KaskadskyjKozak

Trip: Chair Peak - N Face Date: 2/20/2010 Trip Report: My partners mkporwit, CS, and SR met at the Eastgate P&R at the ungodly hour of 4 am to try and beat the crowds the surely must be descending on Chair Peak on a glorious Sat. We succeeded; we were the first team on the route. Unfortunately this plan backfired in that we had to deal with the sugar snow coating a lot of the ice. We had two rope teams. SR and I led pitch one. We got to the pitch by traversing right above a snow bridge crossing the moat. I am not sure if this is the "traditional" start of the pitch or not. We found the ice to be aerated and interspersed with loose stuff all day. Most ice screw and picket placements seemed suspect and anxiety levels were consequently high. Pitch 1: I used 4 ice screws. I set up a belay with 2 pickets and tool. Maybe 3/4 rope length. Pitch 2: My partner used 3 screws and a picket. We stayed middle right. Full rope length. Pitch 3: I girth hitched a couple trees, placed a green alien, and at least one screw. Belayed from a tree. Full rope length. Pitch 4: Just deep snow. Very short. I had pitons and nuts and never used them. Descent: downclimbed to equalized-piton-rappel station. Single rope rappel partially down gully. Downclimbed the rest (sugar snow). Approaching the moat: Upper half of pitch 3: View down from belay at top of pitch 3. Not climbers on route: If you stayed home today you are insane! Gear Notes: 4 pickets, 6 screws, green alien, double runners. Approach Notes: Icy in the morning, soft crud on the descent.

sprayers on top. kevboner below.

how short? i'm thinking of headed up there but only have a bunch of 16cm screws

how many screws did you need?

why is that? because you keep posting that photo of boner

will gold flakes help your shit not to stink?

It will never die. Just get that fact straight in your head now, and you will not worry so much in the future. BTW, take a looksie around a lift served ski area (Except for alta, or others that do not allow SB) and you might be shocked to realize that there actually are more people on snowboards than skis these days. unfortunately...

It would seem that you don't join the Spray forum much because you can't keep up, period. Unlike Tvash, many of us have jobs. And wit aside, we also often express political opinions that would not be looked on favorably by existing or potential employers. I've protected the identity of people I've vehemently disagreed with on this board because exposing them could mean a smackdown from their commanding officer. If Spray offers an (almost) consequence-free romper room for borderline psychotics, a sounding board for undigested opinions and ideas, or a place to pin up nasty pictures of Pamela Anderson without regard for your real life, job, family, googleprobe, then who cares? If maintaining privacy and people's freedom to speak their minds by protecting identities scares you, why don't you run back to the other DOZEN forums on this site where nobody gives a fuck?

I bet you do.

Lick sack.

Huh????? WTF happened? This came out of nowhere...

I am so jealous!

I ran up Eldorado first week of June last year and it was fine. I'd suspect a late May trip would be totally a go this year (as long was we don't have crazy record snowfall in the next 6-8 weeks)

Die, fatty!

this site has a moderator?

Anything fed to laboratory rats in significant quantities will cause cancer.

That as well as this: http://slum.dyndns.org:8090/plots/plots.html Check out the Alpental plot at 5400 elevation level. Temps have been well below freezing a lot up there.

Where else can you buy a $40 pup tent which is functionally equivalent to a Hilleberg?

I had been studying telemetry data which put temps between 25 and 30 degrees at that elevation. Still, the NF was the better bet. There is still time for that one this year, fortunately. :-)

Who dat?

Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress Date: 2/9/2010 Trip Report: A few friends and I took the day off to climb Chair Peak after reading all the great recent TRs about it. We opted to try the NE Buttress, rather than the North Face, however, which was apparently a mistake. The approach: The first pitch was a bit spicy with some runout and poor ice quality and protection. I was able to sink a picket, clip the rap anchor, place one screw, an alien, and tie off a dead log. Spin drift was wicket and I was completely covered in snow and ice particles as I got to the belay tree swearing in a manner that makes Ivan's cc.com TR's seem G-rated. The first pitch: The second pitch was more straightforward, although the snow quality was still not good. We went over a bump which turned out to be a snow covered bunch of short trees and rocks and set up a belay at a rock maybe 100 feet E of the ice waterfall. My friend CF attempted to lead the ice waterfall (we had two teams of two) when I arrived. The traverse was gnarly to the waterfall, and the quality of ice on the waterfall not good. CF was not able to get off the deck due to lack of footholds. He also was not that happy with the two ice screw placements he put in at ground level. After 20 minutes of thrashing it was apparent that he couldn't pull it off, and it was unlikely I or the two newbs we were ropegunning would. We decided to call it a day. The downclimb to the rappel anchor sucked, and we were all shivering cold by the time we got the double rope rappel all set up. By this time our bluebird skies were turning gray as well (1:30 pm). Hike out was pretty mellow. View from high on the route: Gear Notes: 4 pickets, 3-4 ice screws, green alien, 2 ice tools (no ice axe).

okay, apples to apples then... how much fuel was wasted on obama's bullshit flight compared to this bullshit flight? Two wrongs don't make a right.

NWHikers is the shit though

you should go ice climbing with him