TrogdortheBurninator

Although even 10,000 to 20,000 years seems like a surprisingly short time scale for these type of phenomena

probably release of stress, and probably a result of the ratio of the storage and loss modulii, not just the elastic modulus which would assume a hookean type solid incapable of stress relaxation

if pressure = density * gravity * depth, then maybe

Now that I think about it, I guess I read this in a magazine. Anyhow, I thought that the rockfall was occuring after heavy rain, not during. This would be more akin to going to bed in a downpour and awaking to a beautiful morning, and being forced with a decision as to whether this type of rockfall would be a concern.

I feel incredibly bad for the friends and families of those involved in the accident, and don't feel it is respectful to include a question in that thread. Instead I will pose it separately. Rockfall is one of those things that always scares the crap out of me in the mountains. While party inflicted rockfall can be minimized by experience, natural rockfall will occur regardless. I recently watched a program on discovery on waste water induced rockfall in yosemite, where it specified that hydrostatic pressure from water was the major cause of natural large scale rockfall. Obviously melt freeze is a major concern for rockfall in the mountains, but how much consideration do the more experienced mountaineers here give to precipitation when assessing objective rockfall risk. What might be tell tale signs that this is a concern? I am not speculating what may have caused the rockfall in the accident. I am merely looking for suggestions so that I may make more informed decisions in the future. I really hope this doesn't appear insensitive.

Just read another update on seattle times that makes it sound like only two actually fell in the crevasse and the other two held it. They also disclosed names etc.

Short roping seems to be the norm with RMI due to the large experience gradient between clients and guides. Still it must have been a very wide crevasse to span even a short roped 4 person team. Just glad the injuries aren't more serious.

I know somebody wants to climb

The BD pack they had today looks like a pretty nice deal.

Anyone up for E38 or Index this evening? Will lead or follow. I am in Renton until ~4:00. I have a car, rack, rope, etc. Live in Ballard, so will be heading there afterwards. Can meet at convenient spot along the way, or can meet at crag. PM or email - killgoj at u dot washington dot edu

Easy simuling with one obvious 5.6 crux that you may or may not want to belay. We climbed it on a folded 60m half rope in probably 3 or 4 simul pitches. We climbed torment first and had half a dozen medium to large nuts and I think single camalots .5-1. This seemed sufficient as the crux is pretty short (also has fixed pin)and other than that you don't need much pro.

http://www.rei.com/product/47806520.htm?vcat=REI_SSHP_CLIMBING_TOC Not the outlet, only one size left. Theyve been on sale for a couple weeks at this price, before that they were $40.

My Cat Hates All of You

65m is an odd lenght, 50m or 60m is standard with 70m filling certain nches. If you are interested primarily in alpine routes as you indicated, something smaller diamter <9.8mm will be lighter wight. Otherwise, thicker (10.2-10.5mm) will be more durable. I have a couple blue water ropes that I really like the feel of. I also have a cheapo lanex rope (9.8mm) that has held up great. Focus more on weight, diameter, features (dry, bicolor, etc before brand). You're budget will dictate brand, although in general I feel more expensive ropes do handle better, but their cost difference is not representative of performance difference.

Better yet, what is the mellowest snow/glacier climb in a nice area (east slope for weather) that is a little more remote than adams/st helens?

How mellow is the Lyman glacier on Chiwawa, Becky says grade I-II. Is there any exposure or does it stay friendly the whole way. Would anyone recommend this?

How many windshirts are necessary for this climb? Was thinking about taking the lady up Sahale this weekend, however I'm obviously a little worried about permits. Assuming we can't get a permit for Sahale, are there any other recommended easy snow climbs that would make a good back up (something on 20 or cascade river rd)? The goal is something on snow with fairly trivial glacier crossing. Preferably not to steep, with minimal exposure (i know sahale has some scrambling at the top, but we are ready to turn round there if she's not up for it). Great views are a must. Have all three days available, but don't want anything too remote.

I used to ride some, and always had great luck swapping around parts using sites like MTBR and Ebay. My guess is if the two forks are fairly close in retail value, you can probably just post yours for sale and buy what you want with the proceeds (+ maybe a little $$)

I was playing around with MS streets and trips and my GPS a few months back while driving to leavenworth, and while it knew practically none of the I-90, Blewett Pass, or Enchantment peaks, it did have the snow creek wall. Go figure.

Bearshark

Freedom of the Hills - covers everything you want. for a beginner, FOTH is all you need. other books just give more depth/different perspectives. How to Rock Climb (John Long) Knots for Climbers Traditional Lead Climbing: Surviving the Learning Years Climbing Anchors Accidents in North American Mountaineering

That makes more sense. So it is not a recurring theme, merely an isolated set of cases?

I guess reading the document, it sounded like these were new routes being put up with non-standard hardware. Rusty bolts on old routes are generally a good motivation to get focused. Shiny bolts on new routes should be as reliable as the rock allows.

What is the deal with the Bolts disclaimer? Are these bolts actually less safe vs. standard modern fare, given the loads exhibited in a lead fall? If they are less safe, it seems irresponsible to use them, especially if they look like standard 3/8" to the common looker. I have never placed a bolt, and generally clip bolts on modern routes with confidence, however this type of practice seems strange. Maybe the disclaimer is just for legal protection, although it seems that if the bolts are generally acceptable, a more blanket statement applying to all fixed pro is more suitable. These statements are common in many guidebooks, suggesting that all fixed pro be inspected thoroughly (although I don't think anyone does this on modern sport climbs). Maybe Dallas or someone familiar with route developing could chime in about this.

Anybody been up on Dragontail (Serpentine) in the last week or so? Wondering how much snow there is, and what the descent was like. Would you recommend 0, 1, or 2 axes per team? What about mountaineering boots and crampons, vs approach shoes?