Zoran

Three members of Search and Rescue team from Vancouver are in critical situation, stranded in bad weather on Mt. Logan. Team of 5 is 3000ft bellow unable to move up and assist the group. Weather is very bad and I hope they have enough equipment and strenght to fight hypotermia. At this moment there are no more details than this.

It will be good to see review here. I have just one question: Sizing? They are marked in US sizing but is it correct comparing to other boots? Reason I am asking is because I have one Scarpa model marked 9 but it's more like 8, and another is "real" 9. MEC will sell them (or selling right now?) It will be soon reviewed by someone. I am positive. looks like Raichle redesigning their line for high altitude climbing.

If you have anybody in Canada maybe you can grab this deal: http://www.radioshack.ca/estore/Product....product=2318294 It's about 30$US. I think price is good. Zoran

For both suggestions you could have hut available. Marriot is my advice too (as Todd says). You won't regret it. Go for Mt. Marriott! Beautiful area and you could be alone pass the hut. Wedge will be harder to do after only a week of mountaineering course. If you can do Marriott in two days, on the way bak home don't pass Sky Pilot. Dru is right that SP is good choice. Sleep in the truck (if you coming with 4x4) and start early. You can do Sky Pilot in a long day.

PETZL / ARC'TERYX 2005 ROC TRIP SQUAMISH BC 06.24 - 06.26 Said Belhaj Harry Berger Katie Brown Mauro Calibani Dave Graham Lynn Hill Joe Kinder James Litz Steve Mc Clure Sean Mc Coll Jérôme Meyer Gérome Pouvreau Lisa Rands Liv Sansoz Chris Sharma Sonnie Trotter Patxi Usobiaga Daniel Woods CLIMBING ACCESS SOCIETY BENEFIT PARTY DJ LAFOUCHE & MORE To benefit the Climbers' Access Society of British Columbia Day 1 Check-in Trail maintenance Dyno comp Trade fair Athlete slide show (TBA) Day 2 Ultimate Route Contest (Elite & Open) Clinics given by top athletes Timmy O'Neill slide show & Party with DJ Lafouche Day 3 Bouldering Fest Clinics given by top athletes Wrap-up & Awards http://www.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/news/squamish/RocTrip_schedule.pdf

Great skiing! Do you think we should take of the CLIMB list everything what is skied in Cascades, Alaska, BC and more (from Denali to Rainier or Everest)? If guys continue like this they will ski Squamish Chief too by the 2010.

I was volunteer last few years. It's always very, very good. Still remember very inspirational slide show from Bubba Blanshard. I am goint to Joffre this weekend and I will miss great show from Peter Croft. Few years ago I missed his show (I remember was near Commercial Dr. and it was sold out). It could be great to see his Sierra alpine Traverse (if he plan to talk about that). Another good event could be about nutrition (again Peter Croft and Jim Whittaker). Z

Mine came with that "goofy" straps. Is there any reason why we can't make this for our Fritschi bindings too:

I didn't go to Caspar Creek. My daughter was little sick. She is better now and we already planning to go to Cerise Hut next weekend. My friends skied Mt. Rohr (near Wendy Thompson hut) and snow was very good. Weather is perfect for some climbs too. Wendy Thompson hut is absolutely OK but not real lodge. To be safe you can always place call and reserve spot. For Cerise hut I think is first come first served. It will be my first time to go to the hut too and I can tell you more soon. Maybe Paul can correct me about reservation for Cerise? Regards, Z

Discussion could continue after reviewing "new" facts in great article published in Gripped magazine. It was hard to read very disturbing stories about Jewish climbers who were forced to put Jewish star as a mark before entering climbing areas. Some of them were murdered in Aushwitz or other death camps. Article: Climbing for Hitler, 1921–1945 by David Chaundy-Smart. I was thinking I know something about climbing history between two wars but I was very wrong. Z

