TrogdortheBurninator

These are the new Petzl screws with rotating hangers. retail is $60. The have sizes 13, 17, and 21cm available. This is an awesome deal imo. http://www.ems.com/products/product_deta...D=1121957709332

I also saw the Dog at the trailhead. Kind of a funny side note on that.... In the parking lot, someone told the Dog's owners that they should watch out for rangers because they couldn't have dogs in the national park. I said that WA pass is well outside the park, but I wasn't sure if there was a restriction on dogs. The group with the dog left and went hiking up the trail, while the guy who gave the warning (maybe one of you guys??) told us that last time he saw a dog up there, it was chasing goats all around. Apparently the goats aren't taking that anymore. The dog was really cool and super friendly at the parking lot. Hopefully it was OK, and hopefully next time the owners don't leave the dog offleash in an area like that. BTW, nice work on the route. Those Boving roofs look amazing to me.

Met some friendly people, listened to blood curdling screams, and observed numerous shenanigans (while partaking breifly in our own rappeling fun) at WA-Pass while enjoying some nice easy climbing. Weather and views were perfect on account of the previous days rain followed by the complete absence of clouds.

Anybody have a good topo for the N. Face of burgundy. I hear the becky topo is flawed, and nelson is basically non existant. I heard Burdo had a good one, but it is out of print. PM if you have one you can scan/photo.

Luucky

old style #3 camalots for $42 now.

Have you done the N. Face, how does this route compare?

LW is pretty fun too. One of my friends made me skate it with him in exchange for coming climbing.

noo, 9 seconds no good and its time to go home. Maybe in another 7 years when I decide to play this game

You guys are all losing

this is what 4:30 looks like

...2,1 go 16sec

I would think <5.7 or <5.8, you will still have a great trip. The only route I climbed that seemed noticeably soft was Klahanie, although it is exceptional at any grade. Cat crack felt like solid 5.6 to me. Penny lane felt on par with icicle 5.9s. If you spend time in the bluffs, you can always join the masses and toperope routes that you are afraid to lead. That way you can sample the harder grades and see if you are up for them.

so they are not normalized as in force per area and elongation per unit length?

I suppose the only resolution is to ask Cowboy Curtis what he thinks.

I am just a nerd who has crapped his own thread for the sake of interesting science speculation.

good point, although it seems a more likely mechanism would have to do with some critical flaw size and flaw growth. However, I know nothing about geology and this is pure speculation.

Although even 10,000 to 20,000 years seems like a surprisingly short time scale for these type of phenomena

probably release of stress, and probably a result of the ratio of the storage and loss modulii, not just the elastic modulus which would assume a hookean type solid incapable of stress relaxation

if pressure = density * gravity * depth, then maybe

Now that I think about it, I guess I read this in a magazine. Anyhow, I thought that the rockfall was occuring after heavy rain, not during. This would be more akin to going to bed in a downpour and awaking to a beautiful morning, and being forced with a decision as to whether this type of rockfall would be a concern.

I feel incredibly bad for the friends and families of those involved in the accident, and don't feel it is respectful to include a question in that thread. Instead I will pose it separately. Rockfall is one of those things that always scares the crap out of me in the mountains. While party inflicted rockfall can be minimized by experience, natural rockfall will occur regardless. I recently watched a program on discovery on waste water induced rockfall in yosemite, where it specified that hydrostatic pressure from water was the major cause of natural large scale rockfall. Obviously melt freeze is a major concern for rockfall in the mountains, but how much consideration do the more experienced mountaineers here give to precipitation when assessing objective rockfall risk. What might be tell tale signs that this is a concern? I am not speculating what may have caused the rockfall in the accident. I am merely looking for suggestions so that I may make more informed decisions in the future. I really hope this doesn't appear insensitive.

Just read another update on seattle times that makes it sound like only two actually fell in the crevasse and the other two held it. They also disclosed names etc.

Short roping seems to be the norm with RMI due to the large experience gradient between clients and guides. Still it must have been a very wide crevasse to span even a short roped 4 person team. Just glad the injuries aren't more serious.

I know somebody wants to climb