TrogdortheBurninator

this might be obvious... "carbon fiber" ice tools are actually a composite of carbon fiber and some plastic (typically epoxy). Was the chip just in the epoxy, or was there fiber damage? Either way, I wouldnt worry too much. If fibers are exposed, you might consider coating the chip with some epoxy to prevent water damage. By many measures of durability, carbon composites far exceed aluminum. However, carbon fibers are brittle, so they will chip.

That sure doesnt look like the polish route.

Great stuff Dane, some stories and more old photos would be great. I often feel that one thin cc.com lacks compared to supertopo is the old stories of FAs and early repeats of classic routes. Would be great to see more and more old photos and stories as we enter the rainy season.

Mugs Stump, Paul Aubrey - Moonflower Buttress

I recommend we improve on nature a bit. forwards, not backwards....

polls are based on "likely" voters

Nice. Kudos on the bolt replacement!

Link?

colfax might be in in october. I bet last years heavy snow will make for some nice fall alpine ice right now.

when it has come up, a large percentage of climbers i've met in the backcountry either read or participate on CC.com, similar with winter climbing (ice/alpine). rock cragging, far less so.

.75-2 (ideally add on a .5)

nice work. is this the 2nd ascent?

I also dont think they had anything special at any of the trade shows. Except maybe an upper rest thingy.

rappelling (standard descent) silent running takes two ropes. I think there is a mystery down climb also, but I have no idea where it goes.

silent running in darrington. fault - catapult - canary on castle rock in LW Orbit in LW (prob better with single set than outerspace, although you still have to build belays, which takes gear.)

everest kitchen (indian, tibetan, nepalese) in lake city = good

ur scienctifik methods r sound. Kan i taech thm in my sciense clas? They shood fiht real nice after lessuhns on creashunism.

-Obama oh no, the horror.

It forms a huge tongue of ice at the top in winter.

Hi Mark, I believe I saw you on saturday in the bluffs. I thought I recognized you from the WCC slide show you gave last year (??). Apparently you guys just made the wrong choice of routes. We climbed nothing but short approach 5 star (bourdon) moderate routes all weekend and waited in line only once. Mosquito - 10 min wait Phlegmish dance - 0 min wait Wonderland - 0 min wait Neat and cool - 0 min wait (entire crag was empty after we finished) Exasperator - 0 min wait Seasoned in the Sun - 0 min wait (well except for the rain squall we let pass) Merci Me - 0 min wait - we bailed cause of wetness Peasants route - 0 min wait - wet at start Centerfold - 0 min wait I think we just got very lucky with crowds.

What are your credentials again? Oh, I'm just a professional masturbater. As most graduate students in exercise science are.... Guess I just assumed somebody with "credentials" wouldn't spend so much time seeking exercise and PT advice from a climbing forum.

What are your credentials again?

I think the Pilan choice is pretty damn interesting from a strategy standpoint. It is analagous to final jeopardy. Often situations arise where playing safe guarantees a loss, while a big gamble might result in a bigger loss, but also gives a chance for victory. Given the choice between a guaranteed loss, and a chance of victory, you have to gamble for victory (duh). I suspect the McCain campaign acknowledged that a more conventional GOP running mate would virtually guarantee his loss. Pilan could very well make that loss bigger (hopefully ), but it might be the best chance he has to build excitement around an otherwise comparatively dull campaign.

http://vpilf.com/