... and if you bring tent as emergency option, maybe you can add overnight trip to nearest area, called Casper Creek. We are supposed to go there this coming weekend. No hut there but people told me it's great area for skiing. I'll update you with some info about snow condition next week, if you like. If you are interested to see few recent pictures from the Wendy Thompson trip last Sunday go here: http://www3.telus.net/vazor/P2/index.htm My apologies for foreign language. Site is for my friends in Europe. Z

Soap opera continues! After detailed description what they missed to send in the package, I got this in my mai today: http://xs.to/xs.php?h=xs16&d=05073&f=Insoles.jpg Two left insoles! Instead of this: GARMONT ISO alpine sole The GARMONT ISO alpine sole conforms to the ISO alpine norm and is compatible with all alpine bindings. The soles fit snugly into place, anchored by 11 Phillips-head screws. It will be interesting to see when all this will be over!? Z

I was last Sunday in Wendy Thompson hut (ACC Whistler Section). It was 10in of fresh snow there. You will love it. Maybe you can combine two close huts around Whistler/Pemberton for seven days? Regards, Zoran

Explore Magazine published report on Intrawest plan to build huts there. Can anybody can give more info/comment about that? http://www.explore-mag.com/magazine.htm Regards, Zoran

It's old discussion Jordon started but if you don't mind I will refresh it with my experience. I was looking for new Dynafit AERO boots for ski touring/free ride and Cham3s had the best deal of 309 Euros ($498CAD) + shipping of 38 Euros + Canadian Customs. I estimated they could be just bellow $600 CAD. At MEC they were expecting them on November 22nd for $728 CAD + PST/GST. Others didn't have the boots or some have them for 369 Euros + shipping to Canada (like Barrabes but free shipping to USA, etc). After I heard that MEC cancelled AERO order for this season I gambled and ordered the boots size 26. My idea was to try them at MEC and order them on line. I have wide, short feet size 7.5/8 (26) with short toes. MEC technicians recommended AERO or Garmont Adrenalin. Adrenalin is $799 CAD + PST/GST (total is $911 CAD) and I found that sum outrageous. So, I gambled and ordered something I haven’t even try, on November 24th, 2004. Cham3s billed me on November 25th. That was fast! Way points: Mid December: I mailed and ask how they doing and they told me that they expect boots in mid December. End of December: Boots size 26 didn't arrive from Rossignol yet but they will be there soon. Shipping will be in first week of January. Mid January: They apologize because they don't have size 26 and walking mechanism on all boots is very bad. At the meantime you can still order size 26 on their site?! Even now: http://www.cham3s.com/gb/default.asp They offered Dynafit TLT4 Pro TF for 259 Euros ($416 CAD) and free shipping. Price was good but I have Fritschi bindings and solution was bad. Life-Link sells same boot for $524.95 USD ($655CAD) + shipping to Canada (I am not sure?) They lowered Garmont Adrenalin to 309 Euros and I asked for size 26. They sent me boots by FedEx and I got them in 48 hours. Shipping for free and they put 38 Euros back to my credit card account. If you don't know Canada doesn't have duties on ski boots and I had only taxes on them ($77.19 CAD). Final price for Garmont Adrenalin was $573.58 CAD. It was saving of $337 comparing with purchase in MEC. Now it's time for other issues: They sent BRAND NEW boots but not in original Garmont box and they put BEAL chalk bag as a present (11 Euros/$17CAD). It was nice gesture, but they didn't give me Alpine ISO sole from Garmont?! Adrenalin has exchangeable soles. So I mailed to them and they sent me this e-mail: ... "Bonjour, We haven send your soles this afetermoon Sorry Best regards" ... I hope this doesn’t mean: "... we haven't send ..." and "...aftermoon..." means next month! I am joking! In general, I am happy because weather was bad here (for skiing). I am satisfied with price and I think price at MEC should be the same as I got. This year price of boots at MEC are more than joke. I hope person who order gear make deal with gear manufacturers directly, not through distributors. Can you imagine yourself sitting in the office, chatting with Dynafit/Millet/Fritschi/Camp, etc. making sweet deals, have your orders sold before it's put on the shelves and being paid for that!? I forgot to mention that I really like MEC. It's my favourite store. After I got my boots I moulded my liners there. Service was exceptional. It was really great to talk to Steven about Denali, Foraker, Rainier and Mt Washington (NH) while he was working on the boots. Great personality! MEC has the best floor staff you can find around. Period! Cheers, Zoran

