TrogdortheBurninator

I didn't mean to imply all of it. All I know about recent development in LW comes from guidebook dates on moderate climbs. I've noticed a lot of 10- bolted slabs in the canyon, many of which lack specific character. Maybe contrived is the wrong word, but I really dont think bolting another one of these slabs is the best direction for the canyon. Obviously living there you have a much better perspective than me and I'd be interested to hear what direction you have seen the icicle going.

All this spraydrizzle is fa shizzle.

Although I'm a relative newbie, I would agree that new route develpoment in LW has been heavily contrived. Based on your description, it would seem highly appropriate to find/contact the FA and ask what the F*** they were thinking. If their response doesn't jive, ask them about removing some/all of the bolts. It would seem that a route such as this is probably a misplaced application of unsolicited vigilante actions. I'd be interested in knowing what route it is.

post moved

In LW, or any area with rich traditional history and/or quality rock, I feel that ethically speaking the FA should have strived to use protectable features in place of bolts. That said, comfort level is highly subjective, and perhaps the FA wanted to create a route for the masses. If this thing can be sewn up with gear, or at least well protected at the cruxes, the bolts are probably superflous and my gut would be they should be removed with proper consent. I take it this particular crag/route has little historical significance, and the following points merely provide some perspective: You say (maybe hypothetically ) that you lead the route clean. Was the route at your limit? If it were at you're limit, do you think all of the bolts would still have been unnecessary? If it were you're first forray (sp?) in to a new grade, how many bolts would have been unnecessary based on tricky pro etc? I would assume the FA made a judgement on this (possibly a poor one), and deemed the route would offer more as a sport climb. I feel that there is little place for overbolted sport routes at established traditional crags in LW; however, some new sport climbing development on new crags does serve to broaden the available climbing experiences. Take rattlesnake rock for example (I haven't been there). My understanding is the climbing is unique and high quality. I would guess there are occasional features that could be naturally protected, but they are ignored for convenience or safety or whatever. PS, I like to sport climb with some frequency and have never once skipped the convenience of a good bolt in favor of gear.

Josh, Did you have the Zenix or Zenix IQ. I have the Zenix, and while bright on full charge, the beam becomes far less useable when the batteries get low. Supposedly the newer hyberbrights have fixed this. Has that been your experience?

He had like 50+ people from the crowd rush the stage and dance and cause general ruckus.

Did anybody else see Iggy Pop tonight; that was pretty out of control for such a large show.

This is freaking incredible. Gotta be one of the most significant climbs done in the cascades in a long time. Congratulations!

maybe because it looks like this

down Canary That is pretty amzing in my book.

That'll teach those candians to show their colours around here.

I think the commment is on the tendency of american politicians and media to liken "lesser" domestic tragedies to "greater" international tragedies, particularly those in non-western nations. I honestly beleive Katrina deserves every minute of airtime it receives; however, I do not beleive it is necessary to liken this tragedy to the recent Tsunami. I had the same sentiment hearing 9-11 likened to Hiroshima. The magnitudes simply do not compare and it cheapens the lives of others to pretend they do.

I had the same exact thought hearing some poltician on the news saying "This is our tsunami." This hurricane is very sad. The advanced warning all of the decesed had only makes the situation worse. Nonetheless the Tsunami killed entire villages in a single sweep. THis really doesnt even compare.

****POP QUIZ***** Without going back to the first page, whoe remembers what the original post asks?

One word. Teflon! How does Teflon to stick to the pan? sintering

I stared at the 10a chimney for a while, trying to figure out how it got so clean. Does it really get climbed that often, it looks heinous. Maybe it is just more sheltered and grows less lichen, I dont know.

I think we did an A/B combination. After starting up the well buffed rap route, I made a face move left and realized what I thought were thin cracks were actually just folds. The climbing didnt look hard, but it did look scary. Instead, we moved right for a few moves, then back across fun flakes into this awesome dihedral and finally the offwidth. Kind of funny how both options go from dihedral to offwidth, makes relying on written descriptions kind of a bitch. It is pretty cool how many different moderate lines are possible on this route.

If you go one or the other, I'd agree with Sobo that crampons are the better option. However you better be damn comfortable on steepish semi-exposed glacial ice if you make that choice. Maybe it would have been better with boots, but in sneakers I felt axe and crampons were absolutely necessary to maintain any degree of comfort. I would have probably turned around if I saved weight leaving either in the car as we had discussed the previous night.

I would not have been caught dead on the glacier 1.5 weeks ago without an axe and crampons. I suppose you could make do with instep crampons, but I would want some 10 points. Read the recent TRs for more.

Amatuers... Excel can do almost any fit you can imagine (linear and non linear) if you just make use of the linear regression add on and define you own variables for the regression.

nice Kurt!

On the last pitch, did you climb the left side corner with sustained looking hard to protect wide crack, or the right chimney/corner with chockstones and other marginal pro goodness (both ending at the summit rap anchor I think). I climbed the right chimney off width and thought it was probably one of the hardest 5.8s i'd ever been on (felt way harder and more sustained and different than P1 lizard). Left side looked easier but very difficult if not impossible to protect without big gear. Also I managed to climb a very 5.8 feeling move on the first pitch of the NF proper when I started up and left (sort of per Kearney I think), but was then forced back right via a single tricky move. I would agree that the 2nd pitch face proper was super fun lie backs and hand jams. Very good route aside from the sandy 2nd-3rd class bits.

Step it up to Factors and watch that Troggle make you his bitch.

Obviously the apple IIe was too advanced for you. Next you are going to try and tell me that Java is more powerful than Logowriter.