (Tszil) ...

Maybe it's good to say that book is 42$ CAD and looks like double in size than last one. Lots of info in. Nice guide book. (I like the picture of legendary Fred Beckey and other "ordinary" climbers ...)

Few years ago large group of BCMC and ACC members made it to the Nursery Pass trailhead parking spot. I couldn't believe my eyes when large Jeep in front of us (and our Toyota pick-up) just dissapear in waterbars. We made it there then ...

Congratulations on good climb. Todd you are amazing! I know you are strong and this was easy for you. I hope soon I will do it (when is drier )

Clintoris, you are not reading the post carefully. But, that is OK. This accident hapened last Friday. Climber went to climb the mountain directly from night shift and he didn't even kiss and hug his kids. It's hard to hear stories like this. Make sure you say to your family how much you love them before you go to serious climb.

I like your TR. I hope we will head there soon from Vancouver, BC. Thank you for the pics. Z

Snow was very soft and unstable. Weather was hot, hot, hot ... Plan was to climb North culoir of Tszil but we switched to Slalok. Around 4 PM we decided to return to the lake. It was day trip from Vancouver. We couldn't make it. Descent was "uncomfortable" because of hanging glacier above us. We were unroped to be faster but again we couldn't make it. It's beautiful moderate climb. Highly recomended.

Three members of Search and Rescue team from Vancouver are in critical situation, stranded in bad weather on Mt. Logan. Team of 5 is 3000ft bellow unable to move up and assist the group. Weather is very bad and I hope they have enough equipment and strenght to fight hypotermia. At this moment there are no more details than this.

It will be good to see review here. I have just one question: Sizing? They are marked in US sizing but is it correct comparing to other boots? Reason I am asking is because I have one Scarpa model marked 9 but it's more like 8, and another is "real" 9. MEC will sell them (or selling right now?) It will be soon reviewed by someone. I am positive. looks like Raichle redesigning their line for high altitude climbing.

If you have anybody in Canada maybe you can grab this deal: http://www.radioshack.ca/estore/Product....product=2318294 It's about 30$US. I think price is good. Zoran

I sold mine last year at the MEC Gear swap. I would like to buy Needle 55. I think Needle has better design and material quality. Arcteryx is not making Khamsin 62 model anymore. What do you think about Needle?

For both suggestions you could have hut available. Marriot is my advice too (as Todd says). You won't regret it. Go for Mt. Marriott! Beautiful area and you could be alone pass the hut. Wedge will be harder to do after only a week of mountaineering course. If you can do Marriott in two days, on the way bak home don't pass Sky Pilot. Dru is right that SP is good choice. Sleep in the truck (if you coming with 4x4) and start early. You can do Sky Pilot in a long day.

PETZL / ARC'TERYX 2005 ROC TRIP SQUAMISH BC 06.24 - 06.26 Said Belhaj Harry Berger Katie Brown Mauro Calibani Dave Graham Lynn Hill Joe Kinder James Litz Steve Mc Clure Sean Mc Coll Jérôme Meyer Gérome Pouvreau Lisa Rands Liv Sansoz Chris Sharma Sonnie Trotter Patxi Usobiaga Daniel Woods CLIMBING ACCESS SOCIETY BENEFIT PARTY DJ LAFOUCHE & MORE To benefit the Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia Day 1 Check-in Trail maintenance Dyno comp Trade fair Athlete slide show (TBA) Day 2 Ultimate Route Contest (Elite & Open) Clinics given by top athletes Timmy O'Neill slide show & Party with DJ Lafouche Day 3 Bouldering Fest Clinics given by top athletes Wrap-up & Awards http://www.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/news/squamish/RocTrip_schedule.pdf

Great skiing! Do you think we should take of the CLIMB list everything what is skied in Cascades, Alaska, BC and more (from Denali to Rainier or Everest)? If guys continue like this they will ski Squamish Chief too by the 2010.

I was volunteer last few years. It's always very, very good. Still remember very inspirational slide show from Bubba Blanshard. I am goint to Joffre this weekend and I will miss great show from Peter Croft. Few years ago I missed his show (I remember was near Commercial Dr. and it was sold out). It could be great to see his Sierra alpine Traverse (if he plan to talk about that). Another good event could be about nutrition (again Peter Croft and Jim Whittaker). Z

Mine came with that "goofy" straps. Is there any reason why we can't make this for our Fritschi bindings too:

I didn't go to Caspar Creek. My daughter was little sick. She is better now and we already planning to go to Cerise Hut next weekend. My friends skied Mt. Rohr (near Wendy Thompson hut) and snow was very good. Weather is perfect for some climbs too. Wendy Thompson hut is absolutely OK but not real lodge. To be safe you can always place call and reserve spot. For Cerise hut I think is first come first served. It will be my first time to go to the hut too and I can tell you more soon. Maybe Paul can correct me about reservation for Cerise? Regards, Z

Discussion could continue after reviewing "new" facts in great article published in Gripped magazine. It was hard to read very disturbing stories about Jewish climbers who were forced to put Jewish star as a mark before entering climbing areas. Some of them were murdered in Aushwitz or other death camps. Article: Climbing for Hitler, 1921–1945 by David Chaundy-Smart. I was thinking I know something about climbing history between two wars but I was very wrong. Z

... and if you bring tent as emergency option, maybe you can add overnight trip to nearest area, called Casper Creek. We are supposed to go there this coming weekend. No hut there but people told me it's great area for skiing. I'll update you with some info about snow condition next week, if you like. If you are interested to see few recent pictures from the Wendy Thompson trip last Sunday go here: http://www3.telus.net/vazor/P2/index.htm My apologies for foreign language. Site is for my friends in Europe. Z