For some reason I felt you didn't read the book. My apologies. I think he was not in control of his life at that moment. It was hard for anybody to be independent or different at that time. One part of my life I was not different than others and I was following the crowd. That is very common in countries without Western democracy and in times of political turmoils. He dedicated part of the book talking about relationship with Leni and Hitler. Anderl was not very proud of that part of his life but many admit he lived very fascinating mountaineering life. Messner was influenced with Anderl's climbs a lot. He is not ashamed of Anderl's life and "colaboration" with Hitler. He looked deeper in Anderl's personality to bild own. In addition, Harrer's book influenced generations of mountaineers after WWII even tough he raised his arm to support Hitler. It's very hard to understand all facts, especially from Canadian point of view where all things must make sense. I personally changed many of my views radically when I came to Vancouver. Z

Dru, If you have time come to Vancouver or Burnaby Public Library and grab: Anderl Heckmair : My life : Eiger North Face, Grandes Jorasses & other adventures / foreword by Reinhold Messner ; translated by Tim Carruthers. You will be suprised with climbs and stories. One stunned me the most and it's about climbing route in Swiss Alps where 4-5 first ascent parties were killed. He and his partner climbed route reaching dead climbers on the way up to the exit. They passed all of them and finished the route. Latter they went to the city major and ask him to finance their second climb where they will recover all bodies from the mountain, but officials refused an offer. I am positive you will like the book. Z

O, give him a break. I called the store and person who answered was so happy and full of energy. He said that they just came back from Salt Lake City show and they got some very good comments from distributors. Garments will be sold in Valhalla Pure. I am glad that we have more options here in Vancouver. We all will benefit from that eventually. If you ever visited Navarrogear, Sugoi, ROI, Arcteryx and MEC sale you know what I mean. We all know what we need even before we read about the gear or clothes. Most of the time price play the biggest role. If you know that you need Shoeller jacket you have choice to buy Serendipity from there: http://www.sierratradingpost.com/xq/asp/base_no.42542/dept_id./qx/product.htm Or to buy it from ROI for $40 CAD. Idea is to buy good stuff cheap. Isn't it? Maybe they will have sale next year too. Who knows. Z

I like your idea to spend night there. I am from BC and we have several small cabins/shelters/huts around the Vancouver. Do you have more huts/shelters like this opened during the winter/spring? This shelter is beautiful. Please give me some ideas for similar overnight trips. Regards, Z

Nice! Big picture clogged our E-10 line at work. Z

Excellent! Some of us tought nothing is available because was warm in the city. They were wrong. You did great work. I see that you like to climb in any conditions, instead sitting at home and crying to friends that season is over. Thank you for the report.

Camilo, Do you have DSP Standard or Advanced? I use F1 but it's not mine. If I have enough money I will go for DSP for sure, not for Barryvox. It's amazing how Pieps designed multiple burials search. Now you just have to became an expert and save your partners in difficult times. I hope you will never experience that but ... Z

Last shopping at Costco I picked bottle for water cooler. At home we realized that is leaking. There was small hole I duct taped, instead of taking bootle back.

MEC is not selling Deuter bags. I'll ask him where he purchased bag. Z

My friend got Deuter PlusOne for $75CDN last November. He never tested bag. Didn't have chance but looks very small and light. I'll ask him to post review next season. Zoran http://www.deuter.com/cms/front_content....2d77366c8ab4b54